Ryze

Whats the possibility of lifting the TVS off the intake manifold under full boost???
Bolted down for sure. Seeing 18psi MAX on a 80 degree day. IAT 130ish under WOT..~1000 ft about sea level. Boost does flutter a little during WOT, also boost doesn't build as fast as I would assume..

The reason why I ask.
Under WOT, I get random AFR's... earlier today 10:1 AFR under WOT, coming home almost 12:1AFR, no change in tune. Temp changed maybe 10-15 degrees..

Seeing 20inHg of vacuum, car idles just fine, no sign of leak at idle..
Starting to see a clear residue building on the Intake Manifold under the charger.. I do run meth

Any one else experience this problem?

Ryan

Angel

If your properly torqued down to the intake manifold then I cant see any way of it lifting.

Angel

If your properly torqued down to the intake manifold then I cant see any way of it lifting.

Jrhdpaintball

meth not working correctly? not activating correctly when engaged. when it is working your hitting 10 afr when its not 12 afr? maybe its out there... but a possiblity

how much timing are you running WOT? enough to cause some serious knock if meth not engaged?

Jrhdpaintball

meth not working correctly? not activating correctly when engaged. when it is working your hitting 10 afr when its not 12 afr? maybe its out there... but a possiblity

how much timing are you running WOT? enough to cause some serious knock if meth not engaged?

Jrhdpaintball

meth not working correctly? not activating correctly when engaged. when it is working your hitting 10 afr when its not 12 afr? maybe its out there... but a possiblity

how much timing are you running WOT? enough to cause some serious knock if meth not engaged?

holy hell mega server failure lol

Ryze

I have about 16 degrees into it now.. I didn't check it this time, but for sure has been working 100% in other situations. That was my first suspicion at first also, but I check the neck of the charger all the time and its ALWAYS way cool to the touch.

My i'm leaning toward lift, is because the residue showing up on the manifold, its def. not oil and nothing else is around there that can be on the outside of the manifold. and the inconsistent AFRs I seem to get under WOT on my gauge (not HPT)

Jrhdpaintball

either tighten the bolts to double check them, or try moving the tvs urself... i dont think it would be doing this but who knows... i had a clogged meth nozzle that was giving me sooo much trouble in tuning this... but the timing that you are running isnt toooo aggressive i would say so if meth isnt working... i dont think you would see to much knock anyway...

maybe exhaust leak? you could always de tune a little (timing) so it can run with out meth... run themeth line outside your hood like under your wiper... and go for a drive... thats what i did to find my problem..

Tennpenn83

When i first bolted the tvs on mine, and took it wot the first time, it held just fine. then i started having symptoms similar to yours... with the boost fluttering and afr's all crazy. i thought i blew the headgasket due to coolant leaking around the valve cover and in the oil. upon tearing into the block, though, i found that the headgasket was not blown, but 2 of the stock head bolts were loose enough to be taken out by hand - no wrench. what had happened was the supercharger created so much boost that it stretched the stock head bolts (which are torque-to-yield anyway) and lifted the head from the block, causing the leak. it really only leaked while under boost.

problem solved with ARP head studs

i would not be surprised if it was a similar problem on yours. but keep us updated. it only takes a good hour or so to take off the valve cover and check the head bolts and put everything back together.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

he thinks the TVS is coming off of the IM, not the head lifting off the block like your case.

I really cant imagine 18psi would do that... thats only about 72lbs of force i believe. I have to imagine that 4 torqued bolts would hold down a big chunk of metal down, even with 72lbs of force, and not even wiggle the tiniest bit. even if it does, the rubber sides of the IM gasket would still prevent leaks.

check and make sure everything's torqued correctly

Ryze

Oh its all torqued correctly, checked a few times now. Thinking maybe the bolts are stretched though..

something is not adding up..

Tennpenn83

i got that much, man, give me some credit... lol

that's why i suggested the head lifting.

ryze, are you still using the stock supercharger bolts? check to see if they are loose, at all. you could change those out for peace of mind, for some high strength steel ones like i did. or even add some locktite to the bolts so they don't come loose

KillinKrullin

iTrader: (2)

maybe you have dirt under your gasket creating small opennings? i would replace the sc to im gasket and make sure everything is all clean down there.

Ryze

yep, stock bolts, just checked them again today, and they are tight..Something has got to explain the clear fluid residue forming on the front of my manifold, great idle and vacuum, but lower than normal boost/fluttering and erratic AFRs at WOT

Tennpenn83

check around the valve cover, see if there's any coolant comin out of the gasket. also check the oil, see if there's coolant in there

Ryze

There is no way coolant can come out of the valve cover gasket!

the residue is def. clear with no type of smell or lubrication of any kind like coolant...
head gasket is not blown, no smoke, no mixing, no milk, runs and drives fine
Hell the car doesn't even BURN a drop of oil in 5k miles when I do oil changes.
Guys keep in mind, I am Master ASE certified tech (for real, not lying to get you guys off my back) All other options have been checked.

sput

iTrader: (3)

Do you have a log you could post up?

Tennpenn83

You sir, are very wrong. check out my thread on RLF



well, then sir i don't know what to tell you.

here's proof for you







plus coolant in the cam area upon rebuild.

as an ASE certified master mechanic, you should know how coolant could get there

Ryze

lol.
Pull of your valve cover and show me how coolant got there. If you can..you better be buying your self a new head because you got some MAJOR issues.
Coolant will not LEAK from the valve cover gasket, that fluid is more than likely OIL.
Please prove me wrong, if you can, I will paypal you $10 right now.

Tennpenn83

The fact that I should have to explain this to an ASE certified master mechanic is astonishing.

Right after I put on the TVS, on a completely stock motor, I had enough boost plus compresion that the first 2 headbolts on the left of the #1 cylinder start to stretch. At that location, it is very close to the timing chain, which had lifted the head enough to start dumping coolant into that area. That area is also open to a drain to the oil pan, causing the coolant to leak into the oil. During the rebuild, when I drained the oil, there was a good amount of coolant mixed in.

Being that the timing chain is lubricated with oil right next to the oil pan, oil is brought up to the cams to also keep them lubricated. The stock rubber valve cover gasket is crap anyway, but it keeps in the oil pretty good (usually). Coolant, which was mixed with the oil, is very much thinner than oil, and was able to make its way through the gasket (which is designed to keep in oil, not coolant), not just on the side I showed you, but also on the front, by the fuel rail, which ended up dripping down to the intake manifold also. I am not retarded. I know the difference between coolant and oil.

To fix this problem, I replaced the headgasket with a Cometic. I ordered one because I thought that was what blew. Upon tearing it down, however, we found the bolts loose as I described. The headgasket actually looked pretty good, with no cracks or tears. I figured that as long as I was down that far, I might as well do pistons, too. So I ordered some Diamond Forged 9.5:1 pistons with Total Seal Rings. Then I figured that since the headbolts stretched, I might as well do ARP head studs. Then, since the valve cover gasket was leaking, and showed obvious areas where coolant had come through, and was still there, it was replaced as well. Then I put it all back together bolting the TVS back up. The problem has been solved. BTW, I did this with a buddy in MY garage, with MY tools, on MY car.

I had gone out of my way to try and help you. You decided to try to call me out, and failed. You can send the $10 to my paypal : Tennpenn83@aol.com

Ryze

Okay so there for your coolant was leaking from the HEAD gasket not the VALVE cover gasket, if you want to try to explain something, KNOW what you are talking about..It is still IMPOSSIBLE for the valve cover gasket to leak COOLANT

Tennpenn83

what a cheap cop-out to try to avoid paying me $10. I just proved to you that the valve cover gasket leaked coolant, which apparently is not impossible

red06SC

No, its not.

Think of what would happen if you had a hidden leak in the HG, spilling coolant into the oil...then you also had a leaky VCG...

Tennpenn83

that's exactly what happened with mine

Ryze, I'll be expecting my $10 here shortly, as you said you'd paypal me right now if I proved you wrong - which I did.

bump... where's my $10, Ryze?

GM>urpos

ROFL this is great... hope you get it takin care of tennpenn