Easy, said 11.4 pistons to make it easy, but using wiseco 10:1 with a 1.4mm skimmed head

 

1.4mm skimmed off the head does not mean that you add 1.4 to your compression ratio. You need to do some more math.

 

i like math..., can u elaborate?

 

Yep, 0.93 point CR by flat mm (or maybe it was 0.96, was a long time ago now)

Real CR is 11.9 with the skim + Si valves which are less dished than OE ones

It is actually more than calculated, it is measured of course...

 

bravo..... thought about oversized valves?

 

Not using oversized valves for this first head as it is a N/A engine, theory is as the valves are already big enough you gain enough with standard diam valves + reboring sleeves as it gives more space around the valve to breath

 

Good work.

 

the beast is alive and kicking, the clutch is kicking too... my ass that is... its pretty harsh but if enough finesse is used on the peddle it doesn't chatter.

 

your legs just needs to get stronger =p

 

lmao, congrats man

 

vids after break in!

 

how long did it take to put everything back together?

 

why i have stock peddle pressure, its a stock pressure plate lol

im running a unsprung hub, its a ass kicker, axle snapper, tire burner copper six puck take one in the butt :nohomo:

well started sun

10 min in clutch was tight on input shaft /day


mon

got the clutch fixed spent 4hrs putting engine and trans together mating with sub frame and installing sub frame to car. 1hr of that was dicking around look for tools or parts. /day

tues

took 4hrs hooked up all loose ends tying eng/trans to car, re installed head and turbo, cp and im. went to set up timing and noticed the tangs on one of my cam gears were clean snapped off. go to dealer $80 later /day

thur

gears show up at 9am spend the rest of the morning installing all loose ends and filling fluids bleeding clutch heard her come to life right at about 12 noon.

so a total of what 11hrs and that was me messing around alot scratching my head thinking things through make sure i do it in the right order and doing everything right so it doesent leak. and it took me 5hrs to get the engine torn down and out of the car.

 

hungryhip-ccp, I found this thread a bit late but you went the right route getting Ray to do the sleeves/install. I assume he also added in his mainstuds and did the linehoning for you.
Go easy on the breakin period. The shop who built this DD for me said "no boost" until 500 miles and conventional oil until 2,000+ miles.
I now have 3000 miles on my DD engine and she is running better than any piece of crap engine I got from 'you know who'.
I finally turned up the rev limiter yesterday. Now it is time to turn on the meth and drop down in pulley size and start having some serious fun.
I hope all goes well for you with your new engine.

 

thanks, yeah main studded and line honed.

so does yours vibrate at 3200rpm till 4500ish when light on the throttle cause of the neutral balance shafts?


also ray swears that he breaks em in on mobile 1, he said he has used both conventional oil and mobile 1 and the only difference was the parts with mobile one had almost no corrosion but everything else was the same wear, comp, leakdown ect. so he just uses mobile 1 now.

im taking it easy, i hit 2.38psi on accident the first 50mi the rest was all driving in vacuum. this turbo makes positive pressure so easily

i changed the oil once already im gonna do it again at 500 and then again 1500 after that then call it good.

my last motor i broke in on conventional oil and straight to 15psi after the first 50mi and everything was real tight as far as high comp and low leak down %

so i dont know he built this one im gonna listen to him.

 

I can say that my car doesn't ride stock smooth but as far as vibrations go, I don't feel anything different from when I had solid mounts in. I am riding on OTTP/Powell rotated mounts now and a slightly noisy exhaust which when I first broke in the motor was so frickin loud I couldn't hear anything nor feel anything besides the exhaust.

When I broke the engine in I pretty much babied it in city driving and only took it to higher revs on the highway but still staying out of boost 99% of the time until after 500 miles.

I will say that now when I get on it I don't notice any discernable vibes, just get up and gone. Now I must insert a disclaimer here, just because I don't feel the vibes doesn't mean they aren't there, I could just be the type that tunes them out.

I am heading out soon for a HPT logging session and I will pay extra attention for vibes between 3200-4500rpms and report back a bit later today.


ps

when I am light on the throttle I am usually around 2,000 rpms. Higher than that and I am going for it. I am an 'all or nothing' type of guy.

 

hip
did you tuck
the wires since
you are there already?

 

im the exact same way, but im trying to vary the rpm while breaking it in so i have taken it as far as 4600ish but very light throttle and in the next couple hundred i was eventually gonna reach 5 or 6k rpm but maybe 15% throttle (this would be for short bursts like in 1st and 2nd)

yeah the vibes arent even really vibrations more like a harmonic humming noise coming from the engine. but i have very quite exhaust 2 magnaflow mufflers and a cat. i am on TTR STOP mounts which are poly inserts with aluminum cnc housing like the ottp

 

Back from my HTP logging session and the first thing I noticed when I turned on my car, it vibrates.

Having said that I played with my revs between 3-4.5k and I noticed nothing more than I already feel outside of that range. With noise from my exhaust I feel more than hear.

The way you describe your breakin plan is the same way I did it. I did put on some highway miles but I still varied my revs intermittenly.

 

stevesblack06 has them in his block they are perfect fit no other machining needed to be done

the stock sleeves are exactly the same we have all 8 of them sitting righr next to eachother.......were making beer steins outta them and old connecting rods lol

 

Glad to hear your frustration level is low after putting things back together. I've got my block slated to go to my machinist on Monday, after getting the sleeves yesterday.

 

his motor is almost done just needs to be timed and other misc.

 

If the Darton sleeves are a direct fit, no machining required then they are a totally different sleeve compared to the Bates sleeves as plenty of machining is required for the Bates sleeves. I can now understand why the Bates sleeves were used by GMR.

 

oh no no no there is a ton of machine work that needs to be done for them to work i wish i would have got a pic of what they looked like installed

 

Sort of like this before the sleeves were installed??



Bates sleeves