2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

High Milage LE5

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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #26  
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Ion
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From: The Ohio University
Yea. Not always these together, but the most common overall. Stupid thing started the day the warranty expired and the dealership near me sucks at service. Any help would rock.

P0121....Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0833....Clutch Pedal Switch 'B' Circuit
P1516....Electronic throttle module throttle postion
P2101....Throttle Actuator "A" Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance
P2135...Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation ECM
P2176....Throttle Actuator Control System - Idle Position Not Learned]2`
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #27  
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From: Taunton MA
yup clutch switch is bad. its a $10 part from the dealer. mine did it oo. ive replaced mine twice. i break them at the track when im trying to bang gears.

also guys with idling issues try and clean you IAC while your at it. the MAF is a good idea. the IAC (idle air control) is located in the Tb housing and can be removed by two screws and cleaned with the safe stuff as the MAF cleaner
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 01:22 PM
  #28  
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From: Flint,MI
I have 84k miles on my '07 LE5 and have no motor or auto trans issues.
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 04:25 PM
  #29  
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From: Abita Springs, Louisiana
I've got 89k on my 06 auto. I've got a few mods (see sig) and run her pretty hard (took her to the strip a few times, had her dyno'd, etc.) The only problem I had was a faulty O2 sensor at around 65k miles (it went out in a torrential rain storm - maybe the water somehow damaged it.) No other issues other than wear & tear stuff like brake pads and tires. I run Mobil 1 oil, change it when the DIC says, and she doesn't burn a drop between changes. I just had the tranny oil and filter changed. I have a tranny oil cooler, but pull a 1,700 lb. pop-up camper 3-4k miles a year at high speeds and in the mountains with no issues.

She's much more reliable than I ever thought possible.

I'm a happy camper!

Chip
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #30  
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From: Philadelphia Pa
just hit 100k on my 06

85k wheel hub bearing....then just annoying ones like my passenger window being super slow.
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #31  
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From: Hagerstown, MD
I have more than 75,000 miles on my 06 Cobalt N.A. completely stock.

I just changed the atx fluid just to be sure.

The chrome on my right side door handle is peeling. Scotch tape ftw.

Besides that, it's working fine, no codes or issues so far. I rarely ever floor it, only when I need to go uphill.
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #32  
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From: Wilmington, NC
Originally Posted by Chibits12
I rarely ever floor it, only when I need to go uphill.
I floor mine daily it seems. Only 33,050 though, but these eco's seem to be damn near bulletproof.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 04:02 AM
  #33  
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From: The Ohio University
Awesome. I'l check with the dealer tomorrow then. Now I can throw in the ZZP turbo I've been afraid to get. Here's to hoping the clutch switch works. I could have fixed it last month, had I not deleted the bookmark to this thread, lol.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #34  
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by Mindrot
I've had a few annoying issues with my LE5. I'm at 56K miles.

1. Steering Collum Replaced
2. Coolant Sensor Failure
3. Thermostat Failure
4. Broken Automatic Shifter
5. Warped Rear Rotors
6. Car wants to stall/bogs randomly at red lights (GM can't figure it out)
7. Rear brakes continue to squeek when cold in reverse (GM can't figure it out)
8. Magnaflow exhaust leak (Flange won't sit flush)
me too!!! but i haven't taken it to GM. Did they found the problem?
I also have
- a loud clung or clank noise when I brake, coming from the rear brakes (can be hear outside and inside). Haven't take it to check (will do it when classes finish)
- 3 to 4 consecutive clungs or clucking (don't know how to say it lol) after 3-7min I turn off the car, also coming from rear wheels (suspension? is louder inside than outside). GM couldn't found nothing

oops forgot to say I'm at 32k miles
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #35  
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From: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
I just rolled over 23,400 miles on my '07. Bought it in May '07.
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #36  
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From: St. Louis
Originally Posted by Mindrot
I've had a few annoying issues with my LE5. I'm at 56K miles.

1. Steering Collum Replaced
2. Coolant Sensor Failure
3. Thermostat Failure
4. Broken Automatic Shifter
5. Warped Rear Rotors
6. Car wants to stall/bogs randomly at red lights (GM can't figure it out)
7. Rear brakes continue to squeek when cold in reverse (GM can't figure it out)
8. Magnaflow exhaust leak (Flange won't sit flush)
Im at 61,000 now, and ive had 1. 5 and 6 so far lol,
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
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From: Taunton MA
warped rotors are your own damn fault
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #38  
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From: Maple Ridge, B.C Canada
Originally Posted by LS6Rally
warped rotors are your own damn fault
That may be but them ******* still warp easy. Im easy on my brakes and my cars my rotors warped after 2 passes down the drag strip from slowing the car down to make the exit. No reason you rotors should warp after 2 passes down a dragstrip, i even went to the far exit of the track so i didnt have to slow down as fast.

Ive made about 20 passes on my R1 rotors and are still perfect
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 09:14 PM
  #39  
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From: Taunton MA
but your R1's are performance Rotors and are they crossdrilled or slotted? also idk but i dont really need my breaks after my passes. let the engine do the work
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #40  
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From: Maple Ridge, B.C Canada
Originally Posted by LS6Rally
but your R1's are performance Rotors and are they crossdrilled or slotted? also idk but i dont really need my breaks after my passes. let the engine do the work
letting the engine do all the work from 6800rpm in 3rd without any break help doesnt seem to be the greatest idea in my book. And the rotors are drilled and slotted.
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 10:32 PM
  #41  
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From: Taunton MA
you let it get to 6800 in the first place, so you cant think that its hurting it all that bad. its under a huge load durring the acceleration. so why would the De-cel hurt it more?
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #42  
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From: Maple Ridge, B.C Canada
holding at those revs longer then it has to doesnt seem smart. thats just me. Its only that high for a few seconds, why add another few seconds if u dont have to
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 10:27 PM
  #43  
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From: San Pedro/PV
50k boosted miles on my le5. 62k miles total. runs strong. new clutch was installed about 10k after the s/c went in.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #44  
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From: St. Louis
My rotors literally warped in less then 30 seconds, somebody ran a red light and i braked hard, and after that, everytime i braked my steering wheel shook like crazy
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 08:00 PM
  #45  
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From: Monmouth/Mercer County NJ
Mine isn't really high-mileage its at 43K. But it still runs like a champ it has ran on 87 octane until now, as of today it gets 93 octane.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 01:38 AM
  #46  
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From: Maple Ridge, B.C Canada
it will run better now that ur using the right fuel in it. May wanna check your spark plugs
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