Not all TTY bolts need to be turned the extra degrees... but most do have that spec.
Yes, you need to turn the bolt 75* after the initial torquing.
It helps to have a degree attachment. They run about $20-30 at most tool supply businesses.

 

OK, I'm picking one of these up this weekend.... where can I get on the these bolts and what kinda bolt is it? Sorry, I just don't feel like reading through all the pages...

 

Okay, cool thats what I thought, I may have to pick one up for future reference then. Thanks.

You can get it from the dealership. It took about 3 days for mine to get here. Only 6.36.

 

Thankx man! Couldn't have been more simple!

+1 fake rep!

 

No problem. Lol, I haven't seen that rep system in a while.

 

I hate to ask but any results in yet?

 

Yea, Rep died. But I still keep up with the Invisa-rep! lol

I think it was like 5whp

 

I just got mine in today, so I will let you know how it goes after tomorrow. Sorry, but no before/after HP numbers, only the butt-dyno for me. Lol

 

Which means you won't be able to tell a damn bit of difference and will probably be dissappointed.

 

Ehh... Even if I cant notice a difference as far as feeling, I am heading back to the track on Wednesday, so, hopefully I will see something there.

 

So, I just finished putting it on. Really easy, no more than 20 minutes with a buddy and some air-tools.
A hint, when putting it back on, instead of using a pry-bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, just stick the car in 5th gear and have your buddy push the break pedal down. This is more than enough resistance to get you your 76 ft/lbs

I personally think there is a difference, especially where the car starts to pull. That "weaker" spot around 2900-3500 is now gone, or at least reduced significantly. I will be able to tell any other difference after Wednesday's test and tune at the track.

 

Nifty. I've debated getting this.

But instead of putting the car in 5th gear... you should put it in 1st or Reverse. In all reality, if someone is holding the brakes... it doesn't matter what gear you put it in though.

Hmmmm... how long is this sale gonna last?

 

Yea, I normally use one of those gears, but for some reason I choose 5th. Lol.. I dont remember why though.

I would recommend it. Its 125, but it really opened up that power band area a little more.

Ohh yea, and as another side note, even though the new one slid right on, (and I suppose the old one should have slide right off the same way) we had to use a harmonic pulley puller to get the old pulley off, or at least to release it where it was stuck in there good. Lol

 

JBP, According to your website your LSJ crank pulley is listed to fit. "LSJ, LE5, L61, LNF".
This is not true. Yes the pulley will physically bolt onto any ecotec crank, but the LE5 and L61 pulley grooves centerline offset is different than the LSJ and LNF centerline. This in time will eat belts. Also there are other slight differences in the pulleys. I'll post pics later tonight or tomorrow. Most L61 cranks are the same, but there are two diameters. Also the Solstace / Skys are different due to the power steering pump pulley being incorporated into the crank pulley which further move the belts. Also the Outside Diameter of the LSJ is different then the LE5 / L61, and LNF cranks.

Furthermore the 8 bolt LSJ crank spacing is different than the 6 bolt LNF, L61, and LE5 crank spacing.

 

Ok, i think this guy might be right...I just had a HECK of a time installing this on my LE5...now that it is installed my crank pulley WOBBLES! Its torqued down! What is going on??? Could this be because of the "Centerline offset"????? Can I get my money back if its not gonna work?

EDIT-MY FAULT!!! I DIDNT LINE UP THE WOODRUFF KEY

 

I installed the pulley on my 2.4 yesterday with absolutely no problem. Took about 15 minutes. If you measure the LE5 pulley against the JBP one, the offset is exactly the same and so is the diameter. The belt will run on the inner grooves and the outer one will not be used. It fits perfectly on my engine. Great product JBP!!

 

Wait, the LNF uses a 6-bolt crank? Thats odd...

 

I apologize, it was my fault, JBP made a great product

 

I hate to bump this post up again but i think i have some information that never got brought up.

about a week ago i was driving to hartford ct for work. I noticed that my cobalt was leaking oil right after i got the low oil light. so I checked over the car and realized there was a decent oil leak... Well thank god for AAA got it towed back to the shop. We pull the shroud off underneath the motor and starting looking for the leak. Thought maybe it was main bearing seal but there was no leak behind the pully... just in front. So we pulled the belt and then the pully (OH BTW THE BOLT WAS ******* HAND TIGHT) and found out that the key way from the crank to the crank pulley had snapped. Looked at the pulley and then saw that the key slot was in a shape of a V. So after about a week of investigating... I talked to a friend of the dealer and she told me about the Crank bolt prolly got reused when the lower end was rebuilt because of the recall on the piston rings. That was 13000 miles ago so it may not show right away but if you reuse that bolt it will come loose and cause this problem. So now because the Stock pulley is on a 3-4 month back order. I am just going to get a JBP pulley if i could just find someone to sell me one in the US.

If anyone can think of something else that could be wrong with this situation that I overlooked please let me know. sorry if you get mad for this forum bump...

Justin

 

dear god dont buy from jbp, buy from MRZ they fixed jbp's problem

 

after reading this im glad i paid 80 new for mine from a fellow member.