2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

How much HP for Fully bolted N/A ?

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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:33 AM
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From: Fort Leonard Wood, MO
How much HP for Fully bolted N/A ?

So im undecided if i wanna go turbo/supercharged on my 2.4 just wondering... how much hp will the 2.4 have if i have full bolt ons. full exhaust, intake , headers/dp etc. ?
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:34 AM
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From: louisville k.y
about 170 to the wheels.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:44 AM
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damn thats it??? so it only has like 150 to the wheels stock then? gaay i think im making my decision already lol
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:45 AM
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turbo is the best choice.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:47 AM
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don't listen to a SS/SC guy about 2.4L guys... I am made 171 at the wheels with just my intake, dyno to prove it also. So with exhaust, tune and cam you have the possibility to be near 200whp, POSSIBILITY. but really expect in the area of 180-190 with bolt ons.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:52 AM
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From: louisville k.y
they only make 171 at the flywheel stock ,so you put a intake and now got 171 to the wheels ,ok. 140 to 145 stock to the wheels damn you picked up26 whp with just the intake? ok
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:54 AM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by scott allen
they only make 171 at the flywheel stock ,so you put a intake and now got 171 to the wheels ,ok. 140 to 145 stock to the wheels damn you picked up26 whp with just the intake? ok
I was 159whp stock and got 12 from my intake (171) I have the sheet if you would like to see it.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 01:58 AM
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From: louisville k.y
thats not bad i guess gm underated the 2.4 also.i would say stock flywheel they make around 185 hp. learn something new everyday.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:01 AM
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yeah there have been a complet 2.4s in the mid to high 150s stock but more are high 140s low 150s stock. But no one has stayed NA long enough to dyno with full bolt ons. I plan on getting a tune over winter and dyno in the spring so we can get some official numbers.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:02 AM
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a full N/A build should put u past 200whp. the problem with building an N/A 4 banger is that not many people do it so its more expensive and may require some custom parts and A LOT of research.

going N/A ull really need full bolt-ons before u notice some decent gains. then plan on pulling the head bc thats where the moneys at. an aggressive port and polished or if u have the cash CNCed head. of course u would have to have the right measurements and a flow bench handy to get the dimensions all right... oh and a few extra heads for testing different port dimensions. some high lift long durations cams are a must and with long duration cams ull need to increase ur compression ratio so that u dont sacrifice drive ability. hell while ur at it u might wanna throw in a set of oversized valves.

i havent cracked open an ecotec ever and dont know all the specs but thats the jist of building an N/A 4 cyl.... trust me, turbos cheaper and easier. but is it worth it??? thats up to u... a turbo doesnt lope does it
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:03 AM
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hmm sounds good to me. maybe ill be the first to just stay full bolt on. who knows.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:04 AM
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From: louisville k.y
they could put down 200 whp then, damn thats pretty damn good. **** port the head you might get 210 to 215 whp. huh, damn.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:09 AM
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cobeeezy is the guy with the most done (NA) to his cobalt. but with P&P and come valve train work, toss in a good cam and tune you could be in the 210-220 range at the wheels
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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there used to be a profile on GM tuner source where someone manage to crank 350HP out of the 2.4L while staying N/A. But I can't find it now. Of course if your gunna crank that much out of the 2.4L you have to change everything on the engine which means lots of custom parts.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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full bolts should put you in the 190s
with head work you should be into the low mid 200s

in my 2.2 (just for comparison) with full bolts, a shaved head, stg 2 cams, and a tune im pushing 190s to the wheels, with full ported, polished, 5 angle valve job to the head, with a little more shaving, all upgraded valve train, aftermarket tubular intake mani, and ported tb we are expecting anywhere from 220-240...but we shall see. after that it is all block work.

if you did it right, and spent alot of time and money on it, then you do have the possibility to hit high 200s, but it wont be the cheapest option to get there, boost will be cheaper...but where is the fun in that???

the problem the 2.4 will have with all this is the only option for cams is jbp and that really isnt an option at all so your kinda stuck...even with full head work, with stock cams you wont be able to take full advantage of your power

Last edited by NWAE Cobalt; Aug 8, 2009 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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idk man, its a tough choice. I feel like turbo is so much easier, but full bolot ons and block work is definatley brag worthy lol
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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Wow so many different numbers.... I guess it depends on everyone's elevation, and conditions?? I have intake (gmpp customized to fit torque damper) and LSJ downpipe so I should assume I have 165-170whp? My intake is almost like K&N except without the heatshield or K&N filter. I don't want to dyno yet till I have all my bolt ons.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by slobalt08
Wow so many different numbers.... I guess it depends on everyone's elevation, and conditions?? I have intake (gmpp customized to fit torque damper) and LSJ downpipe so I should assume I have 165-170whp? My intake is almost like K&N except without the heatshield or K&N filter. I don't want to dyno yet till I have all my bolt ons.
the big problem with the GMPP intake is the elbow right before the TB. its to restrictive.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by StrongIslandBalter
idk man, its a tough choice. I feel like turbo is so much easier, but full bolot ons and block work is definatley brag worthy lol
x2 man. im still stock with my engine right now trying to think of which way i want to go
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
Originally Posted by RedBalt44
x2 man. im still stock with my engine right now trying to think of which way i want to go
easiest way to look at it



Cheap to Expensive

\/
Nitrous with bolt ons (mid 13s) $2000-2500
\/
Supercharger swap (could be in 12s with DR) $3-4000
\/
Turbokit (11s with ZZP kit) $3500+ to go fast
\/
NA build (13s easy but a lot of time and money) who really knows how much.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkinuts
the big problem with the GMPP intake is the elbow right before the TB. its to restrictive.
Yeah I know. I'm working on changing that.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkinuts
easiest way to look at it



Cheap to Expensive

\/
Nitrous with bolt ons (mid 13s) $2000-2500
\/
Supercharger swap (could be in 12s with DR) $3-4000
\/
Turbokit (11s with ZZP kit) $3500+ to go fast
\/
NA build (13s easy but a lot of time and money) who really knows how much.
this is true, but in originality, awesomeness and tq...the most expensive is where its at
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
full bolts should put you in the 190s
with head work you should be into the low mid 200s

in my 2.2 (just for comparison) with full bolts, a shaved head, stg 2 cams, and a tune im pushing 190s to the wheels, with full ported, polished, 5 angle valve job to the head, with a little more shaving, all upgraded valve train, aftermarket tubular intake mani, and ported tb we are expecting anywhere from 220-240...but we shall see. after that it is all block work.

if you did it right, and spent alot of time and money on it, then you do have the possibility to hit high 200s, but it wont be the cheapest option to get there, boost will be cheaper...but where is the fun in that???

the problem the 2.4 will have with all this is the only option for cams is jbp and that really isnt an option at all so your kinda stuck...even with full head work, with stock cams you wont be able to take full advantage of your power
"if you did it right" is the key part. getting everything to work together perfectly it the key to getting lots of n/a power. if ur ports and header are designed for high end power and ur cams are ground for low rpm power then ur gonna be screwing urself out of some nice gains.

if someone really wants to throw some money at their car theres quite a few shops that will do custom ground cams... itll just cost a bit. and really for an n/a monster compression and cams are key. im sure the head cant be shaved enough to run high lift cams without running into some clearance issues. pulling the head and seeing some bend valves makes u wanna throw up (trust me). so some high c/r pistons with valve reliefs cut in them would also be a must.

oh and dont forget that unless some MAJOR tuning is done long duration cams are gonna suck ***** driving around on the street. raising the idle or keeping slightly on the gas at idle isnt that bad but mileage goes down the shitty.

not to discourage the OP. N/A 4cyls not only have some potential to be quick... but there pretty rare. build it up and make some decent numbers and a lot of people may know ur name. if uve got the money why do what everyone else does? stand out. take on the challenge.

as for me... i have no money. so if anything goes on my balt other than a tune/ex/intake itll be a pieced together sc from the jy. lol
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by potatoman
"if you did it right" is the key part. getting everything to work together perfectly it the key to getting lots of n/a power. if ur ports and header are designed for high end power and ur cams are ground for low rpm power then ur gonna be screwing urself out of some nice gains.

if someone really wants to throw some money at their car theres quite a few shops that will do custom ground cams... itll just cost a bit. and really for an n/a monster compression and cams are key. im sure the head cant be shaved enough to run high lift cams without running into some clearance issues. pulling the head and seeing some bend valves makes u wanna throw up (trust me). so some high c/r pistons with valve reliefs cut in them would also be a must.

oh and dont forget that unless some MAJOR tuning is done long duration cams are gonna suck ***** driving around on the street. raising the idle or keeping slightly on the gas at idle isnt that bad but mileage goes down the shitty.

not to discourage the OP. N/A 4cyls not only have some potential to be quick... but there pretty rare. build it up and make some decent numbers and a lot of people may know ur name. if uve got the money why do what everyone else does? stand out. take on the challenge.

as for me... i have no money. so if anything goes on my balt other than a tune/ex/intake itll be a pieced together sc from the jy. lol
ya, people know my car around here haha, its a VERY unique sound
as for bent valves, i know how that goes too, bent all 8 exhaust valves with bad timing after cam install
and i have the stage 2 comp cams that have a pretty high lift and duration and are great around town after 1st gear...1st gear sucks

but ya///why not build it
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
ya, people know my car around here haha, its a VERY unique sound
as for bent valves, i know how that goes too, bent all 8 exhaust valves with bad timing after cam install
and i have the stage 2 comp cams that have a pretty high lift and duration and are great around town after 1st gear...1st gear sucks

but ya///why not build it
lol. on my old car i spent months carefully port and polishing my head and selecting the perfect cams. got the head shaved. it was nice. put it on and after hours of timing it we finally got her started. after a decent break in period for the cams we revved her up a bit... valve buckets came apart and shattered, chipped cams, floated all the ex valves and bent 6 of them.
anyways, i never actually got the car off the jack stands with it going like that and i still recieved an email or 2 from admirers. lol. im not trying to brag just trying to make a point. how many turboed 4 cyls have u heard of.... a gabajallion... supered.... a bajallion... n/a... not so much.

but to each his own. do what u like. not what anyone else likes. bc in the end ur the one whos driving it. and ur the one who has to put up with the turbo lag, shitty idle, mad mileage, etc. every time u mod a car ur trading something off.
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