for any of you who may have been searching for inner tie rods, i found some online. instead of replacing the whole steering rack you can go to carpartscloseouts.com and type in part number MOG EV80445

hope this helps. i may be in need of some myself soon.

 

They are MOOG brand parts. Available most anywhere auto parts are sold local and online. RockAuto.com seems to have some of the better prices on stuff. Here is a listing of the other front suspension pieces MOOG makes for the Cobalts. Great quality, better engineered than stock. I rebuilt my entire front suspension this past weekend with the MOOG stuff, turned out great!

Sway Bar Links K750012
Ball Joints K80567
Outer Tie Rods ES800030
Inner Tie Rod EV80445

 

how about these inner tie rods? can i go with them and not worry about the entire steering shaft? or does the shaft get worn as well. i got 137k miles and im starting to feel bump steer and the grooves in the road, and vibration. slowly getting worse.

 

didn't i make a post in your thread about a month ago stating to just take it to a shop and pay them to figure out what is wrong, or you'll end up spending 6 months and a couple thousand dollars fixing things that don't need to be worked on?

 

ive done a little work since. narrowing down the possibilities. you never know, someone hear can be experiencing the same issue. besides, im entitled to seeking other opinions.....

 

The inner tie rod is basically just a rod attached to a ball and socket joint where it attaches into the steering rack. Inside the steering rack is a geared piece that moves back and forth. If you are having problems with vibration it could be a number of things. Including tires (out of balance, etc), brakes, rotors, suspension (worn pieces, out of alignment), etc. If it's the suspension it is likely a part that can get worn like the ball joints, outer tie rods, control arm bushings, etc... If you can't properly diagnose it, I'd take it to a mechanic.

I just rebuilt my entire front suspension this past weekend and replaced all of the pieces with MOOG parts. The car is tighter than I've ever felt it. The kicker is my car only has 20,XXX miles on it. So with your car's 137K miles, it's very possible things are worn. It cost me about $250 shopping around online for all the parts, and about an entire day to do all the work myself.

My 2 cents...

 

thanks. ive replaced my LCA bushings, sway bar bushings, struts, and trany/engine mounts. tires were just balanced and rotated
im just down the the bearings and steering shaft parts. id like to narrow down if i could to whats really causing problems

meanwhile, the vibes did not change before or after installing any of those parts. my brake rotors and pads are fairly new in front.


someone told me that the steering shaft itself will wear down just like the inner tie road joints will. so thats what im trying to find out. if i get inner tie rods, will i still have to buy the whole shaft too or should it be ok

 

could be the intermediate shaft... i just replaced mine and it tightened things up and reduced vibrations felt in the steering wheel

 

of course you are entitled to... i was just trying to save you $ you've probably spent $1k on something that may have been a $50 part

 

well, my first stop is always to get on here. you guys out there know alot more than me and since theres thousands here, someone could have the same problem. i understand where you are getting at. i do plan on doing my steering shaft either way, cuz its certain after 137k miles its porbably not what it used to be.

my steering just started making a noise today....

while parked, when i steer back n forth it makes a soft sqeaking noise very similar to turning your tire on a wax or shiny floor. im guessing power steerin fluid? but wouldnt it pop up on my dashboard messages?

 

all my steering parts are good and my alignment is good. i got wavy tires. soomehow... somewhere lol

 

thanks for the PNs... big help!

 

No problem. I just redid my front suspension last week and those MOOG parts worked good. Well engineered. They are all greasable and are easier to install. The sway bar links for instance are thicker than stock, and have a nut built into the stud so you can actually loosen and tighten them up without hoping your impact wrench just happens to wiggle the spinning stud loose. The ball joints are way thicker than stock and seem to be a lot tighter too.

 

good to hear

 

hey, big question. HOW DO YOU GET THE BALL JOINTS OFF THE LCA????

when i look at my lower control are, the ball joint is held on my three rivets or something. not screws, or bolts tha can be taken out. How do were get this off to put the new ball joint on???

 

A whole lotta grinding, drilling, and swearing... It's a major PITA, but pretty standard when it comes to ball joints. The factory ball joints are held in with rivets, the aftermarket ones are held by bolts.

 

geting the ball joint off of hub is cake. but yah, i figured id have to grind those rivots off. BS

 

If you have a drill press or an ultra steady hand, the preferred method is drilling out the rivets. If you grind them off, you still need to pound them out, and they are extremely tight in the holes. Plus you can grind into the control arm and destroy it. I tried grinding first and then drilled them out. It wasn't terrible, but wasn't easy. Good luck!

 

im dreading this day, when i do get new bjoints

 

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