2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

2.4 auto guys with headers step inside!

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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 02:37 AM
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CordiaDOHC's Avatar
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2.4 auto guys with headers step inside!

Ok I have a JBP header and I know the rep behind these things but its what I wanted and its what I have.


So did you guys have a hard time installing any of your headers? I know the JBP is the hardest and it wouldve been easier if I had instructions

Also I thought the 2.4 autos had more room between the block and firewall due to the engine being clocked slightly more forward for the auto (making it a bit harder to fit the sc's on the autos).


Any information is appreciated. We are going to attempt to do this monday in a mazda service bay So it will be on a lift.

We are debating between dropping the cradle some or maybe trying to go through the wheel well (we are doing lowering springs at the same time and changing my injen sai to the full cai setup).

So let me know what you think? Honestly if I pick up 5hp I will be happy.
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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Illini_06SS's Avatar
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From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by CordiaDOHC
Ok I have a JBP header and I know the rep behind these things but its what I wanted and its what I have.


So did you guys have a hard time installing any of your headers? I know the JBP is the hardest and it wouldve been easier if I had instructions

Also I thought the 2.4 autos had more room between the block and firewall due to the engine being clocked slightly more forward for the auto (making it a bit harder to fit the sc's on the autos).


Any information is appreciated. We are going to attempt to do this monday in a mazda service bay So it will be on a lift.

We are debating between dropping the cradle some or maybe trying to go through the wheel well (we are doing lowering springs at the same time and changing my injen sai to the full cai setup).

So let me know what you think? Honestly if I pick up 5hp I will be happy.
Installing my header was pretty straight forward. There is a bit more room at the engine side to get tools in there, but I don't think it's enough to really make it easier. the hard part for my install was getting access to the bottom bolt for the downpipe since my DP flex portion lined up perfectly with my sway bar and I had a hell of a time getting a socket on that nut.

My suggestion is to actually install the header to the block while it is on the ground, then lift it up and go at it from underneath to bolt the header to the DP. If you need any more info, this install is still fresh in my head and you can throw me a PM with any specific questions. Oh, and my header/DP is the ZZP mid-length combo.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:15 AM
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Well small update. a JBP header will not fit an 08 2.4 auto without modification of the coolant crossover tube.


So my JBP is going back up for sale!
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 04:34 AM
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^^ pics of tube please?
i was fairly confident it would fit..more so on an auto
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
^^ pics of tube please?
i was fairly confident it would fit..more so on an auto
Already took it off as this car is my daily. The header tube was also slightly dented in from the previous owner and it still didnt clear.

Now the header came off of a 2.4 HHR. So im not sure where the difference lays.
But when bolted on I lost close to a gallon of coolant from the crossover tube leaking. Once it was off it was fine. So Im not sure if the 2.4 auto has a bigger crossover tube or if the 2.4 08 has a bigger cross over tube. But I didnt want to dent in the header anymore for it to clear. So Im going to sell it and either stay stock or just buy a zzp shorty.

In order to get the JBP to fit on an auto you do need to drop the rear of the front subframe. On a manual I dont know. Ive heard its not that difficult. The stock manifold can go through the top or bottom. But the JBP will not go through an auto wheel well or the top of the engine bay.

Our solution. Loosen the front subframe bolts. Remove the rear subframe bolts. Unbolt the steering rack and unbolt the passenger side motor mount. That was enough for it to clear on an auto car. And honestly it might be possible to run a slightly thicker head to header exhaust gasket plus a slightly larger header dimple. Along with maybe rotating the crossover tube. But we decided to cut our losses considering we were at 4-5 hours already at this point (some of the bolts were giving us trouble and we were all tired as hell before we started).

Any questions though and I will gladly answer them.
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