PrincessTurbo

Imagine that crazy steves IC inlets and outlets are SO far off that they popped off a coupler or something . I couldn't see that happening

When I had my Crazy steves that thing weighed about 40 lbs and the welds were doubled up on all seems and it looked almost robotic , In that sense the build quality seemed very well but its just the core that sucked at lowering temps and the inlets are way off....

I among others with stock and aftermarket CP's put this thing back in the box and told Genuine saab to stick where the sun don't shine.


It doesn't pay in the end to get cheap parts. especially if you plan on doing more mods. more head aches and things to make you wonder like the IC.

Good luck man !

Miko

Looks like they should include a different actuator to make it easier to adjust. If the adjuster nut was closer to the actuator instead of at the gate it would be easier. Something more like this where the nut is close to the actuator...

beast10007

newbe lol good info

also idk if this would work but y not use the stocker(WG)

dandaman15

I thought the stock one was built into the stock compressor housing and is electronically controlled. Therefore your not going to be able to use the stock one unless you have the stock compressor housing. You can use it on Stage 1 BNR Turbo but not on the Stage 2.

Does anyone have the Stage 1 turbo yet?

beast10007

thanks for clearing that up for me

turbo_chevy_cobalt

so is it just the az guys who has the 2871?

tglems

iTrader: (3)

So I found 2 boost leaks tonight using my homemade boost leak tester. A 3" PVC cap, a valve stem, some epoxy and my bike pump...



The two leaks were as follows:
1) Relocated MAF on cold side CP was not screwed down enough.
2) Open hole for T-MAP sensor on cold side CP. The stock t-map sensor has two bolts holding it in. The GMS1 only has one bolt. When you look at the ZZP cold side CP the bolt holes don't go all the way through so I didn't put a bolt in the hole. What must have happened is that under boost the little bit of metal left got blown out of the hole and then we had a nasty boost leak.

tglems

iTrader: (3)

Also, for anyone who purchases the Stage II. It will now have a 3" tip welded on so your charge pipes will work.

BlackBeast!

Yes get that **** fixed tyler lol

Matt M

I wish people would follow instructions. This is included with every lower charge tube.

Nothing blew out. Boost can clearly leak under the MAF pad through the bolt holes if you don't plug them.

HHRSSouth

Hot damn, good news.

Why did you feel that you needed to go with a relocated MAS? I read BYT's write up that said you can run a BOV to atmosphere without having to get a MAS relocate.

beast10007

I would like to know this as well

slowbalt84

Yea u don't need to relocate the maf. I have been running my 50 trim with the big at stock location for 6 months and its all good

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

He didnt need it for the BOV but it does work nicely with a bigger turbo setup, and the stocker really too if you're not spraying meth.

Ive been had by that screw then saw the bag and piece of paper LOL...

Glad you found the leaks, send a log :P lol

FF_ace

I have my hp tuners back hopefully he gets the leaks fixed then we can log it later

tglems

iTrader: (3)

Lol, I never even opened that up to read it. In fact, it is still sitting in my garage. Ugh, now I feel like an idiot. I just looked at the hole and saw metal at the bottom, thought it didn't need plugging, and moved on.

Hey Matt, can you post up a close up picture of the where the tMAP sensor goes on those cold side charge pipes? I just want to make sure I've plugged all the necessary holes (and it is difficult to see now that it is installed). Thanks in advance.

Matt M

tglems

iTrader: (3)

Hey Matt,
Thank you for posting those and the customer service. The reason I said something blew out is because the holes for the stock sensor which need to be plugged were not drilled all the way through on my pipe. When I looked at it I saw that it wasn't an open hole and didn't bother. I'm sure you can understand why I didn't bother plugging a bolt hole that wasn't drilled all the way through the CP, and therefore didn't expect it to leak. However, under pressure, since it was almost drilled through, the last little bit of metal plugging the hole came out. I will go through tonight and make sure everything is properly plugged and then we'll get back to tuning!

Matt M

That's what I was saying. Nothing blew out. It can simply leak from under the sensor pad if you don't have the set screws in there. While the sensor pad is welded all the way around, it is not welded under the fitting hole and sensor hole. Boost can just go under there to the bolt hole. Look at the pic above. You can see a lip where the tube is drilled under the sensor hole. That's 2 different pieces of metal. Boost can go between them. Not much boost, but a small amount. I understand why you didn't think it needed the screws, but that's why we include the note.

tglems

iTrader: (3)

WTF? My car was boosting fine before. Now it won't go above 16psi. I tightened the wastegate rod. Thought I was done. Still won't boost. Fixed the MAF leak. Thought I was done. Still won't boost. Plugged those holes for the tMAP. Thought I was done. Still won't boost. How on earth does a car boost just fine and then all of a sudden there are 8893572 things wrong with it to make it not boost??!?!?!?! And now I'm using my little boost leak tester and I cannot hear any sort of hiss or anything to indicate any sort of boost leak. So, I know this is a major thread jack from the original topic of the GT2871, but I'm just unhappy and I probably won't have time to rip the effin' IC off until this weekend at the earliest.

1LowLS

Double check the vacuum lines and check the vacuum line going from the comp housing to the wastegate valve?

Matt M

Do you have a check engine light or any pending DTCs? Sometimes the ECM will limit boost due to a code that really has nothing to do with the turbo. If you don't have a way to clear codes, try unhooking the ECM connectors for a half hour or so, then see if it boosts normally again.

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

I have seen that once or twice before, you can just flash the same file back to the car too and it will clear that crap.

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

^^^ Hey Nick is your inbox full? lol Been trying to reach ya about a tune

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

I responded lol. IDK..