Bnr k04-gt28
#1026
Senior Member
If you are getting the stage 2 you don't need it for the core. You need an aftermarket BOV and upper charge pipe for stage 2. MAF relocation would think could be a good investment as well..
If you are getting stage 1 you use the stock one ... From what I can tell.....
If you are getting stage 1 you use the stock one ... From what I can tell.....
#1027
Senior Member
#1028
Senior Member
#1031
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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#1033
Former Vendor
Yes you are correct and my initial thoughts were an 11 psi spring, but I took the advice of a member who recommended the 8 psi spring. The 8 psi spring might work for a MAF relocate or something (I have no idea) but I don't see no way of making the car idle properly with the BOV open to atmosphere on a non MAF relocate car at idle.
#1034
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's an old thread from BYT, also addressing the topic, if that helps.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...truths-212311/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...truths-212311/
#1035
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Here's an old thread from BYT, also addressing the topic, if that helps.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...truths-212311/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...truths-212311/
#1036
Former Vendor
Thanks for the info
I was told by a very knowledgeable tuner we can run a BOV to atmosphere and tune it on our particular cars due to the way our ecm responds betweens shifts.
I will try the 11 psi spring first and see how it goes. If worse comes to worse I'll just order the MAF flange and have it welded to my ICP after the BOV and block off my existing one.
I also understand the idea of a quicker acting BOV but it does not change the fact a 8 psi spring is not going to stay close during idle/vacuum on our cars, (like what was recommended to me). At least not getting vaccum from a direct source like the manifold like Tial recommends.
I was told by a very knowledgeable tuner we can run a BOV to atmosphere and tune it on our particular cars due to the way our ecm responds betweens shifts.
I will try the 11 psi spring first and see how it goes. If worse comes to worse I'll just order the MAF flange and have it welded to my ICP after the BOV and block off my existing one.
I also understand the idea of a quicker acting BOV but it does not change the fact a 8 psi spring is not going to stay close during idle/vacuum on our cars, (like what was recommended to me). At least not getting vaccum from a direct source like the manifold like Tial recommends.
#1037
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Anyone know exactly how I am supposed to modify the coolant line to adapt it to the 2860? Both the 2860 and 2871 use the same CHRA. Why wouldnt the 2860 need the new coolant line that comes with the 2871? They have the same connections. Its not like stock. The stock K04 has the coolant connections on the same side of the CHRA whereas on the GT28 they are on opposite sides of each other. I suppose I can try and bend the coolant line to fit....
#1039
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Anyone know exactly how I am supposed to modify the coolant line to adapt it to the 2860? Both the 2860 and 2871 use the same CHRA. Why wouldnt the 2860 need the new coolant line that comes with the 2871? They have the same connections. Its not like stock. The stock K04 has the coolant connections on the same side of the CHRA whereas on the GT28 they are on opposite sides of each other. I suppose I can try and bend the coolant line to fit....
#1040
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
'Since the coolant ports are on opposite sides on the BNR CHRA (center housing rotating assembly), there will be a banjo fitting and coolant hose that is supplied with the turbocharger upgrades.'
#1041
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the coolant line that go on the side of the turbo facing the motor you have to flip it upside down and bend it just a little to get it to fit
#1044
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Well, finally got her on. The one I received was missing one of the studs that the elbow flange bolts on to and when I tried to put one of the ones from the stocker it wouldnt screw in...even with an impact. It was a pain and I didnt want to try tapping steel so I decided to go buy a nut and bolt and be done with it. It all worked out in the end. It was a learning experience for sure because those lines do not line up and it took some creative routing and bending to get it to work. Just waiting for BYT to send me a driveable tune cause shes knocking like crazy right now. I guess the E blend and different turbo are too many variables for the ECU. Here a re a few pics:
EDIT: The knock was caused by my fiddling with the WG rod trying to make it like stock. Bad idea. Basically it was keeping the WG open ALL the time.
EDIT: The knock was caused by my fiddling with the WG rod trying to make it like stock. Bad idea. Basically it was keeping the WG open ALL the time.
Last edited by cubaniche; 02-15-2011 at 03:34 PM.
#1050
Oh okay. Its just that I have info from BNR where he said he included a modified line saying that the 2860 didnt need it. Maybe he decided it wasnt necessary. I guess I will bend them to fit then. This is from the info:
'Since the coolant ports are on opposite sides on the BNR CHRA (center housing rotating assembly), there will be a banjo fitting and coolant hose that is supplied with the turbocharger upgrades.'
'Since the coolant ports are on opposite sides on the BNR CHRA (center housing rotating assembly), there will be a banjo fitting and coolant hose that is supplied with the turbocharger upgrades.'
My 2860 also has only 3 studs [Twilight Zone Theme].