I have replaced the sway bar end links with Moog. Also, new struts/shocks/springs (YYZ).

There is a clunk when going over speed bumps and down bumpy roads. The control arm bushings look good (I did not see any cracking in the rubber). I am thinking the steering intermediate shaft since there is some noise if I turn the steering wheel when the car is still. The nose seems like it is coming from the left side too.

Appreciate any recommendations for how to determine if the intermediate shaft is bad or what else to look for?

2009 SS/TC, 76K miles

Thanks!

 

I was having same issue and after sway bar bushing change it went away

 

Lift up the front end and use a pry bar and really test you suspension component and see if you can replicate the noise you are hearing, Save money rather than just throwing parts at it.

I don't know if there is a way or if you can test the intermediate shaft but hopefully who knows will chime in.

Hope this helps, Keep us posted

 

Just replaced my steering shaft, one U-joint axis was completely rusted in place, could not rotate by hand or be even standing on the shaft & putting other foot on the shaft on the other side of the U-joint. The main issue I had had for forever was rattling under low speed driving under bumps (like within 10k miles of getting the recall done) but after I let the car sit for a few weeks when I got a new car it got worse. At 90 degree points of the wheel the effort to turn would get crazy high (while turning) and you had to really muscle it to go back straight.

If you are turning and notice that at a certain angle there is less force needed to turn, but once you reach 90deg to the left or right the force goes up significantly it would be worth replacing. If you don't get any of that it may be something else.

 

Replaced the steering shaft this last weekend, and the rattle is gone. Pretty easy fix and only $70 from Rockauto. The u-joints were OK, but the strut-like part was catching and would not move smoothly.

If anyone replaces their steering shaft (intermediate shaft), the directions do not lie - do not move the steering wheel when the shaft is not connected. I had to get the steering wheel position sensor recalibrated from the dealer ($130). Thankfully that is all that was mess up. When the calibration is off, the ESC kicks on (at least you can turn it off).

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I am having this issue, what directions did you follow if you are willing to share? I am under the impression the noise is in the steering shaft as well.

 

Best thing to do there is to lock the wheel before you unbolt

 

There are several YouTube videos - just search cobalt steering shaft replacement, and you'll find it. I must have had my key in the ignition, since I could move the steering wheel. It is just one bolt on the steering rack and one bolt inside on the wheel, remove the bolts, spread apart the couplings where you removed the bolts with a screwdriver or something (I used an air hammer and it was simple), then pull off the shaft.

The only reason I moved the steering wheel was to get better access to the bolt inside the car. A box end wrench would have worked, I just did not have enough patience.