yeah 21-22 psi, a 60 whp bump seems pretty good. Those people above 320+ whp are at 24 psi and running Ethanol or some mix on the stock k04.

 

you see I'd agree with that but other lnfs right before and after me we're putting down 300-330, new si's making 170-180 speeds making sub 300 etc. Being at sea level helps, same dyno I hit last year on trifecta I made 300/350 with same temps/humidity

 

Did those lnfs have the same mods as you and the same tune by the same tuner? They could have been on E or spraying meth or higher boost for all you know. Or do you know what they had u weren't clear on that

 

all my friends and full boltons, locally tuned and trifecta tuned. One other term tuned made 346 local tune made 310 and trifecta made 330

 

Was that trifecta tune a 28 psi tune? I agree with the happy dyno. That or it a dyno like one place here, can't properly dyno cobalts for some reason, the numbers are all over the place. One will be way low the next to high

 

no it was a 23.5psi tune I believe. If I had to guess my numbers j would say 330, that's what I was hoping for anyway. My friend that's also tuned by term is putting his k04r on and will be dynoing on a mustang this summer hopefully.

 

Couldn't get a proper crank signal on a Dynojet. No Cobalt could.

Graph was super shaky, doubled my rpms and looked to cut torque in half. Dyno'd 256whp/ 264wtq on stock tune with catless downpipe.

Dyno numbers are about power gained before and after mods. High numbers are just bragging rights and mean nothing to most.

 

Well u guys thinking ur making 330 or more , stock turbo on those boost levels with those mods are dreaming. Find a new dyno .

 

Can you provide backup for the reason its dreaming?

330 is def reachable on a stock turbo on pump if they have access to good fuel and the tuner spends sometime getting things dialed in and knows what he's doing (and Term does).

 

all the local Balts I've been around have been easily 310+ but I guess all the dynos in my area are broken right.

Went back and watched alms videos from the day actually tell me if the dyno sounds broken

2013 si intake exhaust street tune 180whp150wtq

Srt4 neon "mopar stg1"
236whp

Gen2 Genesis 2.0t downpipe fmic cons tune
230whp/250wtq

numbers seem fine for those but my run it was broken I guess. I remember when people said 300whp wasn't possible on stock turbo

 

I'm talking cobalts, idk what the others do on mods and 310 I can see, but I'm talking 330 plus. U need a 28psi tune on stock turbo and an aggressive unsafe tune to reach 330whp. But I guess u guys ignore that fact that most every person on this site with those mods make from 300-315 or 20 with that kinda tune and anything less than 24 psi is around 280-310. How come suddenly cobalts are making these high numbers on one dyno. Weird. No doubt 330 can be reached but not with regular gas at 23ish psi

 

I would be happy with your gains at 20-22 psi. 60 whp is great. Sure you may be able to see 80whp gain but you need to be at 24 psi. Thats the happy boost number for k04s.

 

nah :-)

 

Lol ok, whatever makes u happy lol

 

With elevation, humidity and all the other variables you can't compare dyno numbers from different locations.

 

Yup, I made 285whp fully bolted on my GMS1 tune.

 

thanks

 

You guys need to realize dyno numbers mean almost nothing.

They're a tool for tuning.

Why did my car dyno 20whp higher than most stock LNF's? Because the dyno I used was calibrated incorrectly. Did it work to compare the relative difference in whp to my friends stage 2 LSJ that ran right after? Yup.

3 different dynos on different days will give different numbers. There is no consistency .

 

yup that's why I dynod on trifecta and then dynod again catless and hptuned. I just post my numbers and people get upset and I laugh

 

Some really good posts in this thread but in fact I have been talking to the OP and I suspect there are bigger issues out there beyond the age old discussion of (popcorn) numbers and open air road wheel dyno comparisons.

Lately ( and it makes sense, the youngest LNF is six years old) I am running into some really simple things that lead to bigger issues.

Folks are lately looking at PCV upgrade control for oil in the inlet, when in fact the barn door is open and the cattle all escaped already. The engine is hurt, in other words.

What I mean is this: basic checks, including a very important smoke test check and compression check should be done before attempting any tunes etc. Vacuum leaks will kill the car qwik. Then there is gasoline octane; these forced induction motors are all hungry for octane and trying to run on 91 even with a stock tune is probably not wise. Coked valves are a GDI fact of life, and PCV upgrades with an oil separator wont clean the valves, they must be clean already, then the upgrade will keep them that way. So clean valves and low ash engine oil, all well covered in the LNF valve gunk thread. No leaks.

No doubt the PCV upgrade we do is a big help, and we see benefits every day. The v.2/ v.3 versions really do a good job. But it cant fix a broken motor.

So if you take your car to a shop to be tuned, should the shop first do all these checks (smoke/compression/leak down etc) ? I would say yes, but the cost, which is generally 3-350 for tune, 100-150 for dyno time) would probably double. Then when smoke test reveals a leak at a sensor, charge pipe etc , then what? we are up at 700 dollars and you need to fix the leaking sensor. It could be a seal but it could be more than that.

For example, most aftermarket charge pipes have a welded on plate with two tapped holes for the stock MAP sensor. The three bar MAP sensor only has one mounting hole. A quick look will show that the threaded plate for the sensor is drilled, tapped and welded on all sides. NO problem, how can a blind threaded plate welded on to a pipe, leak?

It can, as the weld along the plate on four sides has to be perfect. And should be pressure checked. Its not. So way too often I find the smoke test finds the threaded unused hole is leaking.

NOT GOOD. Now you can maybe ghetto it by putting a bolt with pipe thread sealant in the unused hole. Its a 4 or 5 mm bolt, but what shop has these on hand? Take off the pipe and re weld it or replace it? maybe the best, but its time and money.

A smoke test machine costs about $1200. I regard smoke test machines as an essential tool for all diagnostics of modern engines, but particularly modified Forced induction engines.

Most shops should have smoke test machines, but don't.

But what I am saying here is this: if the customer asks for a service ( clean my valves/tune my car/install these charge pipes) then should the shop charge what it takes to do a compression test/smoke test/leak down as part of the job?

The cost will rise dramatically.

When asked to clean valves on a GDI engine I always do a compression test first. That's part of the job and part of what I charge 600 dollars for. I also change the oil and filter afterwards, use a new PCV valve if that remains and a new inlet manifold gasket. And walnut shell blast the valves use GM cleaner for touch up, and hot tank the inlet manifold after cleaning it in a hydrofluoric solution. Its a pretty crummy messy job and the clean up afterwards takes time. But I have not included smoke testing in the protocol, and I am thinking I need to change the protocol to include that, particularly if the customer has just put on new charge pipes etc. How good a job have they done with the installation?

I had a trifecta tuned car in for valve cleaning recently. Well looked after; there was excellent compression but a lot of black oil/ and a slight gas smell everywhere. I was concerned, but as compression was good, leak down good , and the customer intended to go get tuned and get rid of trifecta, I figured all bases were covered. They were not.

Afterwards a week or so after, the car was smoking and the customer checked and said the the turbo shaft has a lot of play and the seals were bad. In retrospect, I should have inspected the turbo for shaft play. It would have been easy enough with the inlet tube removed.

I didn't.

So for the OP, before tuning, in retrospect, I think compression test/leakdown test/smoke test would have been essential items to be done. ANY vacuum leaks will be fatal to your motor.

I also recommend using the highest octane possible; here in Canada that means 94 octane or e85 in a very few places. In the USA 93 octane or e85. I would not under any circumstances use 91 on any forced induction engine other than an occasional top up to get to a 93/94 pump.

Sad for the OP. Its a hard road ahead if the engine is hurt.

 

personally I think the increase hes seeing are right on target for a 20 psi tune.

 

Lol all we have here in NS is 91 octane province wide

 

Thanks a lot Powell. My ***** just shrank and now all I can think about is doing compression and smoke tests on my car.

Oh and I can tell you are right about the octane. GMS1 tends to have a lot of false and real knock on 91.

Makes me want to just run a GMS1 tune with an update to E20-30.

 

It all depends on the dyno TBH.

I did 330/380 on a mustang and 330/400 on a load bearing dynojet.
I am also on E47.

ALL dynos have some variance, most a considerable difference. Personally the only time a dyno is reliable is showing gains by doing consecutive runs OR if your running 2 cars back to back that you are comparing on the same dyno.

OP: I'd take those numbers with a grain of salt. A 60hp gain is good for 91/93 numbers.

 

I wish you weren't in Canada. I need to find someone to clean the valves for me and having someone do it who is thorough as you sounds like it might be hard to find