In the market for a LNF SS... What do I look for?
09-02-2016 | 10:48 AM
#26
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From: NJ
09-02-2016 | 12:38 PM
#27
But if its OEM, as said, 100k miles should be when they are changed. Timing chain should be changed at 150k I believe. Dont quote me on that. Clutch is probably needing to be replaced but you wont know till you drive it.
I still have my stock clutch at almost 100k miles and most of that was tuned. Its a strong clutch lol.
09-06-2016 | 12:06 PM
#32
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From: NJ
Checking out the car today!
haha and super out of my price range
I will see if this car falls through
haha and super out of my price range
I will see if this car falls through
09-06-2016 | 08:41 PM
#33
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From: NJ
Car was pretty banged up. Recently had front bumper/drivers fender replaced. Bumper doesn't line up correctly. Rust on drivers rear door. scratches EVERYWHERE. wheels are in bad shape. Left front suspension needs work. Clunk out of rear. Tear in rear seat. Oil leak (valve cover?). Has 2 different headlights (body shop gave wrong light on drivers side). Car runs good tho damn lol.
09-07-2016 | 12:01 PM
#35
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From: Alberta
Car was pretty banged up. Recently had front bumper/drivers fender replaced. Bumper doesn't line up correctly. Rust on drivers rear door. scratches EVERYWHERE. wheels are in bad shape. Left front suspension needs work. Clunk out of rear. Tear in rear seat. Oil leak (valve cover?). Has 2 different headlights (body shop gave wrong light on drivers side). Car runs good tho damn lol.
Suspension sounds like an easy fix if you can do it yourself. Headlights can be bought cheap.
I guess it depends, what is your plan with the car?
09-07-2016 | 12:03 PM
#36
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From: NJ
The rust is like a chip on the outside edge maybe a half an inch long. The scratches are a mix, but I don't think any pierced the clearcoat.
Suspension is probably the "compliance"? bushings... Control arm, etc. Those are easy and I can do it myself.
Headlights I planned on throwing in my TRS D2S projectors in a new set that I tear apart.
My plan is to DD it. Nothing crazy. I just want a quick boosted DD lol
Suspension is probably the "compliance"? bushings... Control arm, etc. Those are easy and I can do it myself.
Headlights I planned on throwing in my TRS D2S projectors in a new set that I tear apart.
My plan is to DD it. Nothing crazy. I just want a quick boosted DD lol
09-07-2016 | 12:05 PM
#37
The rust is like a chip on the outside edge maybe a half an inch long. The scratches are a mix, but I don't think any pierced the clearcoat.
Suspension is probably the "compliance"? bushings... Control arm, etc. Those are easy and I can do it myself.
Headlights I planned on throwing in my TRS D2S projectors in a new set that I tear apart.
My plan is to DD it. Nothing crazy. I just want a quick boosted DD lol
Suspension is probably the "compliance"? bushings... Control arm, etc. Those are easy and I can do it myself.
Headlights I planned on throwing in my TRS D2S projectors in a new set that I tear apart.
My plan is to DD it. Nothing crazy. I just want a quick boosted DD lol
yet every car meet i go to people look the other way of my car.
09-07-2016 | 12:11 PM
#38
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From: NJ
09-07-2016 | 01:10 PM
#39
09-07-2016 | 01:50 PM
#41
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From: Alberta
The rust is like a chip on the outside edge maybe a half an inch long. The scratches are a mix, but I don't think any pierced the clearcoat.
Suspension is probably the "compliance"? bushings... Control arm, etc. Those are easy and I can do it myself.
Headlights I planned on throwing in my TRS D2S projectors in a new set that I tear apart.
My plan is to DD it. Nothing crazy. I just want a quick boosted DD lol
Suspension is probably the "compliance"? bushings... Control arm, etc. Those are easy and I can do it myself.
Headlights I planned on throwing in my TRS D2S projectors in a new set that I tear apart.
My plan is to DD it. Nothing crazy. I just want a quick boosted DD lol
I think it still sounds like a good deal.. Most of the work required like the CABs will be required on any cobalt.
09-07-2016 | 01:57 PM
#42
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From: NJ
If you have a good detailer or go on reddit you should be able to fix those scratches so I wouldnt worry. Rust is something I would worry about so I would suggest checking under the car by the pinch welds on the frame. Thats where the rust starts and then spreads to the rockers and wheel wells.
I think it still sounds like a good deal.. Most of the work required like the CABs will be required on any cobalt.
I think it still sounds like a good deal.. Most of the work required like the CABs will be required on any cobalt.
I know about rust... took me a month to find a non rust 2nd gen legacy hahaha
09-08-2016 | 10:12 PM
#43
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From: canada
Originally Posted by ThoR294
Yes, again, I am looking. I'm so ******* bored with my G5. I need a DD that has some spunk plus I'd like to own something with a turdbo.
Anyway, is there a certain checklist besides normal car stuff I should look for on these cars? What is a common problem with them, and what options make a car more worthwhile? I noticed all LNF cars have LSD/brembos, at least I think.
There is a 2009 SS Sedan near me that is bone stock, 1 owner, 140k miles. Typical curb rash on wheels and some chips in paint, but its clean
OUCH
$6000 is the price. Whats the $$ range for these cars? Sedans are worth more right?
Thanks all
Anyway, is there a certain checklist besides normal car stuff I should look for on these cars? What is a common problem with them, and what options make a car more worthwhile? I noticed all LNF cars have LSD/brembos, at least I think.
There is a 2009 SS Sedan near me that is bone stock, 1 owner, 140k miles. Typical curb rash on wheels and some chips in paint, but its clean
OUCH
$6000 is the price. Whats the $$ range for these cars? Sedans are worth more right?
Thanks all
09-08-2016 | 11:20 PM
#44
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From: NJ
(can see my scubaru wagon in the reflection)
He took my offer of $5k.
Now that I have driven the car a bit... I noticed:
- Cruise doesn't work (lights up but wont engage, probably neutral safety switch on clutch pedal)
- Vibration through wheel when I punch it (definitely feels like axles)
- Low Coolant light came on... noticed res was a little below full line. How sensitive are these?
- Valve cover leak, might do tensioner/chain along with that.
- ******* curb rash
- scratches errrwhere (clear coat, so hopefully can polish out)
09-09-2016 | 03:29 PM
#45
Low coolant light is generally porous block
Run far away from this.
I said run don't walk.
I have had low coolant light twice in 8 years. both just minor fills, but on a used car there is no way I'd take the risk.
Run far away from this.
I said run don't walk.
I have had low coolant light twice in 8 years. both just minor fills, but on a used car there is no way I'd take the risk.
09-09-2016 | 03:32 PM
#46
low coolant light does not mean its a porus block!! i had a porus block and they only occur at under 30K miles man. in my cobalt my low coolant light was very picky. get yourself some dex cool and put some in it. also if you want to know if you have a porus block or not, check your oil and see if its milky or not. but i can guarantee you its not a porus block. you would have ran out of coolant by now in just a day.
09-09-2016 | 03:36 PM
#47
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From: NJ
low coolant light does not mean its a porus block!! i had a porus block and they only occur at under 30K miles man. in my cobalt my low coolant light was very picky. get yourself some dex cool and put some in it. also if you want to know if you have a porus block or not, check your oil and see if its milky or not. but i can guarantee you its not a porus block. you would have ran out of coolant by now in just a day.
09-09-2016 | 03:39 PM
#48
I checked oil and coolant before I bought it... Always do. Oil was oil color and coolant was coolant color. I don't think its a bad block. The coolant was a tad under the full line, so I topped it off, like maybe a cup of distilled water. Now light is gone.
Yeah this car has original block 140k miles. haha. Coolant was a LITTLE BIT low.
Yeah this car has original block 140k miles. haha. Coolant was a LITTLE BIT low.
09-09-2016 | 04:02 PM
#49
It can happen at any time or mileage.
The crappy part is, you can't test it without having it for a few days.
We have seen a half dozen cars dumped on the market with this issue, only to screw the new buyer.
This may not be the case here, but I'd be weary.
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09-09-2016 | 04:09 PM
#50
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From: NJ
That's not even remotely true. We have seen several people fail at over 100k miles.
It can happen at any time or mileage.
The crappy part is, you can't test it without having it for a few days.
We have seen a half dozen cars dumped on the market with this issue, only to screw the new buyer.
This may not be the case here, but I'd be weary.
It can happen at any time or mileage.
The crappy part is, you can't test it without having it for a few days.
We have seen a half dozen cars dumped on the market with this issue, only to screw the new buyer.
This may not be the case here, but I'd be weary.
I hope it's not, but I'm watching my coolant/oil.