ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I havent spent much time thinking about what parts will be needed, but just a quick thought it seems like you'd only need 6clamps which would give you the ability to adjust the maf location pretty easy

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Now that I am thinking about it, I have a spare 90^ coupler. Maybe I should just cut the dent out of the 90 degree in my ZZP lower and put a coupler there.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I also had Treadstones Lower CP before my ZZP ones

They dont include a vacuum nipple or anything so your BPV/BOV will stay open. It fit like ****, and they didn't drill the MAP Sensor hole correctly which in turn caused a massive boost leak. I returned their ****.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

OTTP will probably hook me up.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I am moving the MAF to the intake today and seeing if anything changes.

I am also sating to wonder if maybe some of the passages inside the IC are dirty and possibly causing turbulence?

Maybe the wastegate actuator is bad causing the wastegate to fluctuate sending pulses?

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

take the intercooler off and check for oil. Ecaulk's car had a lot of oil in his intercooler due to the PO putting a blown turbo on.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I wouldnt see the dirty ic passages causing turbulence that far away. If the airflow jumps quickly its something else, hopefully the previous guy who tune the balt didnt mess with the OT and OS tables not sure if they would cause that really high reading all of a sudden though

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

If it was oil hitting his maf the reading would be off all the time

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I had the IC off. It had water in it, but I cleaned it all out. Water was likely from the car sitting for 6 weeks with an open IC.

Does anyone have a MAF wiring diagram?
I want to find the pins on the ECU that go to the MAF. Connect a 9v battery to the wire and multimeter the other end. Make sure the voltage is the same or find a break if there is one.

Grave

iTrader: (7)

There is a diagram on the previous page. I only have one complete intake unfortunately that I would like to keep. I have a spare filter housing, but must have gave the intake tube away.

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

"punch the previous owner in the face crew"

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I am the founder soon.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I see that now. I guess I only need to test 3 of the 5 wires since the IAT portion works 100% of the time.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

you have some patience to deal with these problems. I'd of burned the car to the ground

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I mean when I see some one pulling out and the accident is 100% not going to be my fault; I don't slow down or anything...

The biggest issue is the inconsistency of it. When I came home Sunday night I drove two hours, boosted, and beat the car. It was flawless. This morning, hesitation, knock, maf issues. On my way home, ran fine. There has to be a maf issue in the connector or wiring. I'm moving the MAF back to the intake and flashing on a new tune. I doubt it will change anything, but it will further confirm it's wiring or PCM related. I may need a new PCM to try for a few days to see if the issues stop if the wires are fine.

Ps. Anyone ever open the wire loom on a LNF? Why is stuff heat shrunk from the factory?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Wait, its heat shrunk from the factory? I'm about to go open the wire loom to see if its actually heat shrunk.

Grave

iTrader: (7)

I didn't notice any heatshrink in either of my harnesses. Just a lot of tape. I ended up replacing the engine harness after finding more bad spots in the wiring.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

yeah I have no heatshrink on mine. just tape

Kyle09TC

iTrader: (1)

If you need a new ECU hit me up. 120 shipped from canada from a 2009. i will send a picture with my username and date if you're interested.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I'm logging onto my computer to post pics.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I am talking about the largest loom the maf wiring feeds into. I opened it and started pulling it back towards the dipstick tube...

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Is this what you bought?

20782130 Cobalt LNF Engine Harness 2008-2010

Grave

iTrader: (7)

Yep. If you do get it, make sure you repin it for the 3 bar sensors if you're using them, instead of soldering, butt connectors, etc. There is a site that sells the correct connector and pins. You would need a crimper as well.

The connector stuff should be here somewhere.
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind.../cPath/109_136

Here it is
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1625

Now that you posted those pictures, I do remember seeing that. They must use that to cover a splice or to join multiple wires.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Made a thread for some screen shots I would like here:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/tuni...e-here-315463/

I did what 1Panel2nv suggested and could not get any fluctuation in the MAF signal. Moved the wires every which was I could, pulled, yanked, etc. I took a snapshot of my VCM scanner. Car is off, key is ON, and log started. Can anyone else that has a MAF relocate do the same thing and post it up? I am curious to see if there is anything different in mine.

Another thing that happened is the battery died while I was doing this; like 5 minutes in. Pretty sure it has some bad cells. Getting it tested after work. I have seen bad batteries cause all sorts of weird issues in cars that use 5v references so maybe my issue surfaced there?

Also, I noticed that my WBo2 takes about 60 seconds to start metering. During the heat up time the car runs like **** now. Once it starts working everything it reads is very lean. My old WBo2 would heat up in about 15 seconds. Sensor on its way out?

I also pulled the manifold MAP and it had the blue o-ring on it. Replaced it with the correct black one.