63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Gap look ok on pulled plugs?

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

The old ones, no. They were gapped too much.

New ones idk. I put them in at .032". I'm gonna pull and check tonight

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

So just to make sure the info is added for anyone else having issues:

My MAF inconsistency problems and fuel trims issues all stemmed from the vent solenoid on the EVAP canister. Running the car without the 2 EVAP solenoids cleaned up all of my issues.

So if you have weird MAF flow and fuel trims, change both EVAP solenoids. Its 30 bucks and 10 minutes of work that can cause SOOOO many issues elsewhere. Oh, and they never threw a code either.

Terminator2

I hate that they never throw codes either. Makes diagnosis really difficult.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Interesting.

Glad you found the issue Corey

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I think it is because the car does not continuously test the EVAP system.



Testing them:

To test if the EVAP system is causing your symptoms unclip the red connector on the intake mani solenoid. Reset the fuel trims and drive the car. If the issues clear up then your problem is the EVAP.

To decide if it is the rear one:
Run the car with the system connected. Shut it off. Unclip the EVAP line on top of manifold solenoid. If it shoots off or has pressure in it; your rear solenoid is bad. If it does not, your manifold one is bad.

I recommend just replacing both regardless tho.

Terminator2

Ready to crank the tune up a bit if we can? If so send me a log.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I need to just change my rear evap as preventive maintenance

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Yuppppppp.

Did you get the one I sent you Friday morning?

I will have another one from you later this evening. I am still in Ohio now. Flight leaves in 4 hours.

Terminator2

I don't think I saw that one. I have a full kill file ready. I yanked 2* of timing for now to be safe. Basically maxing the turbo except it should not spike too hard I have the max air load torque tapering in to help that.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I'll resend it. I'm excite.

I'm stil in ohio tho. I get in tomorrow about 9am. I missed my flight today.

DarrenWS6

I've spent the majority of my computer time reading up your thread today. I can't grasp the thought of going through all of this and having someone actually sell such a finger tight bolted up car to someone. Very high respect to you for sticking with it and bringing it back to life over the last few months. I've learned a couple things and feel better about buying an LNF now. I definitely want a pretty much stock car, but I believe I will steer clear of ZZP's charge pipes and any motor mounts at all. I think GM Stage 1 performance with a catless DP and a cat-back for tone will suit me just fine.

Good work on your car and glad to see you never gave up on it!

On a side note, you mentioned talking with your lawyer about purchasing such an 'undescribed condition' vehicle, did anything ever come of this? I would hope you got some justice here. If not, i'm sure that guy will never show himself around these forums again.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Car is getting low false knock again primarily on number 4. I have it narrowed down to my blown TOB and shitty clutch making a ton of noise. Car false knocks whenever the clutch slips lol.

Ordered a new flywheel, bolts, TOB, and clutch. Also snagged some steering rack spacers. Grabbed it all for my buddy to. Plus got him a braided clutch line that I recommend to everyone!
We have one fat ass package full of awesome on its way to me!! <3333

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

The motor mounts are fine, they just accented a problem that was underlying.

Get an HP tune; wayyyyy better.

Not really because I would have to prove that he knew. Had he signed something saying the car was inspected then it would have been easy to sue him.
Basically, get an inspection. Lol.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I am replacing my bypass valve solenoid with one of these:


It run directly from the IM since I removed my vacuum box.
It will have the lower CP on the last port and the BPV in the middle. Once I swap to a BOV it will run off of this too. I figure that having the lower CP vacuum line on it wont hurt anything and it is easier than capping it off.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I am so over this car. I have the knock down to <3.0 and only on number 4. Figured it was the TOB/clutch making noise and already bought parts for a new one.

So I do pads and rotors all around on Monday. Double checked everything per usual with the car; all tight and aligned. Drop her down and go for a drive. 12 degrees knock on 1-2 and 3-4 follow suite around 8 degrees. What in the actual **** is wrong with this piece of **** car?!?!!?!?! Nothing makes sense and I am so over it.

On my way to work a truck was running the light and I just hit the gas and held on. He missed me by about a foot sadly. At this point it would be a blessing if it got creamed, burned or stolen.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I am running out of ideas on things to replace that can cause knock. I am installing new knock sensors today. New plugs as well. I am going to try and grab some new coil packs as well.


If I do a write all on the ECU with a new tune, does that put everything back? What I mean is, if the PO had codes turned off and I do a write all, would they be turned back on or would I have to go through the list and make sure they are all set the proper way?

Terminator2

I did not see any important ones turned off. Knock sensors are likely picking up noise from somewhere 12* of knock on 8-14* of timing is insane.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Holy ****...are his LFTF or STFT way way out?

Terminator2

I have not seen a log since he fixed the evap issues.

SuperSquirrel

iTrader: (1)

Sub'd... finally. It's only been a few months. It's crazy how many problems this car is having. I hope you get it straightened out Corey.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I emailed two along with the tune I am currently using.

So last night I added 2mm preload to my wastegate rod, replaced the 3-4 knock sensor, replaced the plugs (OEM gapped .030"), and rearranged coil packs (just because). I drove the car last night and it was mostly fine. Had no knock at all for a while, then would get random spikes in the higher load, lower RPM range of less than 2 degree. It was also only on the 1-2 sensor. After about 20 minutes I was like cool; something I did worked. I figured I would order another sensor and replace the 1-2 one and finally be done with this. Wong. This morning, car is just as bad as it was before. Up to 12 degrees all over, failing the MAF, knocking when I free rev the car, everywhere.

My Oxygen Sensor passes, but the Oxygen Sensor Heater never does.

I am leaning to maybe the PCM is bad? I have a spare coming my way to test that theory.

I am really beginning to wish I kept my LSJ and just went turbo on it.

Terminator2

When? Send again please I do not see the logs.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

This morning. Like an hour ago.


I did again.

Terminator2

Ah ok. I am on my phone right now my tuning laptop is at home I will have a look
Later.