So I have a 2008 cobalt SS that sat for 3 years not being cranked. It had issues and I had no time.

So after dropping in a new battery and changing the oil. The security light was on and had me locked out. The relearn process was a failure so I had it towed to the dealer. Turns out, there were some wires broken under the steering column, so i had that fixed and recalls up to date, then towed back home.

It wasnt pulling boost (previous problem) i got up under and the condenser bar was gone on the intercooler and the plastic end tank had a gaping hole. I replaced the stock intercooler with a Hahn's and their piping as well. She cranks and pulls full boost fine. zzp tune on it btw

So here's where I'm at now and need advice...

1. I dont like the hahn's piping... too many connections! too many clamps..(ive had one section blow off and had to tighten) been fine so far but it worries me when i really push it. Any piping suggestions? will anything else fit the Hahn's intercooler?

2. I bought drilled and slotted rotors for the front and back... the fronts wobble like they are warped but that cant be possible... anyone else have this? recommend rotors that has served you well.. and pads.

3. Anything I should do since it sat so long? I treated what fuel was in the tank and filled the rest with 93. Changed the oil.

4. My esc is off and traction control as well.. neither work.. Anyone know what causes this?

5. I want to upgrade my downpipe and exhaust. I want the 3in exhaust no res no muffler i think.. but for the downpipe i wanna go catless and i know theres the tune to cut off the code but how do you guys pass inspection if they actually look under the vehicle??

I think thats it for now..

 

If you don't want to spend big bucks on piping I would just recommend the t-band clamps (can't remember if that's what they are called) but they aren't a worm style clamp and hold much better.
Stock tc rotors and pads are actually very good. Not autozone, but factory stuff as they are brembo's.
Traction control is probably either a wiring issue going to your speed sensor in 1 of your wheel hubs, or you have a bad hub. You could hook it up to a scanner and it should tell you where it's getting the fault from. If it sat that long it wouldn't surprise me if a mouse chewed a wire.
Go catted downpipe unless you want crazy raspy while you are driving. You will need it for emission check. It's only a couple hp less if any.

 

Good advise ^

For the wobble if it sat without rolling it could be the tires have flat spots

 

I drove it some today around the back roads.. (no tags on it yet) im trying to finish everything before paying for tags and insurance. where do you order oem stuff from... the dealer charge and arm and a leg... And as far as the piping i did find a t-bolt clamp at autozone.. they do hold better.

I feel like they should have told me everything that was wrong for the 100 bucks you have to pay for diagnostic at the dealership here. lol.. ill run the codes tomorow or sunday and let you guys know what all codes im throwing.

The the wobble is only when braking from like 45+ mph. The rotors just shake my steering wheel rather hard.. Im gonna check rock auto for oem unless you have better suggestions.

I do have a loud droning sound from around the passenger front tire...could that be the wheel hub? or Bearings?

 

I always use crateenginedepo.com they have a special "Cobalt store" and are a factory gm supplier.
Sounds like you could have a stuck caliper that may be causing the noise or you could have a wheel bearing starting to go out. You also could have a warped rotor if the wheel wobbles. But that could have been caused from a sticky caliper.

 

I've also had the wobble under braking due to a bad TCAB bushing

 

Great Ill check all that stuff out and run the codes and then update you guys!

 

So theres no CEL but the dash says SERVICE ESC , SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL , SERVICE TIRE MONITOR