08-10 SS Turbocharged General Discussion Discuss the 2008 - 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS Turbocharged. On sale since the second quarter of 2008.

OK to drive with no boost?

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Old 11-09-2015 | 11:30 AM
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From: Troy, Mi
OK to drive with no boost?

Was driving the car kinda hard last nite, pulled in the garage and didn't really give the turbo much time to cool down. Car smelled a little sulfury, thought it was just the tires.
Started out to work this morning, realized I had no boost after a mile, didn't want to be late, so drove it the rest of the way.

Is it OK to drive it home? It seems to be driving fine but no power of course. I want to get it home and pull the intake to check the turbo. No mods or tune, just stage 1 kit.
Old 11-09-2015 | 11:34 AM
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My car did exactly the same thing this morning. No boost and a little whistling when I first started it. No smoke or smell.
Old 11-09-2015 | 11:38 AM
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Just curious, when you get home and start looking at it, could you take a few pictures of where stuff is and what it's called so when I get home tomorrow I will be able to look also, and maybe see where things are in case of same problem of a bolt loose or hose? Thank you.
Old 11-09-2015 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by CobaltSSTC
My car did exactly the same thing this morning. No boost and a little whistling when I first started it. No smoke or smell.
I had a cute little whistle like that when the main engine wire loom was pinched on the high pressure fuel pump and threw the car into engine power reduced mode.

Do you guys have any CELs?
Old 11-09-2015 | 11:51 AM
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From: Troy, Mi
No cels.....nothing to indicate a problem except Boost Gauge 0.00, and well no power.


Originally Posted by umrdyldo
I had a cute little whistle like that when the main engine wire loom was pinched on the high pressure fuel pump and threw the car into engine power reduced mode.

Do you guys have any CELs?
Old 11-09-2015 | 11:57 AM
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Yeah man no problem.

Originally Posted by CobaltSSTC
Just curious, when you get home and start looking at it, could you take a few pictures of where stuff is and what it's called so when I get home tomorrow I will be able to look also, and maybe see where things are in case of same problem of a bolt loose or hose? Thank you.
Old 11-09-2015 | 12:02 PM
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Unless your turbo swapped a little idle (10-15seconds) before shut down in fine. The stock turbo is oil lubricated, water cooled. So after shut down the coolant still will flow through the turbo (thermodynamics at work).

The sulfur like smell generally indicates an issue with the cat, the no boost/power generally is a boost leak. If you can on your lunch break start the car up and go for a little drive, give it quarter/half throttle and see if a P0101 pops up.
Old 11-09-2015 | 12:05 PM
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No messages here either. Car runs good besides it just being a 4 cyl. now. Thank you axmonkey. If it is easier to do unless you want to share on this board the pictures, I could always send you me cell number to send any photos or tips to look for if you find something,
Old 11-09-2015 | 12:37 PM
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WTF took it out at lunch, now I'm getting 5-10lbs boost. Which is way better than the zero I was getting this morning but nothing near normal. It was pretty cold this morning....idk if that would have anything to do with it. BTW only 36K miles. Took a look at the IC, everything looks OK, no obvious wacks in it. No codes either.


Originally Posted by ECaulk
Unless your turbo swapped a little idle (10-15seconds) before shut down in fine. The stock turbo is oil lubricated, water cooled. So after shut down the coolant still will flow through the turbo (thermodynamics at work).

The sulfur like smell generally indicates an issue with the cat, the no boost/power generally is a boost leak. If you can on your lunch break start the car up and go for a little drive, give it quarter/half throttle and see if a P0101 pops up.
Old 11-09-2015 | 03:17 PM
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you should be seeing a CEL. no boost is an indication of a leak (or blown turbo). You can here the turbo whistling its got to be a leak. Nothing to do with your hard pull unless you ran something over that smashed your intercooler.
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Old 11-09-2015 | 03:35 PM
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5psi is an indication that it is in limp mode usually quit beating on it.

Here is the how to boost leak test.
2.0 LNF Engine Boost leak test a stock SS LNF. - Cobalt SS Network

Make sure to actually hook a scanner up to it. Might have pending codes that haven't set a light off.
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Old 11-09-2015 | 04:58 PM
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electronic wastegate harness
Old 11-09-2015 | 09:19 PM
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Got a code on the way home, p0101, I'm going to assume a boost leak at this point. Going to park it until I can can get the money for a new IC. The bit that holds the condenser tube on the driver side is already busted off, rigged that back up, but I'm guessing that end tank is probably going.

CobaltSSTC, sorry man, I'm not going to pull the intake now.
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Old 11-09-2015 | 09:48 PM
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It's cool. I appreciate it though. So it put a light or message on your instrument panel?
Old 11-10-2015 | 12:50 AM
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Are u sure its the ic or assuming?
Old 11-10-2015 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by axmonkey
Got a code on the way home, p0101, I'm going to assume a boost leak at this point. Going to park it until I can can get the money for a new IC. The bit that holds the condenser tube on the driver side is already busted off, rigged that back up, but I'm guessing that end tank is probably going.

CobaltSSTC, sorry man, I'm not going to pull the intake now.
Build a boost leak tester and be sure thats what it is, there is a good chance that is the only issue, but there is a chance you have a leak in another spot and the two are enough for the code
Old 11-10-2015 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by axmonkey
Got a code on the way home, p0101, I'm going to assume a boost leak at this point. Going to park it until I can can get the money for a new IC. The bit that holds the condenser tube on the driver side is already busted off, rigged that back up, but I'm guessing that end tank is probably going.

CobaltSSTC, sorry man, I'm not going to pull the intake now.
Generally if the condensor is broken of then you would have a pretty good leak

and yes P0101 is a boost leak.
Old 11-15-2015 | 06:56 PM
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Yeah the check engine light went on.

Originally Posted by CobaltSSTC
It's cool. I appreciate it though. So it put a light or message on your instrument panel?
Old 11-15-2015 | 06:59 PM
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Already have one. Like I said the IC already has that busted bit so I'm going to replace it. Once I get the front end off will probably be easier to find and fix any other leaks if they exist.

Originally Posted by ECaulk
Build a boost leak tester and be sure thats what it is, there is a good chance that is the only issue, but there is a chance you have a leak in another spot and the two are enough for the code
Old 11-15-2015 | 07:10 PM
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Condenser isn't broken, the plastic part of the end tank that holds it up on the drivers side is busted off. Zip tie and gorilla tape mounted it back up, fixed THAT boost leak. It would only cause a leak if I hit a good bump or if the wind was right on the freeway when it was swingin free. Took it to 2 dealers that couldn't figure out that problem, morons. I suppose whatever the seal is on the passenger side could be messed up, but it ran for months with the tie/tape fix. I don't drive it in the winter, so I'll have plenty of time to mess with it.


Originally Posted by umrdyldo
Generally if the condensor is broken of then you would have a pretty good leak

and yes P0101 is a boost leak.
Old 11-15-2015 | 07:15 PM
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Here's a pic of the end tank damage, at the condenser tube, if anyone is interested.
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Old 11-16-2015 | 10:23 AM
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tape to fix a boost leak? Now I really think you have a boost leak.

If you hit the intercooler enough to break the tabs you could have easily done damage elsewhere.

I would remove the bumper and do a boost test and check everywhere on the intercooler.

A small leak will throw a P0101
Old 11-16-2015 | 10:36 AM
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take the bumper off and check the whole intercooler out.
Old 11-17-2015 | 06:47 PM
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The tape/tie was to remount the drivers side of the condenser tube to stop it from moving and causing a leak on the pass. side where it actually connects to the IC. There was no obvious crack in the tank and no leaks when boost leak tested, after that fix. But yeah I'll be taking it apart in the next 3 months or so.

Originally Posted by umrdyldo
tape to fix a boost leak? Now I really think you have a boost leak.

If you hit the intercooler enough to break the tabs you could have easily done damage elsewhere.

I would remove the bumper and do a boost test and check everywhere on the intercooler.

A small leak will throw a P0101
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