Rear Brakes FILE COMPLAINT HERE SO WE CAN GET A RECALL
#551
I've had no problems here in So Calif. I'm about to change the rears on my TC and will use the newer Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. Part #PD1095. Since it's the rear, I'm too concerened about MAXIMUM performance. Just less dust and noise. Try them!
Link:
TQ EDGE : The Most Technologically Advanced Brake Pad for Today's Vehicles
Link:
TQ EDGE : The Most Technologically Advanced Brake Pad for Today's Vehicles
#552
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Advanced Auto web site has my car listed and when that part is entered it shows that it won't fit the Cobalt. I saw a pic and they look similar as far as shape, but the backing on the pads looks different.
#553
Funny..I did two searches on application. Rock Auto only shows SAAB for this pad.
Advanced Auto web site has my car listed and when that part is entered it shows that it won't fit the Cobalt. I saw a pic and they look similar as far as shape, but the backing on the pads looks different.
Advanced Auto web site has my car listed and when that part is entered it shows that it won't fit the Cobalt. I saw a pic and they look similar as far as shape, but the backing on the pads looks different.
For an '08 SS TC, Advance lists the pads as part number 1033 for the rear in every brand except for the Thermoquiets, which is completely wrong.
I have the QC1095A pads in the rear and they fit perfectly just like the OEM pads.
#554
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Yea the catalogs are incorrect, the people that make the listings are retarded and obviously don't understand that not every trim is the same within a car model.
For an '08 SS TC, Advance lists the pads as part number 1033 for the rear in every brand except for the Thermoquiets, which is completely wrong.
I have the QC1095A pads in the rear and they fit perfectly just like the OEM pads.
For an '08 SS TC, Advance lists the pads as part number 1033 for the rear in every brand except for the Thermoquiets, which is completely wrong.
I have the QC1095A pads in the rear and they fit perfectly just like the OEM pads.
I also have Thermoquiet fronts MX1379 which I'll also put on.
BTW, how did those work out for you?
#555
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Update..returned Organic for Ceramic. They are identical shapes, but ceramics have MOLDED INTERNAL SHIMS. Too bad web sites don't show ceramics for this application. In fact, the OEMS were prolly ceramic or semi metallic. You can also get these in Semi metallic, MX1095. These look identical to Organics with metal external shims. Too aggressive in my opinion.
PD1095 Organics
QC1095A ceramic..note integrated molded shims
Last edited by ronn; 01-16-2011 at 03:22 AM.
#556
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I just bought a 2010 SS............
Hey guys, I just bought a Victory Red Cobalt SS YESTERDAY. Do the 2010 models have the same problem with rear brakes, or did GM fix the issues for the 2010 model year?
Thanks.......
Thanks.......
#557
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Bill Dayton
09 Cobalt SS, Victory Red, G85, RPG (no sunroof)
#558
Organics tend to be quiet and are original equipment on many Asian cars. They are one of the cheapest pads on the market as far as cost. The downsides are that they have poor heat transfer which can induce fade, and they still make a quite a lot of brake dust.
Ceramics are essentinally organic-based pads with ceramic compounds. High quality ceramic pads, such as Wagners, often contain copper fibers as well. They are more durable than organic pads, have better heat transfer, and are the lowest dusting pad you can buy. They are original equipment on almost every car on the market today with the exception of heavy duty trucks and high performance cars.
Semi-metallic brake pads offer the best performance out of all the pads. They have the best heat transfer and are very durable during performance driving or heavy duty use. They produce the most brake dust, and semi-metallic dust is the worst because the electrostatically charged metal particles eat into the wheel finish over time. However, if you plan on using the car at the track, semi-metallic pads will give you the best performance. This is why they come stock on the front of the SS T/C and other high performance cars like Corvettes, Camaros, CTS-V, SRT-8, Mustang GT, Viper, ect.
My reccommendation would be to run semi-metallic (stock) pads in the front and ceramics or organics in the rear. You could also run ceramics in the front to reduce brake dust, but only if you do not plan on doing any track driving.
I run the stock Ferodo semi-metallics in the front (came with the car) and Wagner QC1095A's in the rear. The brake dust from the front pads sucks, but its a trade off for performance. I'd probably consider EBC or Hawk ceramics for the front next time around since my car doesn't see track useage. The rear Wagner ceramics have been good, they stop well, create very little dust, and have been very nice to the rotors. They do make noise sometimes however, which I believe is due to the rotors being slightly glazed over from use with the previous set of OEM pads. The original pads were still good (75%), but they were really chewing up the rotors so I swapped them out for the Wagners which have been much better.
#559
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. They do make noise sometimes however, which I believe is due to the rotors being slightly glazed over from use with the previous set of OEM pads. The original pads were still good (75%), but they were really chewing up the rotors so I swapped them out for the Wagners which have been much better.
#560
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just had to change out my rear brakes at 26k. i bought hawk hps and r1 rotors slotted and vented but not cross drilled. this combo cost me like 270ish and then the install was like 130ish. i bet they last longer then 26k.
#561
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Rotors (Same as C1s but plain) cost me $111 SHIPPED. Pads..Wagner thermoquiet Caramics...$46. Install is really simple..but I may have a guy do it, since I don't have a lift and I don't know if I wanna bother with using the jack. $75 quoted if I go that route.
#562
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Yea the catalogs are incorrect, the people that make the listings are retarded and obviously don't understand that not every trim is the same within a car model.
For an '08 SS TC, Advance lists the pads as part number 1033 for the rear in every brand except for the Thermoquiets, which is completely wrong.
I have the QC1095A pads in the rear and they fit perfectly just like the OEM pads.
For an '08 SS TC, Advance lists the pads as part number 1033 for the rear in every brand except for the Thermoquiets, which is completely wrong.
I have the QC1095A pads in the rear and they fit perfectly just like the OEM pads.
#563
This is interesting because the pad number 1095 designates the pad size, shape, and thickness, and both share the same number. The "A" at the end of the QC1095A's designates a difference in backing plate design, shims, chamfers, slots, ect.
#564
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Either my replacement rotor is a tad larger than stock, or the pads are a bit smaller to accomodate the other applications with slightly smaller rotors..say 11" +/-. I'm pretty sure mine is to spec though. Check to see if you have a small inner ring of unswept area.
#567
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I just bought a brand new 2010 Victory Red SS last week. I pulled the rear calipers and the pins are dry as a bone.
I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.
Later, Old Veteran Car Dude
I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.
Later, Old Veteran Car Dude
#568
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I just bought a brand new 2010 Victory Red SS last week. I pulled the rear calipers and the pins are dry as a bone.
I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.
Later, Old Veteran Car Dude
I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.
Later, Old Veteran Car Dude
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I just bought a brand new 2010 Victory Red SS last week. I pulled the rear calipers and the pins are dry as a bone.
I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.
Later, Old Veteran Car Dude
I used GM silver "anti-seize" paste on the pins and the edges of the backing plates. The rear pads are really soft. I rubbed the outer pad on my concrete driveway, and it just crumbles. Wow....too freaking soft for me. I just ordered ceramics form Pep Boys.
Later, Old Veteran Car Dude
Later!
Bill
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Stock pads are pretty aggressive, but I haven't had any problem with them, after the fix (new stock pads & rotors under warranty). They dust a bit, but not nearly as much as the fronts, naturally. I autocross 2-3 times a month for 9 months of the year, and my pads & rotors look great! However, pads are an individual preference thing.
Later!
Bill
Later!
Bill
I just replaced mine myself (ceramic) along with premium rotors because I didn't want GM to go back to the same crap. Cost me only $150.
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Unless they gave you a different type pad ( I hear they were using SAAB pads for a while), you will have a problem. I assume you had a problem in the first place and had em replaced? The original stock pads are TERRIBLE on the rotors and wear unevenly as well. Maybe GM fixed that issue using a different pad for replacement under warranty?
I just replaced mine myself (ceramic) along with premium rotors because I didn't want GM to go back to the same crap. Cost me only $150.
I just replaced mine myself (ceramic) along with premium rotors because I didn't want GM to go back to the same crap. Cost me only $150.
#572
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^i donno if the 2010's have different pads or not but my rears are squealing their ass off. Car is a lil over a month old and I just hit 1,800 miles today and they have been making noise since it was a few days old with 400 miles
#575
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The replacement pads were a different GM part number, probably what the '10s got. The original issue was grooving of the rotors, because of the dry pins. First they turned the rotors, and the grooves came right back. Then they replaced pads & rotors (& greased the pins) under dealer warranty, and the issue is resolved.
In fact, I lubed my pins around 5K miles ago when I wasn't having any problems..then BINGO...pads shot now! I really think this whole issue is a result of a pad that simply crumbles. The inner pads prolly wear faster not because of the pins, but because they (pads) are contaminated more being more exposed to the inside and this material attracts particles, being sticky as well.
Just my take