soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I believe the "fix" (haven't looked at them) is to replace the OE ceramic pads with a semi-metallic pad...

RauLiTo SS/SC

iTrader: (3)

I had read about this before, and checked my pads but everything seemed normal.

I started hearing a squek about a week ago, but didnt stop to check it.

Then the squeak got louder and louder and then I started hearing like something was scratching.

Once I got home I checked and the driver's side inner pad was GONE..

The rotor from the inside was totally scrached..

I have 25K miles, I was thinking on getting drilled and slotted rotors anyways,

But this just makes me really pissed.

Should I got to the dealer and get them to fix the problem?

I have seen a few of you guys getting it fixed, but since the pad is gone, and the rotor is damaged would it be a problem?


I really do not want to take the car and be charged the $95 diagnostic fee just to be told that I have to geet my pads and rotors replaced.

What should I do?

jzehren11

iTrader: (6)

Well I took it into the dealership the other day, and told them about the rear rotors looking like they have been on there for 100k+ miles. They agreed that they shouldnt look like that under 20k miles. So they are replacing the pads, rotors, and calipers! all under warrenty

emiller

Mine got replaced under warranty too. Just go in there and be like hey somethings wrong with my rear brakes. Its doing this and looks like this. Let them do the rest.

Of course some dealers and techs are better than others but reading so many posts on here where people basically think every dealer tech is a retard and every dealer is crooked makes me wonder if a lot of people go into the dealer with that attitude. Or they go in and say hey my brakes are bad replace this because I think its whats wrong but I don't want anyone else to check and confirm that. Then if it doesn't fix the problem they bash the dealer and tech for only throwing new parts on there without confirming the problem. Treat people like that and good luck getting decent service or getting them to be willing to help you.

sponge14

See, this is B.S. Why my dealer didn't even try to work a warranty is beyond me.... Though, this is the same dealer that wants to tear down my transmission because of a squeaky clutch pedal....

emiller

Any other ones near you? Find a good dealer and stick with them. If they suck try another if you can.

sponge14

That's the problem, when GM shut down dealerships we lost 3 in this area. This one is the only one in a 1hr drive radius... It's not until I get down into the Dallas area that you start to see them again.

emiller

Sucks. The only dealer in my town closed too. 1 in the next town over is pretty much only used car sales with no parts or service. Cant stay in business if you cant sell cars though.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Actually you have it backwards

sponge14

I know that GM Customer Service screen name is lurking around the site, and posting in this thread.... Surely there must be something they can do about getting a TSB out there so the Dealerships know what the hell is going on. It seems like it takes an act of God to get some dealerships to do warranty work. I don't understand that, they are getting paid by GM to do the work. If I ran a dealership I would want as much money coming in as possible, I wouldn't be turning down any easy warranty work that I could get done under book time.

Eurasianman

They resurfaced my rotors and put new pads on the rear all under warranty. However, when I was leaving the dealership, my engine light came on, so I turned the car around and had them look at it. I got the P0236 code The service manager even admit to the car feeling funny when he was driving it around the parking lot *SMH*. He cleared the code for me and the car is driving fine... for now.

Permafried-

GM has to approve the warranty work first since they pay the dealer, the dealer doesn't have the final say on anything.

paxter

iTrader: (1)

I had scoring on the rear rotors on my '09 Coupe and initially it was being played off as normal wear. They measured them and found 1 was already out of limits, so they replaced both. But did ask me to pays for the pads. I thought that was fair and all labor was also covered. Car had right at 25,000 miles on it.

crazyazn11

I have a 2009 and i already had to replace my rear brakes at 12,000 miles. They weren't going to do it but I had them resurfaced at 5,000 miles so I told them they needed to cover it on warranty or else. So they did. LOL hopefully they give a recall and i get some better brakes cause my friend works at an enterprise in ann arbor and said that someone had used the e-brake and the car started to roll down a hill and went straight into a ditch.

Cptnsweet

I have been telling the dealership my rear brakes were squeaking and grinding from 3000 miles they kept telling me hat the cobalt ss' were suposed to do that and they kept giving me a print out. well my husband just had to change my rear brakes and have the rotors turned and I just went over 30,000 miles. the rotors were so bad they almost didnt turn the 1 and they didnt turn the other one they said i had to take it back to the dealership because it was so warped. I was told that they put the cheapest brakes on the cobalts and malibus just to pass safety regulations. Its rediculous that this many of us have had rear brake issues and they wont upgrade the rotors and pads. I'm sure the dealership wont do anything when I take it in next week. but its great that some of you have gotten yours replaced.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

@ Cptnsweet/Brandi from Hendersonville;

regaurding this part of your comment;
I want to start off by saying that I am posting this becasue of how rampant misinformation seems to run around here;

I feel the need to correct you.

W actually have high end ceramic brake pads, and high end rotors on our cars (2008-2010 SS);
The trouble is that most of us don't get on them as hard as they're designed to be used;
In the case of rear brakes, after sufficient 'lack of use' brake dust collects, dries out the sliders, and then the problems ensue.

Occasionally looking at the brakes (at say every, or every second oil change), as well as other serviceable areas of the car should help prevent any real damage.
When I had my rear brakes done under (well not really) warranty, they actually deemed the rotors to be true, and good enough that turning them wasn't necessary.
Then again, I did take them apart a couple times and re-lube the sliders before this became an "issue"...

Any "upgrade" brake parts that you can put on are in fact "downgrades".

If you want cheap, trouble free brakes, swap on some non-turbo brake (aka: cheap malibu) components, and you won't have any further complaints.

casionerd

iTrader: (3)

I have an 08 SS/TC with 22K miles. At every bump there is a loud clunk in the rear. I took the car to the dealer and they said they couldn't figure out the cause of the noise but it was normal for SSs. They said all of the bushings, endlinks and other suspension components were just fine.

I think I found out what it is. First I figured out that there was absolutely no noise when I pulled up partially on the parking brake. When I was looking at the rear brakes I discovered that the inside brake pads on both rear calipers can be moved up and down about a quarter of an inch with just my fingers. I think that when I held the parking brake on just a bit it was keeping the pads at the top due to friction and preventing the clunk. It's as if they're maybe missing some kind of retaining pins or something. I don't know if they're the stock pads or not. I have only had the car for just under two months.

Anyone else have this issue or notice it? The pads have a lot left on them and there is no scoring in the rotors. When I bought the car it had two new tires on the rear. Maybe the selling dealership replaced the rear pads with non SS pads????

Another thing I noticed is the adjustment nut on the parking brake lever was tightened all the way down and stripped so that it won't loosen or tighten. It just spins around and around at the bottom of the threads. It looks like a metal bolt on the outside but with plastic on the inside.

Any input or advice is appreciated. I'll buy whatever it takes. Car is out of warranty BTW.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

^^^ sounds to me like you need to pull off the rear wheels, unbolt the calipers, and actually look to see if something is goobered...

Fortunately with the rear brakes, nothing is even remotely rocket-science.

JReal560

30k and mine is starting
2009 Cobalt ss t/c sedan

emiller

Try going to make a few hard stops to get them cleaned off. Mine haven't been a problem but I make at least 1 hard stop every day or 2.

pistol_junior23

God mine grind like crazy under soft braking and once i release the brake you can still hear the grinding like they are still clamped down a little so i have to do a hard break to get them to stop. The lovely loud squeal also is freaking annoying. Mine is a 09 with just about 25k miles, the brakes been getting worse since 15k. I'm getting them fixed soon either by the dealership or I'll stop at napa and pick up rotors and new pads and install them myself.

CmplXty

Filed a complaint. I brought my car in for service of my fuel gauge and my front brakes were squealing, and they tell me my back brakes are pretty much shot to hell but wont cover it under the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty?

emiller

That's because brakes are a wear item.

CmplXty

I just found that out unfortunately. But it's rediculous, 30k miles and the back brakes need to be replaced? I would expect the front brakes sure, but the back? Thats annoying as hell. I haven't had the car 30 days yet!

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

thank you.