soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

You mean you were sold a car with wiped brakes?



Was it an optimum used car? ~ if so (or if equivalent) you should be covered - just go back to the selling dealer...
~ but if it was just a "rat" dealer, or private sale, this falls under the "buyer beware" spectrum of things.

When I worked in the auto service industry pre-purchase inspections were the norm ~ and IMHO a wise investment.

I know what you're saying, but to play devils advocate, since brakes are a wear item, it's like you would be expecting the manufacturer to replace your gas - becasue it's ran out...

Does that make sense?

pistol_junior23

I just felt my back rotors and the outside is grooved and once i felt the inside the dang things go smooth for a 1/2 inch then its a full or more 1/16" drop in groove to the edge of the rotor. My rotors are more shot than my pads!

09TcSedan

i had my TC/sedan in about a month after i bought it. i would hear a clunk during/after hitting a bump. turns out when the dealership i bought my car from did put some kind of pins in when they replaced the rear pads. since that no clunks but i just rolled over 30k and my brakes squeak like hellllllll but i drive in rush hour traffic everyday at 4pm and do alot of soft braking. so when ever they annoy me i do a couple hard brakes and the squeak goes away for a while.

i have yet to look at the brakes but when i brought my car into the new dealership i go to for warranty,we balanced and rotated tires and the brakes were getting down there but didnt think they needed to be replaced yet.

how long do the brakes usually go before needing to be replaced? for the fronts

pistol_junior23

well just took the car to the dealership and nothing was going to be warrantied since rear brake pads were shot and was metal on metal i guess. . . so they are going to surface them for $99 and install new pads for $99. . .cheaper pads then the $286 factory ones so it will be $198+ tax for fix

MikeyG

After my stock rear brakes were shot at 19k, I replaced them with Hawk pads and NAPA rotors. 3500 miles later and they are starting to make noise again. The inner pads are halfway gone and the outer pads look brand new. The slide pins are lubricated and the caliper slides back and forth easily. Not sure what else can be done to fix this.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

I see a contradiction;

you could only have uneven wear if the caliper is hanging up on the slider;
if the pins/caliper are as you say then the pad wear would be even...

The only other thing I can think of is;
Have you looked at your ebrake cable? ~ it could be dragging.

MikeyG

Yes, you would certainly think it's a contradiction, that's what makes the uneven wear so hard to explain. Everything SEEMS to be working fine. Also, the parking brake is properly adjusted. I can easily spin the rotor by hand with the parking brake off. I am ASE certified in Hydraulic Brake Systems; I know what to look for, and I am stumped.

soundjunky

iTrader: (4)

this post gave me information that I wouldn't have guessed...
most people who whine about stuff like this (or brake pads/rotors not being warranty items) are just looking to whine, and couldn't be bothered to really look into what might be the problem...

has the system been thoroughly flushed?

Powell made a thread on another site showing how there seems to be a white sludgy build up in our brake systems... and strongly recommended at least a yearly brake flushes to clean out the system...

MikeyG

I realize there's no point in whining about anything, GM won't fix the issue anyway. I have never cracked open any brake lines, and to my knowledge the fluid is all stock. I'll flush it on general principle, though I can't imagine it helping.

BlueStang

They should just recall the whole car

emiller

Your issue sounds similar to mine. My inside pads and rotors were heavily grooved but the outide was smooth. However mine were worn pretty evenly. Dealer lubed everything and adjusted the parking brake and its been fine for probably 35k miles. They blamed not having a back plate and getting road debris stuck in there. I also use the brakes harder now which may help keep them clean.

There must be more to lube and adjust than Tue pb and slides.

Chevrolet Cust Svc

Glad to hear that yours were taken care of during your visit.

Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

sponge14

What about all of us who's dealers are refusing to do anything about this issue?

emiller

Ask them to explain the uneven wear if your has it. Its a pretty good indicator that something is wrong either stuck or just out of adjustment.

knapster6

iTrader: (1)

I had grooves in the rotors and the pads were sticking, the dealership warrantied it by putting on new pads and resurfacing the rotors, hopefully they greased everything well.

When I talked to the service guy on the phone at first I gave him the dealer service bulletin number for the rear brakes and had no problems getting them replaced.

sponge14

I absolutely did, I took pictures after I took the pads off, but they said that uneven wear is normal.

uw06670

Got my car in 2010 and after reading this thread, was sufficiently scared to take the car to a mechanic I trust to have him look at the brakes (at about 2,000 miles). Asked him to lube those slide pins and have a look. Things were fine.

As I just recently got to about 13,000 miles brakes started squeaking at slow braking. So I look at the rears and the driver's side disc has a score mark all the way around. It looked like it was deep (later I learned it wasn't). Looked like plenty of pad on the outside.

Took it to Chevy dealer in Lake Elsinore, CA. He said that its actually just scoring but not a deep grove, I couldn't tell until I really felt it, anyway... So I told him I was concerned because of the horror stories on here. He said its pretty common to get sand/dirt onto the pad and it scratches up the rotor but doesn't affect braking or life. But he said he'd have his guys take a look to give me peace of mind.

This guy also said the fronts should last 60k and the rears 80k (which is almost exactly what I got with the last small manual trans car I owned). So that is interesting.

They call me up the next day and say all pads and rotors are fine, but since I complained about the noise/scratches he was going to replace the rotor and pads on that left rear under warranty (I'm past the 12/12k). He wanted me to be "completely satisfied which I certainly am under the circumstances.

Picked it up a couple days ago and I'm a happy camper. It still squeals though, so that might be the front brakes.

emiller

If you get some heat in the brakes instead of lightly dragging them the noise goes away and they wear better.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

good that you were looked after. As far as I can tell, some cars 08/09 had pads with defective material .Actually looked like chunks of metal imbedded in the pad, and would score the rotors.
the rear rotors slide on rubbers. I replace those every spring and every fall for a car driven year round. cleaning and lubrication is important.

the front pads must be installed according to the indicated arrow on the backing plate, chamfer up.They dont squeal that way generally speaking. The pad has steel shim plates (anti squeal) with a copper lubricant Brembo supply, lots of that applied to the plate and the piston edge, you be good.

I dont run the steel shims as my floating rotors/(LNF caliper set up), are 2 mm thicker than stock and I need the space . But my brakes dont squeal.

Most slider calipers need service pre winter and pre summer. LNF front brembos need the caliper pins lubricated or new pin kits with each pad change.

enjoy your ride

zrated89

iTrader: (15)

^^^^especially if you live in canaduh.....lol

dragonsprayer

Hey guys a little help here:

i have 2010 with 11k, i mostly race up and down 294 tristate and borman - if your familar with this road there are toooooo many cars and it is easy to speed - fast! I red line 3rd on each pass, and stay hidden in traffic.......... anyways.

plenty of jap cars and Bemmers to smoke, not mention the RX8's - i lost once to hot rodded caliber but i slowed down at 50 over in 40. ok........

my rear parking break does not work - is this related? i lost my car in lake on steep drive my nex door neighbors. when i hopped out with the car running i had to chase it and jump in - very scary/

signed:

"the old man in the red car"

CmplXty

Well I would hope you would shut the car off and put it in reverse, as well as the parking brake before you got out lol How steep is this hill? You could've just had worn out back brakes, unrelated to the bad brakes.

VandykeT/A

I took mine in at 13k with the emergency brake not working very well and they said the pads were half worn out and wouldn't be covered under warranty. You could look through the wheel and the outer pad looked like it was new. Well at about 20k I had to replace the pads myself. At 32k I had to replace the pads and rotors myself. I'm just going to start changing them about every 8 or 9k to be safe.

Eurasianman

Well, around 19K miles, my rear brakes had to be replaced. It seems after they 'replaced' them, my e-brake no longer worked like it use to the day I bought it. I argued with the dealership for weeks about it. Finally called GM Customer Service and complained. They replaced the rear brakes (calipers and pads) and go figure, the e-brake works like a champ now. Oh, and this happened at 25K miles. Sad that a car with only 25K miles needs this much maintenance on REAR brakes.

sponge14

I'm going through the EXACT same thing right now. I have my complaint filed with Customer service and they are supposedly going to see what they can do for me. I really wish that out Customer Service Rep on here could show this thread to some people that can make things happen. Our rear brakes should be a recall at this point....