Rear Brakes FILE COMPLAINT HERE SO WE CAN GET A RECALL
#727
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I purchased an 08 SS/TC on 8/31/11. A week or so after purchase it started making an aweful clunking noise at the rear brakes. Took it to the dealership and was told the pads were aftermarket and that was the problem. When I picked the car up the original pads were gone. No one knew where they were. I'm not totally convinced they were aftermarket. Since the pads were supposidly aftermarket the dealership charged 307.40. Sarah at GM Customer Service helped me as much as she could but once the service department deemed the pads aftermarket she could no longer help. The dealership replaced the pads with OEM pads and turned the rotors. 30 days later the clunking noise started again but not as loud. 60-80 days later a horrible grinding/scraping noise started and the clunking noise was just as loud, if not louder, than before. The grinding noise sounds like a heavy table or chair is being drug accross a smooth hard surface and is vibrating. It does not sound the same as when the worn pad indicator rubs against the rotor. It sounds like metal on metal with a lot of friction. Each time I hear it I think it's going to be followed by a loud clunk and a wheel is going to fall off or something expensive is going to break. It has been almost four months since the "repair." The car's stopping distance has lengthened. The noises are embarassing and unnerving. I don't think it's safe. I don't understand why Chevy won't do anything about this. I guess it's going to take a few deaths before it becomes important enough to address and fix. This sucks.
#729
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I purchased an 08 SS/TC on 8/31/11. A week or so after purchase it started making an aweful clunking noise at the rear brakes. Took it to the dealership and was told the pads were aftermarket and that was the problem. When I picked the car up the original pads were gone. No one knew where they were. I'm not totally convinced they were aftermarket. Since the pads were supposidly aftermarket the dealership charged 307.40. Sarah at GM Customer Service helped me as much as she could but once the service department deemed the pads aftermarket she could no longer help. The dealership replaced the pads with OEM pads and turned the rotors. 30 days later the clunking noise started again but not as loud. 60-80 days later a horrible grinding/scraping noise started and the clunking noise was just as loud, if not louder, than before. The grinding noise sounds like a heavy table or chair is being drug accross a smooth hard surface and is vibrating. It does not sound the same as when the worn pad indicator rubs against the rotor. It sounds like metal on metal with a lot of friction. Each time I hear it I think it's going to be followed by a loud clunk and a wheel is going to fall off or something expensive is going to break. It has been almost four months since the "repair." The car's stopping distance has lengthened. The noises are embarassing and unnerving. I don't think it's safe. I don't understand why Chevy won't do anything about this. I guess it's going to take a few deaths before it becomes important enough to address and fix. This sucks.
#730
rear brakes
My 2009 SS turbo sedan had rear brake pads & rotors replaced at about 31,000. Tip for ALL -- do NOT replace with stock Chevrolet parts. I had my local tire store that I have dealt with for years replace rear pads & rotors with premium non- Chev parts. With about 8,000 miles on these new parts I have noticed NO scoring of the rear rotors so far. Also I have another 2009 SS turbo sedan that has only 8,600 miles on it and scoring problems with its rear braakes is beginning to show up. Chev has evidently passed off real time crap for brakes in the SS. My local Chev dealer refuses to give warranty service on these brakes problems by telling that this only due to NORMAL wear & tear. Even a moron would know that these brake problems at extremely low mileagesis NOT due to normal wear & tear. I really resent Chev passing off this kind of crap on me! Guess no more Chevrolets for me. I should have bought that 2-door Accord instead of the SS!
#731
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im about to replace my rear rotors/pads and i have only 25000 on my car had this problem since around 5000...My one buddy says it has to due with the piston so instead of clamping the rotor the outside pad is the only one pushing up against the rotor fully thats why the inner pad has more pad i guess left on it than that outside one
#732
im about to replace my rear rotors/pads and i have only 25000 on my car had this problem since around 5000...My one buddy says it has to due with the piston so instead of clamping the rotor the outside pad is the only one pushing up against the rotor fully thats why the inner pad has more pad i guess left on it than that outside one
#733
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I'm havin the same issue with the rear pad I can here them in reverse and while I brake I can hear them grind like they're fully engaging and shouldn't be, I saw a thread on someone elses issue and they got this girl who is the gm rep and she got it all squared up we need to find her or someone to contact her
#736
My 2009 SS turbo sedan had rear brake pads & rotors replaced at about 31,000. Tip for ALL -- do NOT replace with stock Chevrolet parts. I had my local tire store that I have dealt with for years replace rear pads & rotors with premium non- Chev parts. With about 8,000 miles on these new parts I have noticed NO scoring of the rear rotors so far. Also I have another 2009 SS turbo sedan that has only 8,600 miles on it and scoring problems with its rear braakes is beginning to show up. Chev has evidently passed off real time crap for brakes in the SS. My local Chev dealer refuses to give warranty service on these brakes problems by telling that this only due to NORMAL wear & tear. Even a moron would know that these brake problems at extremely low mileagesis NOT due to normal wear & tear. I really resent Chev passing off this kind of crap on me! Guess no more Chevrolets for me. I should have bought that 2-door Accord instead of the SS!
#737
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im about to replace my rear rotors/pads and i have only 25000 on my car had this problem since around 5000...My one buddy says it has to due with the piston so instead of clamping the rotor the outside pad is the only one pushing up against the rotor fully thats why the inner pad has more pad i guess left on it than that outside one
At 20k miles, I had one rear wheel at about 40/40 pad life left, while the other was about 80/0 (one pad was metal on metal). Due to the discrepancy between the wheels, the dealer replaced both sides under warranty. I'm now at 48k, so 28k on the replacements, and on my last inspection I estimate I'm good till at least 55k on these rear pads. My fronts are still original, but getting close.
#738
That's a common issue, but different from the scoring. The rears are floating calipers, which means one presses and then pulls the other side in, as opposed to both sides pressing at the same time (which is what the fronts do). Slightly uneven wear is normal, but in a lot of cases the sliding pins are sticking and preventing the caliper from closing fully, which causes one pad to do almost all the work.
At 20k miles, I had one rear wheel at about 40/40 pad life left, while the other was about 80/0 (one pad was metal on metal). Due to the discrepancy between the wheels, the dealer replaced both sides under warranty. I'm now at 48k, so 28k on the replacements, and on my last inspection I estimate I'm good till at least 55k on these rear pads. My fronts are still original, but getting close.
At 20k miles, I had one rear wheel at about 40/40 pad life left, while the other was about 80/0 (one pad was metal on metal). Due to the discrepancy between the wheels, the dealer replaced both sides under warranty. I'm now at 48k, so 28k on the replacements, and on my last inspection I estimate I'm good till at least 55k on these rear pads. My fronts are still original, but getting close.
#739
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yup, mine wont hold the car on a slight incline now. With my clutch slipping leaving it in gear doesn't work either. Basically I have to be real careful where I park. Luckily I'm in OK and TX where there's really not that much in the way of hills...
#740
YOU HAVE IT BACKWARDS. Its the inner rear pads that wear down to the rivets with the outer rear pads showing very little wear. I do see your point about the caliber possibly being the real culprit on the SS rear brakes. If my SS rear brakes start acting up on me again, I am going to go with NAPA calibers. Maybe that will solve the problem once and for all. Still I am very upset that Chevrolet has passed off on the SS customer such crappy rear brakes. Shame on Chevrolet. Still I wish I had bought the 2-door Accord instead of the SS! If I can dump my SS, I might still get the Accord.
Grass is always greener on the other side, stop being ignorant.
#742
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ok i rechecked mine i was dumb i have this problem to im dumb...but im replacing all rear brakes taking apart the caliper and cleaning it throwing some KY on it*not really* but lubing them up
#743
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All I did was grease the sliding pins really well when I changed the pads that were grinding at 12k miles.. now any time I rotate my tires or have my wheels off for some reason I just grease them to keep them lubed.
#744
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Done the same when swapping summers to winters and back again, so 2x per year. No issues, no binding and it literally takes no time at all. Some preventative maintenance can go a long way .
#747
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#748
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i have a question. when my car is off, and my parking brake is down. and i try to push my car, i hear metal rubbing on metal. i let the car roll (with door open ofcourse) and try to follow it and listen to see where its coming from, i think it is coming from the rear rotors. im not sure. i cant see anything rubbing on it tho. looks good to me. anyone have an idea?
#749
i have a question. when my car is off, and my parking brake is down. and i try to push my car, i hear metal rubbing on metal. i let the car roll (with door open ofcourse) and try to follow it and listen to see where its coming from, i think it is coming from the rear rotors. im not sure. i cant see anything rubbing on it tho. looks good to me. anyone have an idea?
#750
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There will always be a slight drag between the rotor and pad, especially at lower speeds. At speed, the slight vibration (side to side) actually helps push the pads off the rotor. Where as the pads will just rest against the rotors at a slow pace, which could cause noticeable noise when just pushing your car. Should not be much of a noise though.
i have also noticed when i am on a slight hill, the car does not roll. and other manual cars around me roll... actually, it takes a lot to get my car rolling. another reason why i think it is dragging.
but at higher speeds, its hard for me to hear it because of exhaust/engine noise and wind noise.