Chevrolet Cobalt SS/NA Cable Clamp

^^will fix the cables popping off

Did you replace this part when you did the cables? Or make sure it's holding the cables correctly?

LSJ Revised Shifter Bracket - Transmission & Drivetrain

 

I didn't replace it but I made sure it was holding right. I am cleaning up and painting the engine Bay and with that I was going to do Powell engine mounts, zzp trans mounts, clutch, oem flywheel, billet shifter cable clamp, master/slave cylinder, and the zzp adjustable rod thingy. this is a little project car I have going on and I want it to never ever shift again like it used to. that lsj bracket is what I want for my lnf?

 

Its actually the LNF bracket, zzp just calls it an upgrade for the LSJ since GM made revisions between models.

Make sure you replace the clutch pipe, and use new flywheel bolts. I dont know of any reason to use the adjustable rod with a stock clutch.

 

I am going to be throwing a used transaxle in soon. I am 100% convinced it's the trans.

There are many MANY complaints on the Saab 9-3 and 9-5 boards about this exact problem.

Saab even released an update kit to fix these exact issues.

Tonight I will link a few good reads about this exact issue in the Saab 9-3s. Same exact problem.

 

I was going to upgrade the clutch and go with oem flywheel. unless I should upgrade the clutch and use a fidenza flywheel. hence why I was going to get the rod. I was talking to John at Powell race parts this evening and he is convinced I just need an lnf clutch

 

awesome I will sub if I can find out how lol. really rotted with my car. but sadly I love her more than my 2013 freektuned speed3

 

Stock clutch takes a lot of abuse and doesn't shock the transmission as bad as some aftermarket.

Keep with the OEM flywheel.

 

I'm up in the air about my clutch. It sure feels aftermarket. Engagement isn't too far off the floor and it's on the stiff side. It's been holding everything I throw at it.

I might just keep it in there because it seems to be just fine.

It's tempting to go with GMPP though for a softer pedal but I'm not sure I want to sink even more money into the car yet.

I figure after doing the trans in this once the second time won't be nearly as bad so a future clutch won't be a huge deal.

**I did install the ZZP adjustable master cylinder. It didn't make any difference really.

I just don't see how the adjustment can really help. With my stock master the rod would bottom out on the housing. With the ZZP, the rod bottoms out on the housing. Other than moving the pedal position a bit I don't see how it can possible dis engage the pressure plate any more than the stock one.

I might be over looking something though.

When I say the rod bottoms out I'm talking about that beveled shape thing on the rod. It hits the master cylinder on both the stock and aftermarket rod.

I did adjust the ZZP one so that when the pedal is on the floor the rod is just touching the master. Anything more and you'll be bending the firewall / bashing the housing.

Sadly I'll be swapping it again. The one I got has a nice leak internally into the car.

I purchased another one from ZZP so I can send the 1st one back for their "inspection".


On the topic of master cylinders. I have worked with thousands of cars over the years. When I bleed brakes / clutches I apply pressure to the reservoir then go crack the bleeders open. Works great. I tend to apply only 1-2 psi at the reservoir with a hand pump when doing this. I have never had a master leak internally doing this. I told ZZP how I bled the system. I hope this doesn't turn into being blamed for making it leak.

 

Does your trans occasionally decide to just come out of 5th gear when cruising?

It tends to happen when going from cruise to coast then back to cruise.

No noise, nothing. Just suddenly it's not in gear. Take it out of 5th and put it back in and it's good again for miles and miles. If I don't pull it back to neutral first it will cause the dogs to grind when trying to push it back into 5th.

Again, it's NOT the cable / shifter adjustment. I have torn every aspect of the system apart, inspected, measured and made damned sure the lever / cables are moving the shift levers on the transaxle properly and completely.


I see a bright side to all my trans woes.

1. I'm getting a 32k mile HHR trans with LSD. Shorter FD = a little easier on trans.
2. I'll have all kinds of spare parts. Think case, gears etc.
3. Hopefully I'll be able to recoup most of my expense by parting out my old trans.
4. I need to be positive because this crap is pissing me off lol. I really REALLY want to do a wot run and see just how quick this thing is. By the time i'm able to grab the next gear boost is long gone which takes 80% of the fun out of it.

If this doesn't solve it then the only thing left is my clutch. I know it fully disengages when I press it down but if this doesn't change my shifting issues I will get a GMPP and drop the trans again.

But with the 5th gear thing, high rpm shift thing, reverse locked out etc it's GOT to be something screwed up in the trans. Especially after reading all the saab guys having the same issue and seeing Saab's update repair kit.

 

Read:

https://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/gearbox.htm

And

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=223931

And the most relevant one I believe:

https://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/file...ans-update.htm

I realize the sn breakdown shows these to be an issue with the early trans but who knows what parts big GM reached into when sourcing our Coblat / HHR trans......

 

These transmissions are a b*tch to take apart, they require special tools and you can mess them up quick even with the correct tools.

 

Yeah I read that a few places.

Are you speaking from personal experience on dismantling one of these? I would love to hear about some gotcha's that people have experienced in the past on these.

I realize they list a huge list of "special" tools but in my experience rarely are they truly needed and a crafty person can typically rig up their own jigs to get the job done.

 

Is there a synchro for reverse gear? I don't think there is, if I don't get in reverse right away then I got to 1st gear then to reverse and bam problem solved.

 

Yes from what I have seen our cars do have synchronized reverse.

Believe me, I wish it were as easy as going to another gear then reverse.

 

car stays in all gears, just a bitch to shift while going for a hard smack. I have to wait for the strain to come off the engine and the rpms drop a bit. like I said I have it down to a science as much as you can get it but it still isn't right. my buddies can't drive it for ****

 

Might just be your clutch then.

Mine now shifts exactly as it should.

I cannot say whether or not my old clutch played a factor in it because I replaced it at the same time as my trans.

My trans was most definitely f'd up and on borrowed time.

 

probably TWM. I have it. You either have slight difficulty going into 1st and reverse, or you have difficulty going into reverse.

I chose having the cables adjusted to the point that its difficult to go into reverse because I use 1st too often lol. Usually going into 4th or 2nd help find reverse.

 

After getting my trans issues ironed out I put my TWM back in and it works fine. No issue at all going into any gear.

I push it all the way to the stop then up into 5th.

I lift the interlock and go far right then down to reverse.

 

figured out my shift issue today.. the clutch pipe was bents bad it was nearly busted off.. spent so much money on all ottp parts to find out it was a $10 fix lol

 

That will do it. I could see it behaving as you described earlier because of that.

Thanks for the update, will be helpful to others in the future.

 

Hey atleast you upgraded everything and looks good now lol