View Poll Results: When did you first notice rotor scoring/grinding? If no issue, how many mi on SS/TC?
Problem @ 1-5000 mi
136
25.61%
Problem @ 5001-10000 mi
83
15.63%
Problem @ 10001-15000 mi
40
7.53%
Problem @ 15001+ mi
39
7.34%
No Problem @ 1-5000 mi
43
8.10%
No Problem @ 5001-10000 mi
24
4.52%
No Problem @ 10001-15000 mi
18
3.39%
No Problem @ 15001+ mi
30
5.65%
Voted just to see results
118
22.22%
Voters: 531. You may not vote on this poll
Wearing rear brakes? Come in
#101
Senior Member
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I'm sure the EBC Redstuff's would have been fine with harder use. If I used the E-brake on a few hard stops they quieted right down when they got some heat in them. Just too noisy for me on normal driving. The high pitch squeal at low speeds I could live with, the bone shuttering howl for the last few mph was more than I could take. I had the back of the pads greased up good so I don't think it was that, just the rotor & pad combo I think.
Someone else may have a better experience with the Redstuff's than I did. Time will tell.
Someone else may have a better experience with the Redstuff's than I did. Time will tell.
#103
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Like I said, this car is a blast, but the whole brakes thing is a disappointment.
#104
Senior Member
In daily driving and even single panic stops I feel about the same way about the stock brakes. The stopping capability seems to be okay but the main benefit of the giant brakes is going to be on a track where a few people and the press have noted they don't overheat easily. For general driving I kind of like the pedal feel in my Focus better than the pedal in the Cobalt, and if I'm not thrashing the car it would have been nice to get a little longer service life out of them. Oh well, time to upgrade.
#105
Senior Member
I'm not sure what cars you are normally used to driving (Formula 1, Formula 3000, LeMans Prototype class) but the stock brakes on the SS/TC are very solid on the street. I test drove a few of them and the pedal feel was FIRM but very very responsive. It puts the brakes on my Mustang GT (07, dual piston front calipers, vented rear rotors) and my Crown Vic (00, dual piston front calipers) to shame, in terms of pedal response, firmness, and stopping capability. If I tapped the brakes on the SS/TC, you'd immediately feel the deceleration. If you tapped the brakes on the GT or Vic, you'd activate the brake lights unless you really stomped on the brake pedal (pedal response seems to be designed for old people).
The Mazdaspeed3 brakes were acceptable, but the funny part is that the MS3 is about 200 lb heavier than the SS/TC and only has single piston front calipers and solid rear rotors, yet the MS3's 70-0 braking is comparable to the SS/TC's braking capabilities. Repeated stopping may show a benefit from the 4-piston Brembos and vented rear rotors on the SS/TC.
The Mazdaspeed3 brakes were acceptable, but the funny part is that the MS3 is about 200 lb heavier than the SS/TC and only has single piston front calipers and solid rear rotors, yet the MS3's 70-0 braking is comparable to the SS/TC's braking capabilities. Repeated stopping may show a benefit from the 4-piston Brembos and vented rear rotors on the SS/TC.
#106
New Member
Oh, I'm with you Metroplex. I have no complaints about the brakes. The cosmetic grooving found on the rear rotors doesn't bother me, so long as it's not scoring way out of tolerance, which it's not. The braking capabilities of this car are pretty nuts, and not just in terms of stopping power. People that complain about the squealing in the winter and the brake dust just don't see the point of this car. It's a road legal track day car that you can use everyday.
Also noted in that issue of Road and Track I mentioned earlier, the reason they opted to change out the brakes is because the '07 Mazdaspeed 3 brakes were overheating pretty quickly. You'd be hard pressed to find ANY reports about the Cobalt SS's brakes being an issue after a barrage of hard stopping from triple digit speeds lap after lap.
Also noted in that issue of Road and Track I mentioned earlier, the reason they opted to change out the brakes is because the '07 Mazdaspeed 3 brakes were overheating pretty quickly. You'd be hard pressed to find ANY reports about the Cobalt SS's brakes being an issue after a barrage of hard stopping from triple digit speeds lap after lap.
#107
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Don't misunderstand me, I didn't say the brembos performance was BAD. Not at all, but I guess my expectations were inflated from there reputation. I don't track the car so I don't see the full benefit of the big brembos either. My back rotors had more than cosmetic scoring, the inside pads were metal on metal by 8000k, while the outside pads were still like new. This is a known issue. The car is going in on Weds for the front rotors being warped. I'm at 11,500 and I don't abuse the brakes. Maybe that's the problem lol. I love this car irregardless.
#108
Senior Member
i've seen 2 come into my dealership. one with 8000km driven by a cop actually where both inside rear pads were pretty much gone. and my buddy's with 16,000km on with only the driver rear. the first one we got the pads warrantied except they are coming from source so who knows when we will be getting them.
#109
I drive 90% highway. Took my car into the dealer on friday and there is no pad left on the LR. They charged me for a brake inspection and said it wasn't under warranty. The left rear had 4mm on the outboard pad and nothing inboard. The RR had 5mm outboard and 3mm inboard. Told me it would cost $175 to fix(cut rotors and replace pads). Discussed it with them for almost and hour and finally got frustrated and left. had a friend cut the rotors and bought some solstice pads. I love paying for brakes at 20k miles
#110
Senior Member
I drive 90% highway. Took my car into the dealer on friday and there is no pad left on the LR. They charged me for a brake inspection and said it wasn't under warranty. The left rear had 4mm on the outboard pad and nothing inboard. The RR had 5mm outboard and 3mm inboard. Told me it would cost $175 to fix(cut rotors and replace pads). Discussed it with them for almost and hour and finally got frustrated and left. had a friend cut the rotors and bought some solstice pads. I love paying for brakes at 20k miles
#111
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i've seen 2 come into my dealership. one with 8000km driven by a cop actually where both inside rear pads were pretty much gone. and my buddy's with 16,000km on with only the driver rear. the first one we got the pads warrantied except they are coming from source so who knows when we will be getting them.
#112
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They warrantied my back pads and resurfaced the rotors. At 8000 miles they would have to. Plus I am keeping the documentation in case the problem continues. They had the car 1 week at that time waiting for the pads. I do not know what pads they ended up putting on, though.
#114
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From what I have been told the Hawk pads have been the best for the rear rotors and I'm guessing any EBC rotor would be a good choice.
#115
Senior Member
BTW were your rotors cross hatched from the factory? My new rotors came with a weird texture on the surface. I believe it was done to promote burnishing. I parked it for now until I get a chance to swap pads.
#116
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ok, so WTF! Took the car in again today because it is pulsing when braking, I assumed the front rotors were warped. I'm at less than 12,000 miles. The rear brakes were replaced and resurfaced at 8000. They just called me, it's the rear brakes AGAIN. The inside rear pads are at 3/32 in less than 4000 miles, while the outside pads are STILL like new. I am glad this is a warranty issue, but what do I need to do---- replace the rear pads every time I change the oil? Very frustrating. Maybe hawk pads would solve the problem, but GM can pay for them. I didn't buy the new car to fix it myself damn it. /rant
Last edited by redninja6r; 04-22-2009 at 10:15 AM.
#118
Senior Member
I can't imagine this being caused by the e-brake binding, or could it?
I need to lift the handle about 3 clicks to hold the car on a steep hill. I think the Haynes manual said it must hold the car within 5 clicks.
I need to lift the handle about 3 clicks to hold the car on a steep hill. I think the Haynes manual said it must hold the car within 5 clicks.
#121
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drivers side rear rotor beyond repair, both rear inner pads are fuked, rear drivers side was metal/metal and the passenger rear was 1-2 days from metal/metal, all warranty but parts are being sourced.........1 week if i'm lucky probably 2
i'm in a POS rental cobalt 2.2 power nothing auto crap
i'm in a POS rental cobalt 2.2 power nothing auto crap
#122
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same thing as me the FIRST time. I was in a G6 for over a week. This time they said drive it until the brakes come in, it's still got 3/32 on the pads.. My concern is, I still think the front rotors are warped. I never thought rear brakes would make the car pulse when braking, especially if the pads are low....
#123
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same thing as me the FIRST time. I was in a G6 for over a week. This time they said drive it until the brakes come in, it's still got 3/32 on the pads.. My concern is, I still think the front rotors are warped. I never thought rear brakes would make the car pulse when braking, especially if the pads are low....
#125
Senior Member
The fronts on my 08 are just fine.....I recently replaced my rear rotors and pads....I think mine were way way worse than anyone's on here. Whats worse is my dealership said that they couldn't do anything about it....So I'm about $360..... I should have just called GM customer service and complained.....I'm stupid for not doing so