umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

I'm really enjoying how many people are doing this. Really makes me want to try it.

QuickSilver_SS

I picked up a new intake manifold gasket. As well as some of the before mentioned gm cleaner. I will also be picking up a tb gasket and some carb or tb cleaner to use on the map sensors to clean them up while I am cleaning the valves as best I can. Bit I have been wondering ? Are you guys also cleaning out the intake manifold itself at all ? Also , is everyone replacing any seals from the hpfp or are you guys just re using them ?

idrinkV8

I replaced the hpfp gasket re used the fuel pipes and sealed up the camshaft end plate and the hpfp, and installed new injector seals, only gaskets I would buy IMO would be the IM gasket and the Hpfp gasket good luck.

Chevy_tuner

iTrader: (1)

More info on this gun kit?

I too was wondering about the intake manifold. I would asume just send to a machine shop and have them sand blast or dip it clean?

After pics look great. I just hit 32k and thought mine would be fine. Guess not.

idrinkV8

I just used a good degreaser and a wash brush came out nice.

Killswitch

click!

T-Man

iTrader: (3)

Do it!

IM gasket really not necessary but good cheap precaution. TB gasket not necessary as it's not necessary to remove the TB from the IM. My IM was clean as a whistle. No need to completely remove the HPFP. You're removing one line that has no seals....

The only time you would need to replace any of the HPFP parts is if you plan on removing the rail, for whatever reason.


IM shouldn't be dirty at all. Gun kit is a simple universal gun kit with multiple brass brushes and cotton roll brushes.

buildmeanempire

iTrader: (5)

As soon as I get my car back, this is going to be at the top of the list. It has 94k miles. God only knows how bad it is but I should take care of it before it gets too out of hand.

Chevy_tuner

iTrader: (1)

Oh gun kit...lol

I got one. I dont know what i was thinking

FF_ace

IM gasket is necessary since its a crush style gasket... but I got the performance autowerks phenolic spacer for the IM and TB

idrinkV8

No I was just saying in my case I changed the injector seals and took care of the hpfp leak since the car was torn apart anyways.

idrinkV8

Cause I had the white seals so I figured why not put the black ones on.

QuickSilver_SS

Silly question. Can anyone point out in a picture for me which line to disconnect off the hpfp that doesn't have a seal so I can put the car back together without a massive fuel leak. Lol

QuickSilver_SS

Also , besides a pic of said part on the hpfp to remove that doesn't require a new gasket. For those oif you that are using a liquid to loosen up and remove the gunk. Are you guys changing your oil right after to assure that none of the fluid leaked into the oil ? With the one set of valves that are open. How are yo guys cleaning those valves ? Are you putting the car in forth or fifth and puching it forward untill they are closed ? And lastly , will soaking the valves in a cleaner like b12 or something else half decent , will that hurt or ruin the valve seals at all ? Or are further up the valve stem and out of the way of being ruined or dameged by cleaning them manually ?

thanks !!

blrt

I'd used shop paper towel and soak them in parts cleaner to clean the valve if you don't want to spray the B12 stuff directly into the chamber? Slower process... However, I will just blast it with walnut shell next time.

QuickSilver_SS

I thought you had to literally fill the port with fluid until the valves and stem were completely submerged in fluid to soak for awhile ??

Soofisahab

iTrader: (2)

Change the oil after as cleaner that gets past valves will leak past piston rings.

Yes, submerge the valves overnight to dissolve carbon.

Here's my post back when I did this back in May:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...ic-etc-297243/

bmartz1991

iTrader: (35)

Download the photobucket app and then copy and paste the image code here.

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Ya I'd like to see a how to on removing the IM if anyone doesn't mind. I have the stuff for walnut blasting, but just need the details. Maybe if anyone has access to the service bulletin on this?

QuickSilver_SS

Exactly....I'm ready to clean mine also. But I need a little more detail as too which line and were to disconnect off the hpfp so I won't need any new seals or gaskets. I detailed how to with pictures is always a plus ! ;-)

FF_ace

its pretty easy guys... I had to take my hot side charge pipe off plugged both the turbo and other half of charge pipe didnt want anything getting inside. then I took the cold side off the throttle body also disconnecting the TB sensor. disconnected all the sensors(map,evap, and the bypass valve) on top of the IM. theres a couple vaccum lines to remove as well. the circular metal piece has 2 10mm bolts bolting it to the IM remove those and loosen the fitting to the cam driven pump move the circular piece out of the way with the fuel line still connected.... remove the black metal brace covering the cam driven pump it has 3 10mm bolts..... the dip stick tube has a 10mm bolt bolting it.to.the IM..... I believe its a 14mm bolt holding the metal brace from the block to the IM... and 10mm bolt holding a brace from the ac line.... the 7 bolts that hold the IM to the head need to be removed and the IM is off... I have been told the IM gasket can not be replaced since its a crush style gasket I use the pwerks phenolic IM and TB spacers since I had a feeling this isnt going to be the last time I pull the IM and they can be re used

QuickSilver_SS

I thought the hpfp didn't have to be taken off to take the IM off ?

FF_ace

my post above is how I did it.... with that process the only gasket needing to be replaced is the IM

Soofisahab

iTrader: (2)

Torque to spec when re-installing....i think im gasket is 20 ft lbs, fuel rail 10-15