2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

clutch for hptune

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Old 12-22-2015 | 08:05 PM
  #26  
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From: Dartmouth
Originally Posted by Haven07
I don't think the flywheel zzp sells is oem, I ordered one a few months ago and it says right on it made in China...
I guess they used to be and now they're not
Old 12-22-2015 | 09:39 PM
  #27  
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Happy clutch is fine for an lnf and comes with a lnf tob. They just say that to help with warranty. I'm putting one in mine with zzp's flywheel which isn't like stock which I believe is made in Germany. The clutch will hold over 400hp with a boost ramp.
The lsj and lnf flywheel are virtually the same.
Old 12-23-2015 | 03:04 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by QuickSilver_SS
So i got my car hp tuned by a local member almost a year ago. My tune isnt all that crazy or aggressive. I beleive it hilds 23psi and spikes 24 once in a while. I think it has 13 or 14 deg of timing with a .86 or .87 lambda. Lol.. I guess what im wondering is amongst all the after market clutches out there. What will hold the power i am making. The stock clutch slips if i go wot at 2800 or so rpm. But if i wait untill 3200 or 3400rpm it holds perfect. It only slips in 3rd and forth. And only for a spkit second and then grabs. I would love to replace it with something with more clamping power and that eill hold more trq. I was thinking the lsj upgraded clutch. But ced website says NOT to install it in an lnf ? Any thoughts and or input ? Thanks
what kind of fuel u using with that 13-14 degrees of timing?
Old 12-23-2015 | 07:49 AM
  #29  
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From: Dartmouth
Originally Posted by tomj77
what kind of fuel u using with that 13-14 degrees of timing?

Going to assume 91oct since that's the best we have around here
Old 12-23-2015 | 08:58 AM
  #30  
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From: Canada , Nova Scotia , Sack Town Baby !!
Originally Posted by tomj77
what kind of fuel u using with that 13-14 degrees of timing?

91 octane. I double checked with my tuner. Im running 13 deg of timing uptop. With 0 kr.
Old 12-23-2015 | 12:28 PM
  #31  
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From: UT
Originally Posted by QuickSilver_SS
I was reading earlier that the only reason gm says to not resurface our fw is to keep the same tob travel. As well as heat transfer. So youbsay you just resurfaced your stock one ?
Yes. A resurface is basically a controlled sanding anyways. I did it with 70k miles and minimal clutch wear so I wasn't worried. The only reason I changed the clutch is because I was replacing the engine and may as well while the trans was out.
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Old 12-23-2015 | 04:43 PM
  #32  
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From: NOR CAL
Originally Posted by Canadia
I guess they used to be and now they're not
Yeah I was kinda bummed that it says made in China I'm gonna throw in a gmpp in a week or so hopefully the flywheel holds
Old 12-25-2015 | 12:58 PM
  #33  
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From: Dartmouth
I still got my old stock clutch and flywheel laying around somewhere lol. Ask Chris to give you a smoother ramp so it doesn't slip as much. But from everything I heard if you got the trans out change the flywheel. I got one from zzp when they were still gm oem ones. I put a clutch in last May and it holds pretty well so far
Old 12-26-2015 | 11:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Snail_SS
To what I've seen they increase the distance of the tob and make it fail. Although some people have resurfaced the flywheel with no problems, or a shim could be used, if I remember correctly on ced it say that gm doesn't recommend to resurface the flywheel aswell, yeah the lsj is cheaper than the lnf
I know this is the general concensus but I just do not buy into it.

Do people really believe that a few hundreds of an inch is make / break with the slave cylinder throw? If so that means even the most minute error in clearances would cause it to fail.

I just don't buy it.

As long as the main surface + the step is machined the same amount I just do not see how this can cause any issues.

If the flywheel has heat cracks then yes I'd throw it away and go new.

If it's just to give it a fresh surface and remove glazing then I personally wouldn't hesitate to have it machined down.

Just my .02 cents. Take it for what it's worth.
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Old 12-27-2015 | 11:02 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by firehawk618
I know this is the general concensus but I just do not buy into it.

Do people really believe that a few hundreds of an inch is make / break with the slave cylinder throw? If so that means even the most minute error in clearances would cause it to fail.

I just don't buy it.

As long as the main surface + the step is machined the same amount I just do not see how this can cause any issues.

If the flywheel has heat cracks then yes I'd throw it away and go new.

If it's just to give it a fresh surface and remove glazing then I personally wouldn't hesitate to have it machined down.

Just my .02 cents. Take it for what it's worth.
Yeah I agree with you, I've mentioned it because that's what has been said here. It should be fine to machine it. I think it comes down to installation error more than the machining but idk since I've never changed the clutch on my vehicle
Old 01-03-2016 | 01:32 PM
  #36  
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I'm running a GMPP clutch on a approximate 325whp tune according to tuner. GMPP holds very well, still no issue after 6 months, however I just go WOT once in a while.

As for the flywheel, go with ZZP like the other members said. I kept mine since it was still in perfect condition after 60000KM. Do not resurface it.

CHANGE YOUR INPUT SHAFT. Mine is making noises right now and I don't feel like opening the tranny again. Not a big issue but still, it's a cheap part, get it done at the same time.
Old 01-03-2016 | 02:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Sinnerx
I'm running a GMPP clutch on a approximate 325whp tune according to tuner. GMPP holds very well, still no issue after 6 months, however I just go WOT once in a while.

As for the flywheel, go with ZZP like the other members said. I kept mine since it was still in perfect condition after 60000KM. Do not resurface it.

CHANGE YOUR INPUT SHAFT. Mine is making noises right now and I don't feel like opening the tranny again. Not a big issue but still, it's a cheap part, get it done at the same time.
Changing the input shaft *I'm assuming bearing* isn't a cheap or easy thing to do.
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