Erratic fuel trims and AFR EVAP?
#1
Erratic fuel trims and AFR EVAP?
Ok long story short, I started to have erratic STFT and My AFR was going crazy at Idle. Not to mention a number of other unexplained symptoms. I decided to pull the vacuum line off the EVAP Solenoid and cap it. VOLA!! problem solved. Everything is back to normal. I removed the Solenoid and tried to blow through it and couldn't. also never had any code. I don't know what went wrong with it but its no good. My question is can I remove the whole system, manifold to tank? I found a post or 2 on this but not much. I would take the vents from the back and tee them into 1 with a vented cap. Would that work? Ive done this before on other cars but I am not sure if there is any ill effect on the LNF. I am not worried about emissions, I have a few shops that would slap a sticker on an old 3 wheeler lol. Any opinions? Thanks in advance
#2
Why not just change the solenoid , it's not expensive. And ud need to tune for removing it I believe since ur ecu would be expecting those vapors. I'd honestly like to remove it to if I could. The less u have to go wrong and deal with when finding a problem the better. I already got rid of rear o2 and bpv solenoid
#3
I was going to by a new one It just seems that a lot of people had problems with it. I have no rear 02 sensor with the ZZP Catless down pipe. I'm tuned for that. With it off, my car seems so much more stable at idle and it drives just fine, actually seems better. I'm not one for just dumping parts off the car but whats the difference if it recirculates through the manifold or vents into the air. I didn't unplug the electrical connection just the vacuum line and capped it. I have the hard vacuum line sitting open till I figure out what I want to do.
#4
I was going to by a new one It just seems that a lot of people had problems with it. I have no rear 02 sensor with the ZZP Catless down pipe. I'm tuned for that. With it off, my car seems so much more stable at idle and it drives just fine, actually seems better. I'm not one for just dumping parts off the car but whats the difference if it recirculates through the manifold or vents into the air. I didn't unplug the electrical connection just the vacuum line and capped it. I have the hard vacuum line sitting open till I figure out what I want to do.
#5
I'm not crazy about pulling the electrical connection and losing my LTFT ability. I cant get retuned right away. I don't smell any fumes, my tank is full. I drove from NY to PA and it was fine. I understand your point about the fumes and hot temps. From my understanding the vacuum from the engine pull the fumes through the solenoid from the tank and there is no positive pressure coming through that vacuum line. Is this correct? Either way I am going see about safely removing the whole system and being done with it. The car seems to like it so much more without it. I found a few more posts of people that removed it and properly vented everything. Just haven't found any long term feedback
#7
#8
I need to just finish ripping out my EVAP lines.
I sent my spare LDK IM to my buddy in NM to cut off and weld the EVAP pad. Make it smooth, shave the rest of the IM and wrinkle coat it red.
I sent my spare LDK IM to my buddy in NM to cut off and weld the EVAP pad. Make it smooth, shave the rest of the IM and wrinkle coat it red.
#9
[QUOTE=blueLNFftw;7597461]I need to just finish ripping out my EVAP lines.
I sent my spare LDK IM to my buddy in NM to cut off and weld the EVAP pad. Make it smooth, shave the rest of the IM and wrinkle coat it red.[/QUOT
I think I need to start removing the evap lines. I see no point in having to deal with this more than once. The cars so smooth, trims r great. If I unplug just the connection with the vacuum line stIll attached and the solenoid is stuck open, then it is always pulling fumes. If it is stuck closed, then it is not allowing the fumes to vent. With the solenoid capped off, and the line off and properly vented out back, it will allow the fumes to vent. Safely. Is this correct?
I sent my spare LDK IM to my buddy in NM to cut off and weld the EVAP pad. Make it smooth, shave the rest of the IM and wrinkle coat it red.[/QUOT
I think I need to start removing the evap lines. I see no point in having to deal with this more than once. The cars so smooth, trims r great. If I unplug just the connection with the vacuum line stIll attached and the solenoid is stuck open, then it is always pulling fumes. If it is stuck closed, then it is not allowing the fumes to vent. With the solenoid capped off, and the line off and properly vented out back, it will allow the fumes to vent. Safely. Is this correct?
#10
Forgot to add that my motor only has 40,000 miles on it. I don't want to seem stubborn to just replace it. I use the car to commute from pa to ny 3 times a week and don't want a reoccurring problem
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