2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Forge BPV Group Buy #2!!!

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Old 03-12-2011, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Zander916
Got mine and installed today. Quite easy to do really.

My stock one DEFINITELY wasn't working right. (I'm at 71K miles btw) Anyone saying that the stock one won't leak boost is full of it. I'm sure they work right at first but do wear out.
It drives SOOOOO much better now. I gained 1.5 lbs of boost. (Up to 22 psi)
But like I said, mine wasn't working right to begin with. Oh, they DO come prelubed.

Thanks very very much gdubs!!
I had the same effect too..... I am holding 24PSI through 3K RPMs of the powerband now. (I didn't put the yellow spring in) Also saw a spike at 26 PSI I am going to the track tonight. My car feels 20% faster now.
Old 03-12-2011, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ssblackstealth
dart my intake clamp was in the way too, i fliped it around so that is closer to the engine instead of the firewall, much easier to tighten down without the bpv in the way
i just used a long screwdriver. its pretty easy and the bvp doesnt get in the way too much. i took my intake off to install the bpv tho.
Old 03-12-2011, 01:07 PM
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yea i took mine off as well, but just fliped the for easier access ya kno..
just throwin that out there lol
Old 03-12-2011, 01:59 PM
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Here is mine installed
Old 03-12-2011, 02:18 PM
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got mine installed today too
Old 03-12-2011, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Zander916
Got mine and installed today. Quite easy to do really.

My stock one DEFINITELY wasn't working right. (I'm at 71K miles btw) Anyone saying that the stock one won't leak boost is full of it. I'm sure they work right at first but do wear out. It drives SOOOOO much better now. I gained 1.5 lbs of boost. (Up to 22 psi)
OK...what was the condition of the stocker...that would be a big help here. Any tears?
Pics of the stocker would really be nice for us guys still stock.
Old 03-12-2011, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ronn
OK...what was the condition of the stocker...that would be a big help here. Any tears?
Pics of the stocker would really be nice for us guys still stock.
The stocker really isnt ALL that bad of a design, the problem is just that rubber diaphragm that sits over top of the spring can get worn, crack, split, tear or just not operate as originally intended. Meaning that half the diaphragm will operate and kind of "fold" over the other half. I don't think the majority of us will be having any issues in the not too distant future as these cars arent really that high in mileage/use yet. The forge DV eliminates any potential splits/tears/worn part. Reliability, can't put a price on that.
Old 03-12-2011, 10:43 PM
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I tried to make a video explaining what I think the problem is but neither my phone or video sites are really cooperating. So here it is in a short explanation.
Mine is NOT torn, cracked, or anything. The diaphragm is in very good condition.

If you look at your stocker you'll notice on the tan plastic cover on the inside there's a small cylinder. On the diaphragm there's a small shaft that fits inside of that cylinder. If you assemble them in your hand and fully depress it (as if it were releasing) you may notice that you can still "rock" it side to side. At least on mine I can quite a bit. There's a LOT of play even fully seated. If it's not fully seated it can rock even more.
Keep in mind that if your boost gage reads 0psi, that's at the manifold and on one side of the bpv. The turbo side might be seeing positive pressure. Now if you imagine that pressure is seeking a place for escape, it will find a way. If it can rock that diaphragm to one side it's not taking on the full pressure of the spring.

Hope that makes sense.
Old 03-13-2011, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Zander916
I tried to make a video explaining what I think the problem is but neither my phone or video sites are really cooperating. So here it is in a short explanation.
Mine is NOT torn, cracked, or anything. The diaphragm is in very good condition.

If you look at your stocker you'll notice on the tan plastic cover on the inside there's a small cylinder. On the diaphragm there's a small shaft that fits inside of that cylinder. If you assemble them in your hand and fully depress it (as if it were releasing) you may notice that you can still "rock" it side to side. At least on mine I can quite a bit. There's a LOT of play even fully seated. If it's not fully seated it can rock even more.
Keep in mind that if your boost gage reads 0psi, that's at the manifold and on one side of the bpv. The turbo side might be seeing positive pressure. Now if you imagine that pressure is seeking a place for escape, it will find a way. If it can rock that diaphragm to one side it's not taking on the full pressure of the spring.

Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the input.
So we know your stock BPV was in *very good condition* with 71K mi on it. That's good to know. The question is ..were you loosing boost because it wasn't operating efficiently?
After all, it was still holding over 20lbs (around my boost level), but as you say..you got another 1.5 lbs with the Forge. If that's an accurate observation, then there are two possibilities: (1) Stock valve was leaking boost or (2) The Forge was HOLDING a bit more than you would *normally* hold.

Your description above seems to imply that the stock valve wasn't seating FLUSH against the port opening...it may have been askew or offset to one side. I'm not so sure that's happening..at least to the degree that it would allow a boost leak.

Take a look here. You can see that the valve face is considerably LARGER than the opening from the pressureized side. It would take considerable mis-alignment to allow air to escape a fully closed valve.



As you are aware....
The force applied to this valve is equal to the boost pressure at the time (which is pushing through the line to the valve) PLUS the spring rating (8 lbs). So unless the valve is cracked, there is no way the boost in the turbo can overcome the force of the valve. Once vacuum (lifting) is applied to the line which exceeds 8lbs, the valve is forced open.

I'm not saying your explanation is wrong..I don't know if some side to side movement inside the valve is normal, but I would assume even a new one would shift when done so MANUALLY when pulled off and not operating under pressure from the line.

Here's some pics. You can see that the inner metal piston could easily be manually shifted from side to side, since it's surrounded by softer material.





I think the Forge is a great peice..no doubt...and is much more substantial as well. However, it will require regular servicing (lubing). So the question remains..Did you really lose boost with the stock valve? Some will say, "So what, he gained boost"! Perhaps, but
that's a far cry from saying the stock valve (in your case) was defective in some way.
Old 03-13-2011, 01:46 AM
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actually... Forge has customers that have never lubed theirs with 50k plus miles and they look brand new
Old 03-13-2011, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gdubs
actually... Forge has customers that have never lubed theirs with 50k plus miles and they look brand new
Not exactly the same model, but you get the drift:

Reminder:Lube up your Forge BPV valve

How to Service your Forge BPV - Mazdaspeed Forums

Scionlife.com - View Single Post - FYI: Maintenance on a Forge 007 Bypass Valve

Quote:
Unless you live in an especially dusty area I would say no more often than
yearly. You might want to just check it's operation every other oil change
for a little bit unitl you get a feel for when it might show signs of being
contaminated. This varies not just because of the environment that you're in
but also because each car's pcv and air filters vary so much in condition
and effectiveness and this leads directly to entry into the vacuum hoses.

Just push up on the piston and block off the vac port, if the piston falls
more than about halfway or so or just gradually creeps down, then it needs
service. If it remains up and snaps shut after you release the vac port,
then all is well. If it requires service you generally just need to wipe it
out and replace the grease with some mobil one synthetic bearing grease or
equivalent. If the piston, body, or o-rings are damaged let us know and we
can get you replacements.

Regards,

Angel Robles
US Director of Operations
Forge Motorsport

Last edited by ronn; 03-13-2011 at 04:15 AM.
Old 03-13-2011, 01:32 PM
  #462  
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Just wanted to say I installed mine yesterday. I have a SRI that I didn't want to take off, and a ratchet that was not a very fine mechanism so getting those bolts in and out was a PITA. Well worth it though. I used the green spring and was pushing 21psi with it and not a bit of boost leaked as far as I could tell. I like the sound of it, it's a bit louder at lower psi and a more crisp sound so you can tell it's working better then stock.
Old 03-13-2011, 02:26 PM
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Anyone know the bolt and thread size of the bolts on the bpv? I need 3 more for a spare turbo I have.
Old 03-13-2011, 04:44 PM
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Stock BPV Take off wanted

I'm interested in getting hold of a stock BPV take off for those who just installed the Forge.
It must be in PRIMO condition..preferably from a car with less than 20K mi on it.
PM me if you're interested in selling it.
Old 03-13-2011, 05:15 PM
  #465  
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I have the Hahn CAI and I just removed the hose clamp on main section of the intake and then removed the one on the turbo... removed the intake section from the turbo to the main piping... gave me quick access to the BPV, used a small extension to get the bolt on the back and the one on the front, the top one is easy to access...

pretty simple install


my turbo is liking the new piece a lot more I don't get near as many weird ass "hisses" from the turbo that I was getting before

I never got a chance to thank you GDubs as I was out of town last week but thanks for putting this together for us, went flawlessly and is highly appreciated
Old 03-14-2011, 11:08 AM
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any update for the canucks, unless I'm the only one lol
Old 03-14-2011, 12:49 PM
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Thanks Gdubs!

Now I just need to free up some time and install it.
Old 03-14-2011, 09:35 PM
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^ it shouldn't take long and is EASY... 3 10mm bolts... I do advice removing the intake section though makes access to those bolts MUCH easier... once installed, you can change the spring in about 10 seconds
Old 03-14-2011, 09:43 PM
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does anybody prefer the yellow spring or is everyone just saying green spring ftw?
Old 03-14-2011, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by G Speed
any update for the canucks, unless I'm the only one lol
Nothing on my end. I'm hoping either this week or next. Be patient because customs are usually in no hurry to begin with.
Old 03-14-2011, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dart_SI
does anybody prefer the yellow spring or is everyone just saying green spring ftw?
I'm tuned to 24 psi and the green spring is holding boost fine. I haven't tried the yellow, but since the green works no need to change. I think some people were having trouble with the yellow spring opening under light boost.
Old 03-14-2011, 09:45 PM
  #472  
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not that it matters. but was pretty much all the paint scratched off the springs or was it just me?
Old 03-14-2011, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Squintz
Nothing on my end. I'm hoping either this week or next. Be patient because customs are usually in no hurry to begin with.
he just pm'd me.. all CDN orders shipping tomorrow... you should have it next week... ny to bc... I may have it this week.... ny to on
Old 03-14-2011, 09:57 PM
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I'm tuned to 24 psi on my selectable tune(15 psi low), which spring should I use whenever it comes in?? Its at my ex's crib right now thumbsdow
Old 03-14-2011, 10:00 PM
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See couple posts above.


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