just to prove i dont really have anything to hide, went to the track a couple weeks ago. coastal plains slip n slide spinfest and 85+ degrees out. boost was still jumping around in 3rd and 4th, overboost in 3rd causing throttle cut and crap... so i turned the wga back as far as i could and it was very inconsistent, boost would flutter in 3rd and 4th bc the wga arm was TOO loose. anyways spinning through 1st and 2nd w/ traction control on (which pulls throttle when it wants to spin) and clutch slipping (damn i dont wanna spend $1000)

14.2 @ 106 w/ a 2.5 sixty

13.7 @ 103 w/ a 2.2 sixty

spinfest and clutch slip FTL

should be trapping 110ish or so once its running right

 

Different car, same problems.

 

bahaha, no kidding.

if i cant get this thing right im going to get a mopar stage 1 and clamp it. but im going to keep my hopes up for this thing, or that they update the flash and re-flash for us.

 

Matt, I told him. Several times.

He kept saying "Uhh, man, I got this, damn got Caliber, uhh, yeah."



You need to take me for another ride when it's right.

 

Everyone seems to have kissed and made up, but thought I'd throw in this info for fun.

I know this will seem an odd point of view with mod centric cars, but once you start the modding its pointless to try and judge which car is better, as we've seen depending on how many mods you make, either one could win.

So, IMO, you start by just looking at the stock vs. stock situation. That should be an indicator of the relative advantages of one platform versus another.

Happily, C&D compared the Cobalt SS/TC and Caliber SRT-4 on the same track on the same day. So here are the subjective opinions on both:
http://www.caranddriver.com/features...balt_ss_page_2
http://www.caranddriver.com/features...er_srt4_page_3

The objective numbers from VIR:
CAR LAP TIME
Cobalt SS/TC 03:13.0
Cobalt SS/SC 03:20.6 (different day, same track)
Dodge CSRT4 03:20.8

Seems to me that, being 300 lbs lighter, having LSD and a better chasis and lower price makes the Turbo Cobalt the objective choice as a starting point.

But, this is the world of cars and for car enthusiasts picking which one is going to be "your" car is very much a subjective decision

 

absolutely correct, this car wasnt even "on my radar" in all honesty. ive always liked them, i even considered a tc/ss... however i paid 16500 for the csrt4, got a damn good deal on it w/ 11k miles on it, and they paid off my scion tC. wasnt getting no ss/tc for that, ive seen. new for new, who knows. i also wanted to be different, theres 3 of these in town... one of which has maryland tags on it

i was originally on a hardcore search for a cts-v, magnum/charger/300 srt8.... i looked and looked and looked and couldnt find one within my price range that wasnt ragged out or high mileage. i drove up to a big ass toyota dealership looking for a new car, i was fed up with my scion and was gonna drive off with something that day, whatever i drove and liked i was coming home with if i could afford it.

drove several cars, test drove this one and thought hard about it. insurance was cheaper, much better on gas, still quick, 4 doors, and other than wrong wheel drive, seemed to be a good deal.. so i did it



hole?

 

its a good thing you got rid of your scion otherwise you could end up like this



and this is what I would say

 

only need to go fast, dont need no brakes.

 

i heard the fix for the toyota recall was an ejection seat, parachute, n a GTFO button on the dash.

 

nice

 

Just joined. The conversation here was good enough to get me to register . I have a 08 CSRT4 (DP, Intake, Stage 1) and my best friend has 08 SS/TC (DP, intake, trifecta tune)

Multiple 40 rolls:

CSRT: DP + Intake
SS/TC: Intake + NLS

SS by bumper -> 1/2 car. He claims i might win if he were driving it (as he has driven mine). As it probably should with the dp..

I haven't ran him since he got his tune and DP put on. I'll be installing my WGA + Stage 1 within this week and will be doing some more runs to compare.

Numbers just for fun.. that's all they are, numbers.

CSRT Stage 1 (16 PSI Max) w/ supporting mods: 300whp/300trq (limited by S1)
CSRT Stage 1 Clamped (17.8PSI max) w/ supporting mods: 330whp/330-350wtq

PTP Stage 1 (17 PSI) Intake / Cat delete: 330whp/340wtq
PTP Stage 2 (19 PSI) DP, WGA, CAI, Plugs, FMIC: 365whp/399wtq (on test car in germany)

Realtune Stage 1 + 2 (FIC, rebuilt stock turbo): 400whp+/400wtq+

PTP Stage 2 has had problems in the states with people making the numbers and a majority of those calibers don't have the supporting mods. I also went that route but have decided to go with the MS1 then will clamp.

All in all i love my CSRT. I think Cobalt TCs are awesome. My friend is on the forums but im not sure if it is this one. He said it seems to be a nice mature community which is nice.

Happy modding and tunning! Results to come

 

I don't know about all that. Welcome!!!

 

hell, we can get in a downright **** fit over on the csrt4 forums. guess we havent been here long enough to witness it here. lol..

 

It's an decent forum, there are a lot of good people on it so far. You do have your "my car eats CCX's from a roll crowd though"

 

urs wont? jk jk


ill stick around and read about em. seems like yall have better luck getting this things to run at the track than we do.

 

This forum is full of sorry to offend anyone but retards...

Go back 3-4 years and yeah it was a mature, chill and very informative place... now it's all boyfriends this, girlfriends that, which BOV works the best... and this Mother F'er scammed me.

Efactors car will be a whole new animal as soon as he gets up here and I get this thing tuned up right for him...

Then he can go caliber huntin'.... I know the one up here in raleigh didn't fare so well against me!

 

I have only seen one CSRT in person around my area. Considering I never even see them, I doubt I'll be racing one.

 

I got picked on by a black one up here... all I know is it had an exhaust and the sneeze mod... but after that I couldn't hear anything a block away from it!

 

thats fine. get it tuned and we can go run em when mines running right. id like to see how bad i get beat... which im sure i will. i dont expect to be the fastest car on the road... hell, im damn near driving a 4 door minivan right?

what was done to the one up in raliegh? edit: nvm, i need to read better. i know id **** bricks all over one with just exhaust and a bov and im still on stock exhaust, surge valve, paper air filter, stock downpipe, stock ic, etc. lmao.

shitty thing about calibers are we have no standalone tuner. its either piggyback, or ms1/clamp and flash.

i MAY fic/piggyback it. kinda sketched on cutting a bunch of pcm wires though.

 

I don't understand what a clamp is.

 

I know several people who left here becasue they couldn't take the immaturity...

I don't see it that often - unless it's a cobalt bashing, or "how come I can only get to 170mph?" thread... and there are many of them...

I will say that in all, it is alot better here than the local SRT4 site...

 

map/tip clamp. its pretty much just a potentiometer (variable resistor) that hides voltage
(therefore hiding boost). setting it to a certain voltage hides boost and can lean the car out some, gotta be careful doing this.

even doing a mopar stage 1 the pcm is still limiting it to 15psi, so clamp it to hide the boost from the pcm, problem here is you need a wideband, something to monitor knock and a mechanical boost gauge bc our factory one is electrically controlled.


from realtune....

""""

Origional: aaronneon@realtune

What is a map clamp?


very simple. The clamp hides boost from the PCM, which in turn keeps timing high. It also leans the fuel curve out.

Why do you ask? Real simple. Every turbo car from the Factory is programed to give more fuel and less timing when the ecu reads higher boost. Now this is dependent to the map sensor. Via 2 bar or 3 bar..or whatever. The map sensor reads the boost and sends a signal via 5 volt , voltage to the pcm. The higher the volts, the more fuel and less timing the motor will see. THis is done to keep yahoos from blowing their motors. The thing is, Mopar went over board with it. They claim that the EGTs[ exhaust temps] get to high with increased boost. That basically means that turning up the boost, even with a healthy A/F ratio can melt your motor. Thats not a good thing. Now we solve that problem via the map clamp. The map clamp will keep the timing high, in turn bleeds some of the EGTs off. I have proven this a million times. Im not going to get into anymore of that crap.


The map clamp will only allow a certain voltage pass through to the pcm. As i stated before the higher the voltage seen by the pcm, the lower the timing and more fuel you get. We all know the srt runs very rich from the factory. So just leaning it out some will make power, let alone raising timing. The map clamp is adjustable so it can act like a fuel mod also. Its basically a crude SAFC, which is a map clamp per rpm instead of per boost. \

 

modding Mopars has always been an annoying adventure.

 

Whats wrong with minivans I have one almost ready to run (actually just need to finish up the w/a ic set up and tune it) Never mind its a awd, 5 spd, only weighs 2750 lbs running on a TDO6H-20G, upgrade clutch, yada, yada, the thing is shorter then my HHR SS

The HHR SS is fixing to be a decent runner also within the next 2-3 weeks, if my transmission doesn't take dump right after I put the stuff on. Seems like all the rage going on right now, transmission breaking thats 2 I know of that lost 2nd gear this week, BYT and someone else thats keeping it on the DL.

I'm sure glad my wife loves me

Are those caliber SRT's rare, I think I've only seen one on the road and 2 at the dealers locally? I almost bought one over my HHR SS, I actually like the looks better, but I needed the space inside, the Caliber SRT is a little more cramped.

 

nice, yea they are pretty rare. mine has enough room for me, i havent been in an HHR, so i dunno how they are room wise. mine doesnt seem cramped to me, but thats coming from a scion tc coupe