How the hell did I lose to a stock Caliber SRT-4?
#176
map/tip clamp. its pretty much just a potentiometer (variable resistor) that hides voltage
(therefore hiding boost). setting it to a certain voltage hides boost and can lean the car out some, gotta be careful doing this.
even doing a mopar stage 1 the pcm is still limiting it to 15psi, so clamp it to hide the boost from the pcm, problem here is you need a wideband, something to monitor knock and a mechanical boost gauge bc our factory one is electrically controlled.
from realtune....
""""
Origional: aaronneon@realtune
What is a map clamp?
very simple. The clamp hides boost from the PCM, which in turn keeps timing high. It also leans the fuel curve out.
Why do you ask? Real simple. Every turbo car from the Factory is programed to give more fuel and less timing when the ecu reads higher boost. Now this is dependent to the map sensor. Via 2 bar or 3 bar..or whatever. The map sensor reads the boost and sends a signal via 5 volt , voltage to the pcm. The higher the volts, the more fuel and less timing the motor will see. THis is done to keep yahoos from blowing their motors. The thing is, Mopar went over board with it. They claim that the EGTs[ exhaust temps] get to high with increased boost. That basically means that turning up the boost, even with a healthy A/F ratio can melt your motor. Thats not a good thing. Now we solve that problem via the map clamp. The map clamp will keep the timing high, in turn bleeds some of the EGTs off. I have proven this a million times. Im not going to get into anymore of that crap.
The map clamp will only allow a certain voltage pass through to the pcm. As i stated before the higher the voltage seen by the pcm, the lower the timing and more fuel you get. We all know the srt runs very rich from the factory. So just leaning it out some will make power, let alone raising timing. The map clamp is adjustable so it can act like a fuel mod also. Its basically a crude SAFC, which is a map clamp per rpm instead of per boost. \
(therefore hiding boost). setting it to a certain voltage hides boost and can lean the car out some, gotta be careful doing this.
even doing a mopar stage 1 the pcm is still limiting it to 15psi, so clamp it to hide the boost from the pcm, problem here is you need a wideband, something to monitor knock and a mechanical boost gauge bc our factory one is electrically controlled.
from realtune....
""""
Origional: aaronneon@realtune
What is a map clamp?
very simple. The clamp hides boost from the PCM, which in turn keeps timing high. It also leans the fuel curve out.
Why do you ask? Real simple. Every turbo car from the Factory is programed to give more fuel and less timing when the ecu reads higher boost. Now this is dependent to the map sensor. Via 2 bar or 3 bar..or whatever. The map sensor reads the boost and sends a signal via 5 volt , voltage to the pcm. The higher the volts, the more fuel and less timing the motor will see. THis is done to keep yahoos from blowing their motors. The thing is, Mopar went over board with it. They claim that the EGTs[ exhaust temps] get to high with increased boost. That basically means that turning up the boost, even with a healthy A/F ratio can melt your motor. Thats not a good thing. Now we solve that problem via the map clamp. The map clamp will keep the timing high, in turn bleeds some of the EGTs off. I have proven this a million times. Im not going to get into anymore of that crap.
The map clamp will only allow a certain voltage pass through to the pcm. As i stated before the higher the voltage seen by the pcm, the lower the timing and more fuel you get. We all know the srt runs very rich from the factory. So just leaning it out some will make power, let alone raising timing. The map clamp is adjustable so it can act like a fuel mod also. Its basically a crude SAFC, which is a map clamp per rpm instead of per boost. \
What type of A/F ratios do you see with this clamp on? Added timing under high boost is looking for BIG trouble. Under high boost you really need A/Fs that are probably in the low 10's under WOT.
#178
#180
Just joined. The conversation here was good enough to get me to register . I have a 08 CSRT4 (DP, Intake, Stage 1) and my best friend has 08 SS/TC (DP, intake, trifecta tune)
Multiple 40 rolls:
CSRT: DP + Intake
SS/TC: Intake + NLS
SS by bumper -> 1/2 car. He claims i might win if he were driving it (as he has driven mine). As it probably should with the dp..
I haven't ran him since he got his tune and DP put on. I'll be installing my WGA + Stage 1 within this week and will be doing some more runs to compare.
Numbers just for fun.. that's all they are, numbers.
CSRT Stage 1 (16 PSI Max) w/ supporting mods: 300whp/300trq (limited by S1)
CSRT Stage 1 Clamped (17.8PSI max) w/ supporting mods: 330whp/330-350wtq
PTP Stage 1 (17 PSI) Intake / Cat delete: 330whp/340wtq
PTP Stage 2 (19 PSI) DP, WGA, CAI, Plugs, FMIC: 365whp/399wtq (on test car in germany)
Realtune Stage 1 + 2 (FIC, rebuilt stock turbo): 400whp+/400wtq+
PTP Stage 2 has had problems in the states with people making the numbers and a majority of those calibers don't have the supporting mods. I also went that route but have decided to go with the MS1 then will clamp.
All in all i love my CSRT. I think Cobalt TCs are awesome. My friend is on the forums but im not sure if it is this one. He said it seems to be a nice mature community which is nice.
Happy modding and tunning! Results to come
Multiple 40 rolls:
CSRT: DP + Intake
SS/TC: Intake + NLS
SS by bumper -> 1/2 car. He claims i might win if he were driving it (as he has driven mine). As it probably should with the dp..
I haven't ran him since he got his tune and DP put on. I'll be installing my WGA + Stage 1 within this week and will be doing some more runs to compare.
Numbers just for fun.. that's all they are, numbers.
CSRT Stage 1 (16 PSI Max) w/ supporting mods: 300whp/300trq (limited by S1)
CSRT Stage 1 Clamped (17.8PSI max) w/ supporting mods: 330whp/330-350wtq
PTP Stage 1 (17 PSI) Intake / Cat delete: 330whp/340wtq
PTP Stage 2 (19 PSI) DP, WGA, CAI, Plugs, FMIC: 365whp/399wtq (on test car in germany)
Realtune Stage 1 + 2 (FIC, rebuilt stock turbo): 400whp+/400wtq+
PTP Stage 2 has had problems in the states with people making the numbers and a majority of those calibers don't have the supporting mods. I also went that route but have decided to go with the MS1 then will clamp.
All in all i love my CSRT. I think Cobalt TCs are awesome. My friend is on the forums but im not sure if it is this one. He said it seems to be a nice mature community which is nice.
Happy modding and tunning! Results to come
#181
my buddies neon srt4 on 30psi w/ a gt3076 run mid to high 11 afrs.
eh??
Last edited by CALIBRTD; 06-12-2010 at 10:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#182
Definately not stock dude.. I kill modded SRT-4s with ease.. at least 3 - 7 tenths in the quarter.. I've smoked stage I's pretty hard, and even a modded one who also said he was stock. Quite the liar cuz I saw under his hood while sitting in my car beside him and he had an intake that I could see, not to mention his exhaust was VERY loud, most likely a downpipe and possibly full 3" exhaust. I dunno, but he was bitching pretty hard to his other SRT-4 buddies on his cell phone. This was at the track.. no roll **** or anything. Btw, if ur gonna do a roll.. brake boost that bitch. My tires light up if I do that and it takes off really hard. I have charge pipes and a tune, nothing more, for now. I beat another stage I also at the track last year by half a second with just a tune. This guy ur racing is definately not stock or your car has no compression cuz I've yet to lose to an SRT-4 stock or otherwise. I do admit, they are quicker than speed 3's tho lol.
One other thing.. I turn off all that electronic crap that's supposed to give us traction.. it ****** slows us down dude.. after it says competitive mode, keep holding the button until it says ESC off.. pretty much everything's turned off, although I have experienced it still wanting to bog and retard **** on the 1-2 shift.. it's pretty finnicky there no matter what. A local guy here ran like a 16 sec run with it on.. improved to a 14.5 after I told him the same thing and he's bone stock, never ran the car before.
One other thing.. I turn off all that electronic crap that's supposed to give us traction.. it ****** slows us down dude.. after it says competitive mode, keep holding the button until it says ESC off.. pretty much everything's turned off, although I have experienced it still wanting to bog and retard **** on the 1-2 shift.. it's pretty finnicky there no matter what. A local guy here ran like a 16 sec run with it on.. improved to a 14.5 after I told him the same thing and he's bone stock, never ran the car before.
#183
One other thing.. I turn off all that electronic crap that's supposed to give us traction.. it ****** slows us down dude.. after it says competitive mode, keep holding the button until it says ESC off.. pretty much everything's turned off, although I have experienced it still wanting to bog and retard **** on the 1-2 shift.. it's pretty finnicky there no matter what. A local guy here ran like a 16 sec run with it on.. improved to a 14.5 after I told him the same thing and he's bone stock, never ran the car before.[/QUOTE]
I have to dissagree with you on that one. At the strip... i tried that. Will not ever do it again. lol.. Stage I with slicks.. and i had Tq steer that about slapped me into the wall. Limited slip not possitrack. Was an Unsuccessefull launch.
I have to dissagree with you on that one. At the strip... i tried that. Will not ever do it again. lol.. Stage I with slicks.. and i had Tq steer that about slapped me into the wall. Limited slip not possitrack. Was an Unsuccessefull launch.
#186
Slicks might help ya.. I'm on street tires and the minute they break traction, which is at about 1200 rpm, the computer starts cutting power, adding brakes, retarding timing, etc. a 2.2 60' just became a 2.6 or maybe worse, God only knows cuz I'll never do it again. I do part throttle 1st gear launches to get a consistent 2.2 60' I've tried other launches to no avail.. got a higher mph a couple times but the et went down by close to half a second.
I have to dissagree with you on that one. At the strip... i tried that. Will not ever do it again. lol.. Stage I with slicks.. and i had Tq steer that about slapped me into the wall. Limited slip not possitrack. Was an Unsuccessefull launch.[/QUOTE]
One other thing.. I turn off all that electronic crap that's supposed to give us traction.. it ****** slows us down dude.. after it says competitive mode, keep holding the button until it says ESC off.. pretty much everything's turned off, although I have experienced it still wanting to bog and retard **** on the 1-2 shift.. it's pretty finnicky there no matter what. A local guy here ran like a 16 sec run with it on.. improved to a 14.5 after I told him the same thing and he's bone stock, never ran the car before.
#187
A cali tuned by http://www.singhautosport.com/index2.html
A stage 1 cali is limited by the ecm to 300hp & 300 trq and 16psi anything above that is
clamped , flashed or fic ..
A stage 1 cali is limited by the ecm to 300hp & 300 trq and 16psi anything above that is
clamped , flashed or fic ..
Last edited by BowTieCobaltSSSC; 06-14-2010 at 11:52 AM. Reason: change about to above
#189
A cali tuned by http://www.singhautosport.com/index2.html
A stage 1 cali is limited by the ecm to 300hp & 300 trq and 16psi anything about that is
clamped , flashed or fic ..
A stage 1 cali is limited by the ecm to 300hp & 300 trq and 16psi anything about that is
clamped , flashed or fic ..
plus, we all know everything on the interwebz is true!
#190
#191
I saw a good 10 to 15 maybe more.
I if there was two guys willing to dyno there C-STR4 and there SS/TC and go to a drag strip and make a video about it i would change my mind...
But seeing as I cant finANY c-srt4 beating ss/tc I will go with the better car.
#192
Just saying. Glad you guys found the CaliberSRT4.net thread. I was going to link to it for you guys.
285 BHP
267 WHP
260 TQ
Stage 1:
308 BHP
297 WHP
300 TQ
That 19 PSI Kraftwerks flash is a dud for most if you don`t have supporting mods.
Kraftworks also has a 17 PSI flash wich is more reliable but... doesn`t really pull better than clamped Stage 1.
Last edited by mouser; 06-14-2010 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#195
A cali tuned by http://www.singhautosport.com/index2.html
A stage 1 cali is limited by the ecm to 300hp & 300 trq and 16psi anything ABOVE that is
clamped , flashed or fic ..
A stage 1 cali is limited by the ecm to 300hp & 300 trq and 16psi anything ABOVE that is
clamped , flashed or fic ..
Right
#196
(regarding clutches)
FYI, I could go about selecting any random car issue an SS/TC owner reported and use that as the norm.
Fact is, out clutch holds pretty well right up to past 350WHP. At around 400WHP, you better change the clutch.
Some dirt on our CSRT4s:
- Factory issue with torque specs caused some of our spoilers to unbolt on vibration (I lost 2 bolts on that!)
- Factory issue with torque specs caused some 2007-08 models to have bad tie rods. Not limited to CSRT4.
- Handling issue caused by dealers forgetting to remove shipping orange spacers in the coil springs
- Sunroof B Pillar drain tube sometimes pinched at factory or clogged with time causes water pooling behind driver seat.
Thats about it for the recurring problems, off the top of my head. Anything else would be out of the ordinary.
FYI, I could go about selecting any random car issue an SS/TC owner reported and use that as the norm.
Fact is, out clutch holds pretty well right up to past 350WHP. At around 400WHP, you better change the clutch.
Some dirt on our CSRT4s:
- Factory issue with torque specs caused some of our spoilers to unbolt on vibration (I lost 2 bolts on that!)
- Factory issue with torque specs caused some 2007-08 models to have bad tie rods. Not limited to CSRT4.
- Handling issue caused by dealers forgetting to remove shipping orange spacers in the coil springs
- Sunroof B Pillar drain tube sometimes pinched at factory or clogged with time causes water pooling behind driver seat.
Thats about it for the recurring problems, off the top of my head. Anything else would be out of the ordinary.
#198
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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Joined: 09-24-09
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From: Fort Bragg, NC
LOL, yeah, I suck at roll 40's anyways. I hit every gear right, but I guess it shows who is the better driver than the car. An obivously he was the better driver and gave me bit a respect for the Caliber SRT-4. I'll go at him again, except I'm doing a dig this time and maybe one 20 roll to 100mph. I'm sure blueberry will jumped at me and say "get a tuned", which I'm holding off until I get my full bolt on's. Like Catted DP and Catback, then I'll do the tune.
#199
If ya ask me running these vehicles with any sort of hard parts with no tune...asking for trouble and Losses. Not to mention factory tune..even the gms1 im not to fond of. i imagine we got some guys on the board that will tune that monster for ya. Me dont race my lil chebby. i leave that up to another good GM idea that was killed just when things started to get interesting kinda like our TC bolts... Buick GN
#200
Hey guys just thought I'd stop in to say high and give you guys a little info about the CSRT that you guys are reading about. Its a new should I say "experimental" flash that is in the works that only a handful of people have at the moment including myself. It prefers to have a car with mods but can run on a car with only a aftermarket wastegate (the one in this race). It pushes 19psi on a stock turbo/injector Caliber SRT4 and makes 340whp minimum . As for adding anything else to the "flash" you can expect to see upwards of 370whp still on stock injectors/turbo but right now we are ironing the bugs out so expect to see some more really fast CSRT4's...