does this work if you run a BOV?

** how would it differ if any if you run a BOV?

 

this system is integrated into the PCV. Unless something is weird, or I am missing something, the BOV has nothing to do with the PCV. If you have changed the K04 to an S256 for example, more work is required but its not a deal breaker, Saturday BLRT is getting one installed on his S256

 

buy a borescope online for a few bucks and have a look take pictures etc... lol

 

Would something like this work? Hopefully my little netbook can run it. I'll definitely give it a go!

 

^^^Hey Vahdyx, thats a good price. Let me know how it works.

To use it, take the hose off the brake boost connector to the front right of the inlet manifold, unscrew the fitting and go in therel lotsa room. You should be able to see the valves fine,and check out the pictures posted here of what coked up valves look like... if you are not under warranty, removing the inlet manifold and blasting the valve stems with walnut shell media and vacuum to clean will work. It is a common practice in the industry, as all the DI engines do this and BMW et al recommend this service and charge way too much for it. Of course, its a BMW.

Funny thing is, a friend opined that GM engineering recommended the walnut blast procedure, but GM service under warranty (at least up here) strip the head off the car and do it the long , expensive, way. For what ever reason.

Its not a big deal (well other than coking makes the car run poorly,and the PCV system upgrade from me will help rectify the situation) - along with tier one gasoline of high octane, low ash engine oil, and paying attention to driving cycles...

I use 0w40 euro spec Mobil 1 oil in my wntrbtr2 but it is not as low ash as Mobil 1 esp. I pay about 12 dollars a litre. Before everyone goes crazy about oil prices, I pay about 3.69 dollars for french alps Evian bottled water (1.5 ml) well....not anymore, I fill a water bottle at home for nothing haha.

Its all pretty exciting for you to find things like the 38 dollar boroscope. I nearly sprung big bux for the snap on tool, but Gloria in the office threw a fit lol Hope what you found works..

 

Excited to see how Todds turns out since we have the same turbo setup. Will be getting this done in the spring. Car is sleeping.

 

i just realized gloria never got back to me.. i was originally "suppose" to be on that list of the first few sent out but never heard anything since then regarding payment

 

Gloria says she has you and one other person who wanted units eary on, and we sure can ship out, I am trying to get onto a car this afternoon to finish the pictorial install instructions, but I keep having to answer emails and pms lol

So short answer please send her another email with your shipping address, so it can not get missed, I think you will be very happy with the result. Dont forget to cross reference "padlock" with your real name cheers and thanks John

 

Hey fellows,

I started working on this at 2ish and it's close to 4pm right now and I'm currently waiting on John's response on my current problem.

Anyway, here's my problem...



As you can see I either did something wrong for it to not fit, or it's just not gonna work for me at this moment. I haven't tightened anything down and I'm currently at a loss.


****Edit****

John and I just spoke, his customer service is unreal! I've never experienced customer service this good in my entire life! I'm super happy with John Powell

Anyway, he's making a different bracket for me to help with some clearance for me and he'll get it out as soon as possible.

 

Is anybody going to do a check up on their gunk buildup after installing this? Like a before install and after install kind of progress. Not doubting John's work or anything...just me being curious

 

I am monitoring Loki's and Wangspeed is checking his, but the problem is its hard to ask folks to go find a borescope to do that; based on what we are seeing, now that there is no oil going up to the intake from the rocker cover, things will be better. But no doubt, each and every one sold I really want the feedback to see how the inlet valves are doing. Loki has not had his valves cleaned and he has a lot of time on the car; nor has Wangspeed.

For packaging there appears to be variation on the K&N stuff, some tubes touch the stud on the tower, some dont,and it may be that the way its attached to the lower connector tothe tube affects that. Never mind, I will rework the bracket and move the seperator.

Also, the way we designed it, the sustem integerates into existing lines. I may offer an option to remove the hose and line from the rocker cover, tap the cover to accept an 90 degree AN6 elbow, and eliminate one connector. If I make it an option, those folks who are brave enough to thread their rocker covers can do that. (Tap supplied I found a good supply last night on eBay lol)

On BLRT's S256 conversion the seperator clears the ZZP humungous tube and air filter, (even though the smaller K&N does not, go figure) but there are changes needed as the fresh air inlet is blocked off on that conversion and the nipple on the inlet tube wont accept the check valve connector. Lucky for me, Todd is an inventor of sorts and is having a good time reworking his plumbing, but it works at the moment no problem.

To be continued...

 

John, the K+N comes with two different mount styles in the box because there are two different LNF valve covers. An early and a late. If we can go back and find the original topic discussing the K+N prototyping that a member here did with them there were pictures of both valve covers and mount styles posted within the topic.

The upshot of it is that yes, the K+N sits differently for a 2008 than it will a 2009 and 2010.

 

I'm going to hold off my order then until this K&N issue is resolved incase new parts need to be included. I have the exact same setup as vahdyx (same gen valve cover for the intake mounting locations)

 

Ugh. Oh well, I will make a new bracket, move the seperator, all will work regardless of the filter position...I hope Good to know this information, so thanks...Loki's is a 2008, and I bet Michael's is a 2010 or something like that.

thats fine. I wont ship until I have it right for everyone.

 

I'm going to hold off my order then until padlock sends me the money to buy one.

 

I has an 09 as well. I shall await until I hear as well...and for springs...etc. I'll ***** it up hardcore.

 

buy my nav so i can buy these.......

 

Hey John, the position of the K&N tube will also slightly vary depending on if they run a rotated mount. Something to consider.

 

PPL with the BNR and K&N SRIcomba also have a slightly 'off' monting of the intake as the BNR comes with a spacer that clocks it further back towards the firewall:



In any case, John stated he would be making a new bracket so that should fix most problems ppl have with the mounting site.

 

any reason to not just mount it to the engine side of the K&N heat shield? there seems like a good amount of space in that area if other options dont work. just throwing that as an idea out there. not sure of the viability of it

 

esentially with anything like that you want it as car away from heat source as possible is one thing imho.

but i think realistically where its at was the easiest place to mount it from a customer stand point. not everyone has a k and n so they wouldnt have a heatshield or anything to mount it to.

 

point taken and that makes perfect sense. i was just thinking out loud

 

yep. you probablly could move it if you really wanted to though. the heatshield isnt very strong imho but im sure it could be done

 

I made a new bracket and shipped it out to Michael this morning;the location that Padlock points out, with a little movement to the center of the car, is the location for the stock air cleaner box. The problem is, two holes have to be drilled in the radiator tie bar and the bar itself is not perfectly flat. So our concept is to make an installation that requires no drilling, or modification to the rocker cover.
\

This new bracket moves the seperator. I could have just have easily said "drill two holes" but the same logic applies, try to make it easy and not drill any holes.

The hose lengths will be different I expect so I sent Michael another hose as well so he has options and then we can setttle on the correct lengths for his job.




If you look carefully at the picture, you can see a nutsert just to the left of the bracket. If I was to install these here, (and I will) I would probably use nutserts and eliminate the bracket.But the seperator would have to have spacers for that as the inner fender is not flat in this area there is a return out for the hood seal area. Same for the rad tie bar option I would probably use nutserts but it would still need a bracket. But I bet few, if any here , have an expensive nutsert install tool etc.


I have an idea to make an 1/8 pipe option; remove the entire dirty side hose connector and braided hose out of the rocker cover, and then tap with a 1/8th tap I can provide with each kit. Then a 90 deg AN6 fitting can be used and the install gets a little cleaner. This would eliminate the efi adaptor that I provide to interface with the stock braided hose.

But if you think about it, this means tapping the hole in the cover ( it is already the right size with the nipple removed) but that means risk of alloy debris getting in the cover, if care is not taken.

and that goes back to the "KISS" concept, installation and no extra work like drilling holes etc required.

So once Michael has tried the prototype new bracket we can continue on selling these units. Well priced I think,and good value.

Thanks for the help and advice folks.

 

Looks like I misunderstood you over the phone last night. What's the best way to turn my unit around lol.

Also thank you for sending me the new bracket. I really appreciate it.