if its not a K04 its a whole different ball game. but I cant speak to a part that you do not identify. Anything is possible and we have installed the PCV on an S256 ZZP install, but it is not my intention to try and match up every different set up, in advance, most people have stock K04 turbo's.

I was fortunate that Todd with the ZZP S256 conversion was able to bring his car in, and was able to prep his turbo in advance. Aftermarket parts like that can drive the price up as the parts are, of course, different.

The K04 has a port that positions the pcv return very close to the impeller , which I have explained in this thread already, is designed that way to create a vacuum sufficient to allow the PCV to function properly.

 

Just finished with mind earlier this evening. Just one more thing I may redoing is my fitting on the turbo. It maybe ok where it is but if there's room for improvement, why not?
You have mail...

 

Ok. Thank you

 

So I got the new bracket from Powell and here's my problem



Basically it wasn't gonna fit without some extra work on my part.

So I loosened the intake tube where it connects to the turbo then I bent the K&N Intake stability brace back (don't know what it's really called) just enough to move my entire intake over. Pic below



After all was said and done, this is what it's doing to my filter.



So it's close, but not perfect!

A large part of me now wants to just get a Treadstone CAI and run the filter down by my fogs and not have to worry about "fit" of the PCV Separator. I don't know the details on making a switch like this, but if it "fits" better then it may be worth the extra expense.

Also by moving my intake over a hair I was able to keep my original filter location. thus making a retune not necessary (I think)

I reset my LTFTs and in a few days I'll see where they're at.

Here's my final assembly



My desire for this unit is the port touching the filter, I wish that it was facing (protruding) out towards the strut tower with a 90* angle towards the engine. That or if it was coming out straight towards the engine but closer to the strut tower rather than center of the unit. This way it wouldn't be an issue with filter. That's my uneducated theory.

 

try shaving the spacers down a bit for clearence. i know the side wall isnt perfectly flat but you might be able to just get enough clearence.

 

is the separator as close to the strut as it can get with that mount?

 

looks like the fitting will fit possibly from the angle of the pic..... but if the fittings clear re drill or oblong the holes to slide it back.

 

just from looking at this.. if the 90* angled piece was flipped (meaning the vertical side of it located closer to the firewall). this would allow the separator to move even closer to the strut via what omiotek said with oblonging the holes on the flat metal mounting bracket.. am i right?

 

no spacers Matt. that the bolt heads.

 

at the end of the day Vahdyk install is functional and it wont hurt the filter for now. I will get a hold of Loki's K&N LNF and redo the install so its perfect, and go from there. Loki had some scheduling issues and is away a lot, so his test car was not able to be in my hands when we needed it to perfect what is now Vahdyks set up.

If I completely move the seperator to the front of the car for all installs I eliminate that problem, but create another, as it would require drilling holes. Once a decision is made that its okay to drill holes, then the sperator could be mounted to the inner fender with two holes drilled. I am not keen on drilling any holes in any car, but at the end of the day it may come to that. How do folks feel about drilling holes?

And lastly I hate a public internet free for all on a thing like this. I prefer to perfect the install before we ship. But I was unaware of different K&N filter installs, and so far have stock, Hahn and ZZP S256 installs worked out. And now working on Area47's LS2 truck installation.

Thanks for all the help, and to Vahdyk for being so patient. A new bracket is in the works. v.3?

 

With all the movement you get out of a motor, it'll eat a hole in that filter in a hurry.

 

I'm totally fine with drilling holes if it makes install easy.

 

about every K&N I have seen touches the tower stud unless its removed, but I have not seen any holes in the filter from it. I wont debate the movement of the motor or the rubbing issue, but I will buy Vahdyk a new filter if it rubs through, especially in the time it takes for us to send him another mounting bracket.

 

good input. wont be as easy as a bracket into existing studs, but thats another option to add. should be done end of next week.

 

drilling holes isnt the problem.... its people freaking out about it not being a "simple bolt on installation" drilling a couple holes should be an issue to ANYONE.

 

I don't like the idea of drilling holes and if I stand alone on that notion that's fine. I couldn't care less. I'm against it and wouldn't do it for any product.

 

Just to make things a little more challenging, I am swapping the -6 to a -8 from the turbo to the canister and I got a 90* 1/2" JIC for it. Opening up the hole on the turbo for a 1/4 npt to -8 however it's getting very close to the intake tube but it will work. I will opening up the inside ID on all the fittings to get max flow/vacuum... Will be done by tomorrow..

 

fortunately the orifice in the rocker cover will maintain the vacuum. be aware the specifics of the system insist on a small orifice other wise the vacuum will not be maintained. I am not sure that bigger is better but you have the dash 8 lines so go for it! If you open up the orifices in the cover then the whole deal will not pull enough vacuum. pics or ban lol

 

we are in violent agreement lol. I will make it work perfectly for you, just have to make the tolerances closer for the fittings to the tower and the inner fender for the seperator itself.

 

Will do after I get it all sorted out.. I am not touching anything inside the canister nor will I replce any of the other lines. Would I generate more vacuum from a larger turbo vs stock?

 

its a question of velocity and circumference of the impeller and all sorts of things waaay beyond my competence, I will try and find out from engineering for you...

 

Thanks...
Here are the pics. Got to go under the intake for the -8 hose. Btw, the fitting/opening is much closer as compare to the stocker. Measuring from the tip of impeller to where the fitting is approximately 5/8" as compare to 1 1/4" stock.

 

excellent Todd. For Vahdyk I am thinking of moving the seperator to the front, thats the location I use for the stock air box. The trick is devising a clamping bracket so that no holes will have to be drilled on the tie bar.

I can work on that the end of the week, I am the skid pad monday and tuesday so not a lot of time to work on it .

Your install now looks pretty darn good, other than the color of fittings - I can swap out some of your black fittings for the red blue if you want. And the big thing is, it will work well thats the most important part, thanks for your diligence with your unique install.

 

If you have couple -6AN hose ends sitting around, sure. But if you have to buy them, don't worry about it. I can pick up some when I am in the US next time which is alot less. The darn -8AN 45 degree hose end cost me $34+ tax from Northern Performance. Oh well, I needed it. I have couple straights but.. BTW, let me know how much I owe you still for the actuators so I can send you a cheque.

 

i have the dash 6 "clown color" fittings here lol. I buy from Streetside Performance, best prices stateside but you cant ship to Canada the shipping is retarded. No problem we sort it out later next week I am at the track Mon/Tues...