In the effort to keep the HP flat, I have boost fading as RPMs rise. There is no way around this. When the fuel system is limited, the best thing to do is get to the max HP potential and stay there for as long as possible. The resulting torque curve will drop the at the same rate as RPMs rise. In other words, if the horsepower curve is flat, then torque is falling rapidly. This is true for all engines.

 

Nice job, I will be waiting on the lsj tear down

 

subscribed.

 

Not suprised on the rods trying to fold. I remember saying something to that effect in the low to Mid 400 range only to be criticised.(Not by Matt) The Carillo's are expensive but will support 1100 HP plus in an ecotec.
In that upper 400/500 range you need to start looking at oringing the cylinders and using a copper head gasket.
With good rods and pistons and hardblock filling half the block you can spray it into the 650 range. Above that you need to start looking at full length main cap to head studs.
The Chart in the back of the ecotec build book is the result of extensive dyno testing and teardowns on the GM race ecotec's and outlines very specifically at what HP levels things need to be changed to avoid failure.
Regards Matt.
Rock on brother.

 

What clutch are you running?? IM thinking spec stage 2+ for my car when i go with this setup

 

Thats some impressive info. Hope the word spreads.

 

I would go with at least the spec stage 3+.

 

ZZP stage 4. It didn't slip at 519 ft lbs on the chassis dyno, which should be over 550 ft lbs at the flywheel.

 

damn!! well i wouldnt want to make more than 400ft lbs and around 400whp so maybe i would have to go with stg 3 or 4. like i said earlier, very interested in this kit or setup and would like to be one of the first to get it.

 

those rods are worrying me on my current build. are they the same as the lsj?

 

iirc the lsj rods are forged but to the amount of power they can take, im not sure

 

They look similar, but LNF rods are tapered at the wrist pin. I think this is done to strengthen the piston in that area. I'm not sure if there are any strength differences between the LSJ and LNF rods.

 

Thats not necessarily true... THese rods might have bent at 425hp. I means its not like ZZP checked the rods before and after this run. so those rods could have been bent at any of the other hp bands.

 

So much for going back to stock huh....


Very nice ZZP! Hopefully you guys branching out to work with TF on a tuning solution will FINALLY light a fire under the HPT guys asses!!! They are about to miss the window BIG time!

 

I made at least 75 dyno pulls at 450+whp, and probably 50 of those were at close to or more than 500whp. I doubt they were bent at 425, but I suppose it's possible. Another thing to consider is that I was revving to 8000 RPM. Shifting at 7200 would reduce the stress on the rods somewhat.

 

So whens the lsj coming apart,

 

Torque and lots of it


Btw.. I'm very impressed in the lnf pistons making it to that power level..

 

I want this turbo kit, rofl.

 

Ryan is on vactaion, so not for at least a week or so.

 

Do it without him knowing it. It would be priceless!

(Assuming the car is in the shop?)

 

Wow very impressive stuff Matt!!!

I am so blown away by just how much abuse these motors/trannies are handling on bone stock internals. Looks like the LNF surpassed the 4G63 for the power it can hold with completely stock internals. And blew it out of the water for stock turbo power. That's incredible.

It would be really cool to see 2 packages from you guys. One that retains stock internals but uses the upgraded turbo + all related bolt ons and makes ~375-400WHP but is liveable on the street and then a more hardcore package with a more agressive tune and engine internals that makes the 450+WHP your shooting for. Just my 2 cents. But none the less really cool stuff, can't wait to see this kit out for sale.

 

WOW!! maybe i should stick with my cobalt a little longer to see what becomes available. Once this kit is finished and out, then someone needs to figure out how to get our cars to get some traction!

 

I'd either do a Spec 3+ or ZZP clutch

 

yea, ill prob get one before i get a turbo upgrade obviously, i just dont know which way i want to go yet. gt3076r from you or a ZZP tested R&D s252 streetable turbo. Damn decisions and too much free time lol. Maybe ill just get the stage kit and tune that with HPT

 

The 30R has been on my car for a year now, daily street driven. According to others, ZZP and myself, I would recommend you upgrade internals or hope you have plans to upgrade internals in the near future or you will run into problems. Just giving you the heads up. Don't want you to go thru what I and a few others have