2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

My cheap catch can install.

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Old 06-04-2010, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
I've been thinking about picking this up, but I need to figure out a way to plumb the drain back into the system. Ideally without having to get something welded in.

http://www.mann-hummel.com/group/upl...BCHACUaaBi.pdf

This is the same air oil separator that Lingenfelter uses.
does anyone know who's sells it?

Last edited by redstarpa69; 06-04-2010 at 10:42 PM.
Old 06-05-2010, 12:14 AM
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why didnt u just buy one off ebay, they are nicer and they cost the same
Old 06-05-2010, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by redstarpa69
does anyone know who's sells it?
Lingenfelter sells it, though there may be some markup. It's a Mann Hummel Provent. Not sure which size. 200 maybe? If you search around, you'll see other car folks using these too.
Old 06-05-2010, 09:32 AM
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yeah just found one for 235....way to much for a catch can, althought that it a very nicely designed can
Old 06-05-2010, 11:12 PM
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talking about catch can, what happen to modern performance catch can? its been like 4 months. sorry for thread jack.
Old 06-06-2010, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Gimpster
I helped a guy not too long ago who also couldnt get his off, no matter what we tried.

Ended up using a rotary wheel on the dremel and split it down the middle. Came off then
yeah i was thinking about doing that but i dont wanna ruin it... ill just go to gm and see what they say.. but it does look like its meant never to come off.. i bought a set of quick dissconnects yesterday and tested the proper one on the connect that comes from the back of the valve cover that goes to the pcv and it still wouldnt dissconnect.. i hear the click but it wont come off.. its f'ed
Old 06-07-2010, 01:24 PM
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in the sake of not making another post ill keep going on this but today went to the gm place i bought the car and they didnt even have the tool you need to take that off... they said they know you need one and know what it is but they do not have it yet.. so i came home got fed up and forced it off the valve cover part just to see what the hell you need to disengage the prongs on the clip.. theres 4 arms that make a spring type of deal that latch on to a collar... that being said altough i forced it off the top fitting the one on the turbo would be hard to pull off with out bending that plate that its attached to so i just straitened out the spring and installed it again.. and i guess ill have to wait till gm gets the part.. i cant belive it wook me 20mins to make the can and its took me 4 days to get one side of that vent off.. so if anyone has devised a tool to take it off id love to see pics of what you done.. id be quite interesting! thaniks..
Old 06-07-2010, 10:51 PM
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I'm making a new catch can setup for my new Sedan, and I think I'll be using these on the VC and turbo fitting:

http://www.holley.com/165006ERL.asp

Should work nicely, and I'll post pictures/updates when I'm done.
Old 06-08-2010, 10:21 AM
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The easiest way I found to get the line of the Turbo side was to pull the silver plate off the Turbo the a bolt off to the right take That off use skittles force cause the prong that seals it is in there good then then line is easy to disconnect to put it back in just put alittle oil on the oring and it slides right back in and put the bolt back good to go
Old 06-08-2010, 11:12 AM
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what i want to know is how is the oil residue building up on the CAI elbow connecting to the turbo? theres a check valve in the line connecting to the CAI how is the oil getting inthere? i have the same issue and plan on doing a can very soon
Old 06-08-2010, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fredds-turbaltSS
what i want to know is how is the oil residue building up on the CAI elbow connecting to the turbo? theres a check valve in the line connecting to the CAI how is the oil getting inthere? i have the same issue and plan on doing a can very soon
It is the line that goes from the valvecover to the inlet side of the turbo that is the source of the oil. Mine has hardly any residue at all. Maybe 1 little tiny drop right at the turbo inlet. I just had my CPs and IC completely off and there was no buildup at all inside the IC or CPs. They were as clean and dry as can be.
Old 06-08-2010, 12:16 PM
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When I had mine off two weeks ago, still bone dry.

The only time mine had oil in it was from the initial break in on the stock intake. None since.

Probably from ring blowby until they seated well. I use no oil in 5k miles that I can measure and I'm at 39k miles now.

Mines a slow'balt, but it's holding up fine so far...knocks on wood.
Old 06-08-2010, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fakameanrepresent
talking about catch can, what happen to modern performance catch can? its been like 4 months. sorry for thread jack.
We had problems with the fittings, just like everyone else in this thread.

Its difficult/impossible to make an easy to install, direct replacement catch can for this car. Im continuing to look into it, but its been aggravating at how GM designed the valve cover, making it hard to design a catch can for the Cobalt.
Old 06-08-2010, 12:57 PM
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So far my sedan is dry, but my last coupe was a major blowby *****. That intake inlet when I removed it the first time dripped oil all over the engine bay as I lifted it out.

Every car is a different story. Guess that motor was built on a Friday
Old 06-08-2010, 01:11 PM
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My old 2.2L coupe leaked oil like a civ out of the valve cover, no problems with this car yet.
Old 06-08-2010, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Modernceo
We had problems with the fittings, just like everyone else in this thread.

Its difficult/impossible to make an easy to install, direct replacement catch can for this car. Im continuing to look into it, but its been aggravating at how GM designed the valve cover, making it hard to design a catch can for the Cobalt.
i believe these would work for the fittings( http://www.holley.com/165006ERL.asp ) with new lines obviously, however you would need to design a tool to go with the can for an easy swap LOL bc most ppl will end up just cutting the lines off.
Old 06-08-2010, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by anthonyb
The easiest way I found to get the line of the Turbo side was to pull the silver plate off the Turbo the a bolt off to the right take That off use skittles force cause the prong that seals it is in there good then then line is easy to disconnect to put it back in just put alittle oil on the oring and it slides right back in and put the bolt back good to go
tried to get plate off but i didnt have my ratchet wrenches with me.. god it takes a long time for the engine and turbo to cool down enough to work on.. but will do that thanks.. still dont see how you can get those fittings off with out ruining the spring inside.. i guess i wont have to worry about that line anymore after i replace it..
Old 06-08-2010, 04:05 PM
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In the original post I literally fought for 3-4 hours to save that line, and honestly I wouldn't / won't do it again.
Old 06-08-2010, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ss2.4lvvt
tried to get plate off but i didnt have my ratchet wrenches with me.. god it takes a long time for the engine and turbo to cool down enough to work on.. but will do that thanks.. still dont see how you can get those fittings off with out ruining the spring inside.. i guess i wont have to worry about that line anymore after i replace it..
The fitting on the valvecover or the turbo?
Old 06-08-2010, 05:14 PM
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And to add to my last post I used a 10 mm socket I believe on a swivel with two 6 inch extensions and came from on top of the motor
Old 06-09-2010, 08:17 AM
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terminator2- im talking about i ruined the spring inside the fitting that attaches to the valve cover... and i was scared of ruining the pipe that attaches to the plate that attaches to the turbo if i pulled too hard on that fitting.. it was very tempting though for how pissed i was after frigging with that same line for 4 days... but then controlled myself and shut the hood for a hour to cool down..

thanks for the info about the swivel.. that would make it alot eaisier! its pretty tight in there.. especially to swing a wrench in there..
Old 06-09-2010, 08:28 PM
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wooo hoo! i finally got that sleezy bastard of a vent line off there and got catch can hooked up.. ill post some pics!, used a black aluminum drink bottle, couple 3/8 hose fittings... i never seen any oil in the line when i took it off, im at 13,000kms...
pics....


i know before someone says im putting hose clamps on the tubes just couldnt find them when took the pic..
Old 06-09-2010, 09:42 PM
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What have you done to baffle your home-brew can? Otherwise you won't catch a whole lot, especially with synthetic oil in the car.
Old 06-09-2010, 10:22 PM
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ummm nothin as of yet lol.. i figured that id try it like this.. and also figured that where the fittings are 90 degress from each other it wouldnt be easy for the oil to pass thru to the output... from what i seen of other catch cans i didnt see too much for baffles in them anyway.. but im far from an expert on them..

what does synthetic oil got to do with not catching as much.. does it like to evaporate in the air better or something?
Old 06-09-2010, 11:25 PM
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A good can is baffled. Otherwise not nearly as much will condensate in there... ie oil, water and fuel vapors. You're not going to be pulling solid stuff for the most part, its in vapor form. Most of those cans you see on ebay are trash, but some are good starting points. Synthetic oil is particularly difficult to make stick in the can. I mean really whats some empty chamber with an input/output right next to each other going to do? Make your input go down to the bottom of your can (extend with a hose) and then devise some sort of baffling. I would NOT use steel wool though. I know people that have done that and started to eat steel wool.

I actually use the same style air compressor water collector I showed in post 1 on my Buell Lightning motorcycle, and you would be shocked how much oil comes out of the breaters. Actually maybe you wouldnt since its a Harley motor, but you get the point


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