So I've had this code come up after I got the turbo replaced with a better used one. After it was installed I had more power. "yay" but now I get a tiny bit less and now I had this pop up ONLY ONCE and I get tiny misfires and backfiring that will actually shake the car if I let off the gas or it's around -20 vac.

So whatever this guy touched it caused this to happen, Tried cleaning the MAF sensor, nothing. Looked at map sensors, oily normal but not covered. I think my Map sensors are spliced in and not connected though. My tuner suggested new sensors and connected. Plug in ones, not spliced ones, "Will have to see how that will work" and I also want to clean my intake manifold on the inside and install a catch can.


Any ideas? My brother just bought a new DENSO MAF for his car so I could barrow his if needed. I will also be seeing my tuner this weekend for a tweak and diag.


I did do a boost leak test after the turbo on the upper IC pipe and the boost does drop slowly but no hissing anywhere. Don't try it directly on the turbo, after when you turn the car on, there is a wall of smoke and you just killed a couple of trees.

 

Part out

 

if you are spliced in I don't think you can get the plug in ones, u have already cut the original harness you solder in a different one. I broke the clip off my original on the bottom. now I gotta electrical tape it together lol.

 

Well, I put new 3 bar sensors in top and bottom and I noticed the bottom one when I tapped it, sounded like something was moving inside of it. I tap on the top one and it sounds like plastic. I tap the bottom one and it sounds like something is loose inside. Also intake valves look good too for only 10-15k miles

 

1. check the maf in a computer or just replace it with your brothers clear the code see if it comes back. If it comes back check your pins and maf wiring. I had to put a new plug on my car awhile back and nothing appeared wrong with the wiring or anything.

2. check for boost and vaccum leaks.

3. check that you have a GOOD lower sensor and that your wiring is correct and soldered right.

if that all is fine.

4. you need to have a technician get into your ecu with a computer and actually watch freeze frame data and everything else and locate the actual problem.

i had a car recently that p0101 would not go away. the guy put in a new plug himself and the car had NO boost leaks, vaccum leaks, misfires or anything of the sort but the code would come back as soon as the readiness monitors would reset. well upon further inspection with a computer i would watch the maf go from working to not working at all with a brand new sensor. the second the readiness codes would turn ready the computer data would go away and come back on and off. well doing more digging into the ecu and more trouble shooting the maf prom ended up being tried in the ecu. new ecu, coding and tuning and the code never came back.