P0501 & P0236 Intake vacume line
10-06-2013 | 12:51 PM
#1
P0501 & P0236 Intake vacume line
First off i have GMS1/Upper charge/3" Catted DP
So first of all. The line coming off my stock intake pipe (just after the airbox and sensor) broke off for the fourth time. Naturally i started getting a slightly erratic idle and my fuel trims got a bit goofy screwing with my AFR. It would jump lean and ritch on occasion but mostly my engine just felt down on power.. He dealership replaced the pipe on warrenty for the fourth time. It was discovered at that time that my ZZP upper charge pipe was putting pressure on the Braded line going to the intake pipe due to it sitting about 2" closer to the Valve cover. This is causing the pathetic cheap plastic intake nozzle to break. They covered it under warrenty but basically said if it happens again they are not responsible. Fair enough..... The service advisor then took me aside and gave me a fuel line fitting (same size an shape as the nozzle on the intake) and told me i should get about 8" of rubber vaccume line hoze run it off the plastic nozzle and pres it onto the metal fuel line fitting to take some of the pressure off the intake nozzel. seems like a good idea.
1)Anyone See any reason it would be a bad Idea to run a rubber vaccume line from intake to the braded line on the valve cover. I just assume its Braded for a reason.... I just dont think its under much vaccume or boost pressure but im asking as this is not my tecnical expertese.
I havent done the above yet.
Car runs great for two days and then Yesterday i was driving home and was clearly down on power and then 2 minutes later My AFR starts going nuts again and my fuel trims were -10 to -28. It Never threw a CEL but there was a code logged
P0236. I have had this before a few times. First time they replaced lower sensor and it was good for the entire winter. Then in the spring it happened again. they said it was because my map sensor on the intake was loose ( i called BS and told them it would start again) and two hours later it did.
They then determined that there was a broken wire in the Intkake sensor. This fixed the issue all summer. Until yesterday. It is back again. I let the car idle in my parking spot for about 5 minutes while i checked all the sensors and tried to see if there was any noticable vaccume leaks. which im not sure is even the issue. it idled rough and was running about -14 fuel trim the entire time. I gave up.
This morning i went to leave for work. the car would turn over but would not stay running. it was iddling 200 to 2000RPM erraticyl for about two seconds. I tried giving it gas to no avail.
After about 6 tries it finally started. Ran super rough for about 2 minutes and the iddled down and ran semi normal all the way to work where i am now.
And no the code P0501 is logged. I looked up this code but have no idea what it means..
Could really use some pro help on this one..
So first of all. The line coming off my stock intake pipe (just after the airbox and sensor) broke off for the fourth time. Naturally i started getting a slightly erratic idle and my fuel trims got a bit goofy screwing with my AFR. It would jump lean and ritch on occasion but mostly my engine just felt down on power.. He dealership replaced the pipe on warrenty for the fourth time. It was discovered at that time that my ZZP upper charge pipe was putting pressure on the Braded line going to the intake pipe due to it sitting about 2" closer to the Valve cover. This is causing the pathetic cheap plastic intake nozzle to break. They covered it under warrenty but basically said if it happens again they are not responsible. Fair enough..... The service advisor then took me aside and gave me a fuel line fitting (same size an shape as the nozzle on the intake) and told me i should get about 8" of rubber vaccume line hoze run it off the plastic nozzle and pres it onto the metal fuel line fitting to take some of the pressure off the intake nozzel. seems like a good idea.
1)Anyone See any reason it would be a bad Idea to run a rubber vaccume line from intake to the braded line on the valve cover. I just assume its Braded for a reason.... I just dont think its under much vaccume or boost pressure but im asking as this is not my tecnical expertese.
I havent done the above yet.
Car runs great for two days and then Yesterday i was driving home and was clearly down on power and then 2 minutes later My AFR starts going nuts again and my fuel trims were -10 to -28. It Never threw a CEL but there was a code logged
P0236. I have had this before a few times. First time they replaced lower sensor and it was good for the entire winter. Then in the spring it happened again. they said it was because my map sensor on the intake was loose ( i called BS and told them it would start again) and two hours later it did.
They then determined that there was a broken wire in the Intkake sensor. This fixed the issue all summer. Until yesterday. It is back again. I let the car idle in my parking spot for about 5 minutes while i checked all the sensors and tried to see if there was any noticable vaccume leaks. which im not sure is even the issue. it idled rough and was running about -14 fuel trim the entire time. I gave up.
This morning i went to leave for work. the car would turn over but would not stay running. it was iddling 200 to 2000RPM erraticyl for about two seconds. I tried giving it gas to no avail.
After about 6 tries it finally started. Ran super rough for about 2 minutes and the iddled down and ran semi normal all the way to work where i am now.
And no the code P0501 is logged. I looked up this code but have no idea what it means..
Could really use some pro help on this one..
10-07-2013 | 11:55 AM
#3
It is now running with very weak power. Then it will be fine the next time I drive it. Then the fuel trims and afr will be so bad I can barely accelerate. Not throwing any codes right now though..
10-10-2013 | 12:12 PM
#4
No responses... Anyone....
Update. It's been several days I have not thrown a check engine light and no codes have shown up.... But my car definitely feels like low end torque is significantly reduced. Definitely feels down on power. Watching the afr and fuel trims I have noticed the trims seem to take longer to 0 out When accelerating or decelerating. And I feel like the afr is a little on the lean side... 14.7-15.5 while cruising and lightly acceraring and then 13.9-14.5 a little more aggressively accelerating (@ like 5-9 psi)
I just don't know what the issue could be and why no codes are throwing if something is off.
Any ideas?
Update. It's been several days I have not thrown a check engine light and no codes have shown up.... But my car definitely feels like low end torque is significantly reduced. Definitely feels down on power. Watching the afr and fuel trims I have noticed the trims seem to take longer to 0 out When accelerating or decelerating. And I feel like the afr is a little on the lean side... 14.7-15.5 while cruising and lightly acceraring and then 13.9-14.5 a little more aggressively accelerating (@ like 5-9 psi)
I just don't know what the issue could be and why no codes are throwing if something is off.
Any ideas?
10-10-2013 | 08:53 PM
#6
Regarding your intake- the fuel line fitting/hose on breather line sounds like it might reduce stress on the connector somewhat; some people have JB welded a fuel line fitting directly to the intake when theirs breaks. It's been my experience that these break when they're not disconnected prior to opening the air box; in any case they're quite fragile.
Assuming your intake is fine I'd zero in on the TMAP (lower) sensor; lube or replace o-ring and maybe a dab of silicone on screw. Also tie your wiring away from A/C line. The 0501 is related to vehicle speed(?); I believe the other is a MAP code. g/l
Assuming your intake is fine I'd zero in on the TMAP (lower) sensor; lube or replace o-ring and maybe a dab of silicone on screw. Also tie your wiring away from A/C line. The 0501 is related to vehicle speed(?); I believe the other is a MAP code. g/l
10-10-2013 | 08:55 PM
#7
New Member
Joined: 10-10-13
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh
This exact line has broken for me several times as well. It's never caused me to throw a CEL, and I haven't seen any loss of power, but I'm just now starting to add bolt-ons. I was also looking for a solution to this problem.
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