Pvc valve in mani
#1
Pvc valve in mani
Does anyone know what the part number is for the pvc valve in the manifold? And where I can buy it? Read a post from another guy that's been throwing same codes like mine p0106 and having oil on map sensors.
#2
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redman2357 (03-12-2016)
#3
only one map sensor would be effected by that valve. and u can change it all u want, it still lets oil past and into the intake manifold. Look into powell oil separator 3.0, takes care of all of that. does the crank vent hoses, and the pcv valve in the manifold. You get a new intake manifold with it that is all prepared. that the only way ull stop the oil in manifold issue
#4
only one map sensor would be effected by that valve. and u can change it all u want, it still lets oil past and into the intake manifold. Look into powell oil separator 3.0, takes care of all of that. does the crank vent hoses, and the pcv valve in the manifold. You get a new intake manifold with it that is all prepared. that the only way ull stop the oil in manifold issue
#5
coming from someone who has had this car since 08 and delt with this for a long time before I finally got a seperator, and many others who delt with it, good luck keeping oil out of ur intake track. When ur ready to listen to people with more experience with these cars, let us know.
#6
Been trying to listen to you guys. Have had this problem for a while now changing cleaning map sensors, dealing with the cel codes, limp mode.etc... no one knew what the problem was. Until the guy above mentioned the pcv system check valve. Hopefully this will finally solvery the issues with this car. Have been disappointed with it for a while now
#7
only one map sensor would be effected by that valve. and u can change it all u want, it still lets oil past and into the intake manifold. Look into powell oil separator 3.0, takes care of all of that. does the crank vent hoses, and the pcv valve in the manifold. You get a new intake manifold with it that is all prepared. that the only way ull stop the oil in manifold issue
Anyone else bought the new version yet?
#8
#9
Lost my post. not sure why. don't have time to re write it fully/ CLIFFS
v.1 and v.2 bifurcate the rocker cover vent. Oil is filtered and gasses seperated in the separator and returned to the engine. v.2 included a check valve in the drain back line. These motors have a lot of crank case blow by
If the valves are coked they need cleaning. Check the LNF valve gunk thread on here, its a good thread
v.3 deals with the PCV valve It can stick open. Carbon debris can do that. Its not usual. But off boost and in vacuum that valve is open and oil travels into the inlet, either minimally in a good motor with OEM configuration , OR lots if tuned and running a filter on a stick, and bad rings etc.
If you run a phenolic spacer that mimics the IM gasket then the boost pressure spits the valve out into the space provided by the phenolic spacer and the valve wont work as gasses blow by the valve as it is no longer seated in the manifold, the o ring is not sealing and so lots of pressure into the crank case under boost. This makes a mess of cars I have seen with this issue and they don't run well.
v.3 blocks access for the crankcase blowby on the inlet side and sends it to the separator where it is twice filtered and gasses returned to the motor via the inlet port before the compressor wheel.
filtered oil is returned to the engine via the drain back line.
v.1 and v.2 bifurcate the rocker cover vent. Oil is filtered and gasses seperated in the separator and returned to the engine. v.2 included a check valve in the drain back line. These motors have a lot of crank case blow by
If the valves are coked they need cleaning. Check the LNF valve gunk thread on here, its a good thread
v.3 deals with the PCV valve It can stick open. Carbon debris can do that. Its not usual. But off boost and in vacuum that valve is open and oil travels into the inlet, either minimally in a good motor with OEM configuration , OR lots if tuned and running a filter on a stick, and bad rings etc.
If you run a phenolic spacer that mimics the IM gasket then the boost pressure spits the valve out into the space provided by the phenolic spacer and the valve wont work as gasses blow by the valve as it is no longer seated in the manifold, the o ring is not sealing and so lots of pressure into the crank case under boost. This makes a mess of cars I have seen with this issue and they don't run well.
v.3 blocks access for the crankcase blowby on the inlet side and sends it to the separator where it is twice filtered and gasses returned to the motor via the inlet port before the compressor wheel.
filtered oil is returned to the engine via the drain back line.
The following users liked this post:
Snail_SS (03-14-2016)
#12
not really. it keeps it cleaner, but doesn't help keep the valves clean. unless u spray under vacuum as well. iv had meth on for a while and it doesn't keep the gunk off the valves. it keeps combustion chamber very clean though
#13
Lost my post. not sure why. don't have time to re write it fully/ CLIFFS
v.1 and v.2 bifurcate the rocker cover vent. Oil is filtered and gasses seperated in the separator and returned to the engine. v.2 included a check valve in the drain back line. These motors have a lot of crank case blow by
If the valves are coked they need cleaning. Check the LNF valve gunk thread on here, its a good thread
v.3 deals with the PCV valve It can stick open. Carbon debris can do that. Its not usual. But off boost and in vacuum that valve is open and oil travels into the inlet, either minimally in a good motor with OEM configuration , OR lots if tuned and running a filter on a stick, and bad rings etc.
If you run a phenolic spacer that mimics the IM gasket then the boost pressure spits the valve out into the space provided by the phenolic spacer and the valve wont work as gasses blow by the valve as it is no longer seated in the manifold, the o ring is not sealing and so lots of pressure into the crank case under boost. This makes a mess of cars I have seen with this issue and they don't run well.
v.3 blocks access for the crankcase blowby on the inlet side and sends it to the separator where it is twice filtered and gasses returned to the motor via the inlet port before the compressor wheel.
filtered oil is returned to the engine via the drain back line.
v.1 and v.2 bifurcate the rocker cover vent. Oil is filtered and gasses seperated in the separator and returned to the engine. v.2 included a check valve in the drain back line. These motors have a lot of crank case blow by
If the valves are coked they need cleaning. Check the LNF valve gunk thread on here, its a good thread
v.3 deals with the PCV valve It can stick open. Carbon debris can do that. Its not usual. But off boost and in vacuum that valve is open and oil travels into the inlet, either minimally in a good motor with OEM configuration , OR lots if tuned and running a filter on a stick, and bad rings etc.
If you run a phenolic spacer that mimics the IM gasket then the boost pressure spits the valve out into the space provided by the phenolic spacer and the valve wont work as gasses blow by the valve as it is no longer seated in the manifold, the o ring is not sealing and so lots of pressure into the crank case under boost. This makes a mess of cars I have seen with this issue and they don't run well.
v.3 blocks access for the crankcase blowby on the inlet side and sends it to the separator where it is twice filtered and gasses returned to the motor via the inlet port before the compressor wheel.
filtered oil is returned to the engine via the drain back line.
What type of cleaners can I use to clean the valves as I don't have the stuff to do the walnut blasting.
#14
I don't remember what chemicals the guys use, but if I was u id just get the walnut blast stuff, either way ur gonna have to buy something. Just buy a blaster from hardware store, which is cheap, probably like 20-30 bucks make sure its gravity flow. And a bag of walnut blast which u can get where ever u find blasting stuff. I got a 50 pound bag for 20 bucks. that's all they had at my place. and id get a roll of plastic for covering everything. then u have everything just in case u don't get the separator right away and have to do it again later. id also take all piping and intercooler off and clean then.
#15
I always use GM upper engine cleaner and let it soak.
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