ok I just went under my car to check for some stuff and I noticed the radiator was loose. could push it up like 2 inches. its resting on the subframe. the drivers side rubber and mounting point is broken off. is the mounting points on the fan assembly? is that what id need to buy to fix this?

 

If the plastic "pin" on the bottom is broken off you most likely are loosing coolant. There is no repair, you need a new radiator. I got the Mishimoto after I broke two stock radiators inside a 6-week period. The Mishimoto has aluminum end tanks and pins.

 

yup its that pin on both sides. but im not loosing coolent it just broke off the pin, nothing else the part where the pin gets thicker is still there thank God. its just sitting on the bottom and probably what the knocking noise is im hearing. so where do u get that rad from? and how do u take old rad out?

 

just got one at modern performance. now need how to on removing it

 

I replaced mine both times without removing the front bumper, just because that is such a PITA.
You basically just remove the bow tie and then the grille (all visible clips on top plus two plastic clips on the inside)
Then you unbolt the AC condenser (that sits in front) from the radiator, two bolts on either side that are kinda hard to get to
Then in your case you should probably drain the radiator with the drain plug so you dont get coolant all over everything.
Then undo the clamps on the two hoses. The one on the driver's side can be hard to get to. If all else fails, you can undo the other end of the hose instead.
Now you should remove the fan shroud from the radiator. It is hooked in by 4 hooks on the front. May need some (gentle) force.
Then (and this is the tricky part) there is just enough room to lift the radiator out by pushing the fan shroud back.
I recommend supporting the AC condenser on the driver's side (where it has no support. I tied it up with a piece of wire; this is to prevent too much strain on the connections on the other side.
Once the new radiator is in, do everything in reverse order.
Fill with new coolant, run engine, top off, drive a few blocks, top off again.

 

thanks. I was hoping I didn't have to remove bumper. if id have known rad had plastic tanks id have changed that long time ago. f-ing cheap car maker crap

 

Also, you'll need to take the clips off your stock radiator where the AC condenser bolts to. The Mishimoto doesn't come with those clips.

 

does it come with the rubber mounts for the bottom, cause the one is missing

 

cant say ive ever run into a car that doesnt have plastic rad end tanks.

 

sports car?

 

Nope. I was missing one as well, however it was one of the top ones. Had to buy en entire bracket since they don't sell the rubber insert separately.

 

Just bought the rubber mount at dealership,,,was $18

 

those bastards.

 

gonna do this this weekend, taking bumper off and intercooler, piping and cleaning out all oil from before pvc upgrade

 

average consumer car...

 

mine had a broken peg too. Didnt leak radiator fluid. I was the prototype tester for the mishimoto so I didnt even notice till it was out. A member on here bought it and glued a peg from his cracked radiator to it and everything was good.

 

Y take it apart to glue it. Lot if work for a fix that may not last. One of my pegs and rubber is gone so couldn't glue if I wanted to

 

If consider this low end performance car, guess if they made everything right there would be no fun in modding lol

 

The mounts on top that these bounce aorund in are so loose no wonder they break

 

Just finished taking everything apart and installing the rad. Filler rad with coolent and tomorrow I clean intercooler and pipes. Was pretty easy, used a camera to look inside the intercooler, did have some oil pooling a bit in one corner, very little. Let's see how clean the PVC upgrade keeps it. And I think I will go online and get a zzp pure intercooler pipe, Hahn one is rusting to ****, thank god not inside or through yet. Gonna be a fun weekend with the mistress lol

 

The all aluminum rad is definitely better. I checked to see how much play it had, and it does have less that stock it would seem. But that could be cause my busted one moved around a lot. Definitely a good upgrade. No more plastic ****, I think I got it all woo

 

well all done. only issue I have now is I lost 2 psi boost. so boost leak somewhere. I tried fixing it, but apparently I created another one. instead of 22 psi I boost 20, so that's ok till zzp gets their upper ic pipes without bov flange back in and ill replace the Hahn ****, which is rusting pretty good under the car close to intercooler. I didn't really have to top it up much after to 8 mile drives. seems to stay cooler than before. usually when my engine temp is at 98 degrees my temp rad temp gauge reads 180ish, didn't even go past 140 now. so im happy.

 

funny thing, replaced all the rusted trim screws from in the fender well and under the car that screw the trim to the bumper, used antiseize this time so I can get em out better next time I have to take it off, but ya, went to dealer to get some, they didn't have em in but quoted 12 bucks a piece, what the hell. then a different parts guy over heard and asked how many I want, I told him and he gave me them for free. lol some of them know their prices as bs as well it seems. nice to see there are some nice guys at dealers.

 

checked today and I am boosting 22 psi, just not spiking to 25 first anymore. yay. guess I fixed that

 

Looks like I may do this mod next when it's a little warmer.