2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Rebuild f35 or swap it with another? 4.45 gears

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Old 10-19-2014 | 05:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
no f35 is going to take the heat for a longtime the but lower final drive helps
I'll be shopping around for the 4.05 if I can't find 4.45s within reasonable price.
Old 10-19-2014 | 04:07 PM
  #27  
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Wert ever get a verdict?

Are you on stock mounts are rotated, what about control arms?
Old 10-19-2014 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
Wert ever get a verdict?

Are you on stock mounts are rotated, what about control arms?
John just said the second gear locking ring was destroyed. Stock suspension other than cm lowering springs. It has worked fine for me so far and has done good, somewhat.

Last edited by Wert842; 10-19-2014 at 08:36 PM.
Old 10-19-2014 | 08:25 PM
  #29  
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OP unless you are running the high boost canister I would not worry to much about your stock trans it could live a long time.
Old 10-19-2014 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Terminator2
OP unless you are running the high boost canister I would not worry to much about your stock trans it could live a long time.
Whaaaaat? You crazy. Mine only lasted like 3-4k with zfr installed and you behind the madness!
Old 10-20-2014 | 03:24 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Terminator2
OP unless you are running the high boost canister I would not worry to much about your stock trans it could live a long time.
this is coming from a tuner. Very familiar with our cars too. By high boost canister you mean an obnoxious amount of boost? I only plan on going 25-26psi max and with a nice boost ramp to get me there. So it won't come in full force. Plus I'm not an idiot that nls, downshifts at high rpms, and floors it at 2k xD
Old 10-20-2014 | 10:07 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Waka Flocka Fluff
this is coming from a tuner. Very familiar with our cars too. By high boost canister you mean an obnoxious amount of boost? I only plan on going 25-26psi max and with a nice boost ramp to get me there. So it won't come in full force. Plus I'm not an idiot that nls, downshifts at high rpms, and floors it at 2k xD
Yes the high boost canister normally means running 29psi unless you really turn the wg duty cycle down into the 40 to 50% range. You should be fine. Might need to eventually replace your stock clutch but with a boost ramp and 25 psi I would not worry too much.
Old 10-20-2014 | 10:17 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Wert842
Whaaaaat? You crazy. Mine only lasted like 3-4k with zfr installed and you behind the madness!
Yes but yours is damn near 450whp on 93 and 28-29psi. Sounds like the OP is going to be making quite a bit less boost and less HP and torque so I think he will be ok for quite a while especially if he is not a mad man behind the wheel.
Old 10-20-2014 | 01:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Terminator2
Yes but yours is damn near 450whp on 93 and 28-29psi. Sounds like the OP is going to be making quite a bit less boost and less HP and torque so I think he will be ok for quite a while especially if he is not a mad man behind the wheel.
thanks man I appreciate the good info! I'll hold out on replacing the clutch until it starts slipping. I figured I'd leave the funds set aside if worst case happens. In the mean time I'll just leave my stock tranny and clutch in. I appreciate the info! Thanks again!
Old 10-20-2014 | 02:27 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Waka Flocka Fluff
thanks man I appreciate the good info! I'll hold out on replacing the clutch until it starts slipping. I figured I'd leave the funds set aside if worst case happens. In the mean time I'll just leave my stock tranny and clutch in. I appreciate the info! Thanks again!
The clutch slipping a little will save the trans as well as it will take some of the load off of it.
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Old 10-20-2014 | 06:44 PM
  #36  
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But a slipping clutch doesn't allow the fun to happen.
Old 10-20-2014 | 07:32 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Waka Flocka Fluff
will it be able to hold up to the zfr? Or is it just better than my current trans at doing it?
Mine did, and still does.
Old 10-20-2014 | 08:18 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Waka Flocka Fluff
Emailed them a week ago with no response.
for you and sam as far as I know you have both been replied to. Recent family emergencies had slowed down about everything except for must ship items the past few weeks. Sam has the results and photos. As far as I know you were replied to in detail by me WFF. Dont hesitate to speak up or email me if I have missed anything for you.
Old 10-20-2014 | 08:31 PM
  #39  
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It is on topic to say it here I suppose, but with no particular person or transmission in mind, consider this for transmission longevity:

Standard Cobalt manual trans engine mounts along with tire pressure and tire construction, and violent side stepped clutch launches can lead to power hop; worn suspension makes it worse. Rotated mounts help cancel power hop.

Powerhop will break an F35 faster than you can say....F35.

Mismatched shifting is something else that can also break a transmission,..

Many folks think that if the wheels are spinning you dont have power hop, They are partially correct, but at onset of the spin or as you trail off the gas to unspin , power hop can briefly occur. In the rain, power hop is brutal. Its up to the driver in this instance to be sensible.

It is also clear to me ( I drive Delta a lot , and own one) that folks dont always get the clutch all the way in to shift. I find myself doing that, and as the clutch pedal rod and ball socket wears, and the firewall master cylinder bracket breaks ( on 04-07 delta) the resulting "clutch not disengaging fully" is an issue.

And there is not rev matching on the down shift. Fully 90% of the folks on here do not appear to have a clue about this technique or understand its importance.

So I am saying that impacts to the transmission, caused by not rev matching on the down shift are not at all good.

This is because of the resultant torque multiplication, due to forcing the second gear synchro into having to match engine speed to vehicle speed ( 3200 lb car) etc. It is all too much for the trans to handle and you can exceed trans torque capacity in a way most of you have probably not considered.

It is also possible for "reverse" power hop to occur on a mismatched down shift. NASCAR race cars, and Gen 3 Camaro , (two examples), get rear axle hop on mismatched downshifts. Oftentimes the trans on the NASCAR cars or the diff lets go. On the Camaro the trans, the C beam and the diff would break , take your pick. Cadillac CTS V 04-07 also the same thing.

So the talk on here by the folks who know about `driver mod`? Right on
Old 10-21-2014 | 12:51 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
It is on topic to say it here I suppose, but with no particular person or transmission in mind, consider this for transmission longevity: Standard Cobalt manual trans engine mounts along with tire pressure and tire construction, and violent side stepped clutch launches can lead to power hop; worn suspension makes it worse. Rotated mounts help cancel power hop. Powerhop will break an F35 faster than you can say....F35. Mismatched shifting is something else that can also break a transmission,.. Many folks think that if the wheels are spinning you dont have power hop, They are partially correct, but at onset of the spin or as you trail off the gas to unspin , power hop can briefly occur. In the rain, power hop is brutal. Its up to the driver in this instance to be sensible. It is also clear to me ( I drive Delta a lot , and own one) that folks dont always get the clutch all the way in to shift. I find myself doing that, and as the clutch pedal rod and ball socket wears, and the firewall master cylinder bracket breaks ( on 04-07 delta) the resulting "clutch not disengaging fully" is an issue. And there is not rev matching on the down shift. Fully 90% of the folks on here do not appear to have a clue about this technique or understand its importance. So I am saying that impacts to the transmission, caused by not rev matching on the down shift are not at all good. This is because of the resultant torque multiplication, due to forcing the second gear synchro into having to match engine speed to vehicle speed ( 3200 lb car) etc. It is all too much for the trans to handle and you can exceed trans torque capacity in a way most of you have probably not considered. It is also possible for "reverse" power hop to occur on a mismatched down shift. NASCAR race cars, and Gen 3 Camaro , (two examples), get rear axle hop on mismatched downshifts. Oftentimes the trans on the NASCAR cars or the diff lets go. On the Camaro the trans, the C beam and the diff would break , take your pick. Cadillac CTS V 04-07 also the same thing. So the talk on here by the folks who know about `driver mod`? Right on
I have a solid motor mount and was looking at zzp tranny mounts, but not sure if I want to go with those because I heard they weren't true rotated mounts? I would consider myself a sensible driver. I do engage the clutch fully, even when racing to ensure a full shift. I used to do burnouts, but mainly because my general g maxes had 0 tread and could spin with the slightest push of pedal. However I will have new wheels and tires when I get back and plan on making them last. The only thing I like doing is roll racing. 40/60 rolls and love the look on peoples faces when a cobalt smokes the hell out of their prized 5.0 or srt. Hell I kept up with the new c7 quite well on the stock turbo from a roll, he won tho basically from what I read everyone is saying it all depends on how you drive if it'll last. If I know everytime I start my car there's a chance my transmission explodes if I drive like a heel I won't do it. I will baby the hell out of it. I'll check my email though and see if anything came up! If not I'll get back to you!
Old 10-21-2014 | 01:06 AM
  #41  
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Yep ZZP aren't truly rotated, just stiffer in the stock position. Just buy them from John you won't regret it.
Old 10-21-2014 | 01:48 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
Yep ZZP aren't truly rotated, just stiffer in the stock position. Just buy them from John you won't regret it.
might get that included in the price of the 4.45s (;
Old 10-21-2014 | 01:52 AM
  #43  
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That would be a great setup.
Old 10-21-2014 | 03:43 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
That would be a great setup.
zfr sedan with 4.45s? Assuming I get traction it'll be quite an impressive car.
Old 10-21-2014 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Waka Flocka Fluff
might get that included in the price of the 4.45s (;
Trust me I've had both mounts and the prs are soo much better with less vibration too. ZZP's look better and they make good parts, but not when it comes to suspension stuff.
Old 10-22-2014 | 03:26 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 63 Nova SS
Trust me I've had both mounts and the prs are soo much better with less vibration too. ZZP's look better and they make good parts, but not when it comes to suspension stuff.
I'll take your word on it. Powells stage 1 kit is actually cheaper than both tranny mounts zzp requires as well. And I know john is known for his great work with suspension. I will certainly be purchasing the stage 1 tranny mount set up from him. Might give my stock tranny a try with the zfr and see how she holds. Assuming my clutch goes i just got a hell of a deal on a clutch set up so I already have that and regardless of what gears I go with they all work with the clutch.
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