Water/Meth Injection.
#1
Water/Meth Injection.
Alright. So seeing as I have a limited budget, Im looking to see where my money will be best spent. My SS already has all the basic bolt ons, and Im getting a 3" DP and exhuast done hopefully by the end of the month. Soon after Ill be getting a HP dyno tune done, and was just curious if water/meth would even be worth the money? How much power would I see off a good tune, ect. Any help would be appreciated.
#2
yes worth it, you can pick up tons of power,keep valves/combustion chamber clean. if you started with a 91 octane tune and ran a 70/30 methanol water mixture with a 500cc nozzle i would expect you would pick up at least 20hp. with a 1000cc 60/40 it was around a 50hp difference on my 7163
#3
ur forgetting to mention to pick up that power ur gonna be increasing the timing, and if ur doing that u may want to be on the safe side and get a failsafe gauge which will cut boost to wastegate pressure if you meth stops spraying for some reason. if it does stop spraying and u have no way of watching ur timing u will get a lot of knock retard and possibly blow ur engine. unless of course u just run a bit more timing. if u want to know what the meth does, I was at 11 degrees timing, started spraying 750-800cc meth and upped timing to 17 degrees, went from traction in 3rd gear (this is winter on winter tires but on dry road) being able to keep car on the road, nothing to major, to spinning through 3rd, and having a hard time keeping car on the road, and possibly the reason I blew my trans. but DAMN that thing hauled ass. it scared the crap out of me. I have since changed my tune so I don't need a underwear change whenever I get on it. lol there, u can choose from that. I have a zfr though so ur power increase wouldn't be so dramatic as mine.
#5
Meth (or alcohol) injection is awesome! I ran it on another 2 liter turbo platform with great results (+50whp over the pump gas tune).
It is like having "on demand" race gas. If you go with a larger spray (like 1000-1500cc/min) you can get race gas results from it. So look at dyno's between pump and race gas (pump vs E85 tunes) to get a general idea of what it can do if pushed to the larger end of nozzle sizes.
But as was mentioned, if pushing it, a failsafe that cuts to low boost is a really good idea. Not sure I would count on the stock computer to compensate quickly enough for that much timing pull (and missing fuel) if the meth does not spray for some reason.
With that said, my alcohol injection system lasted 7 years without any problems never needing to trigger the failsafe except one time when I forgot to check the tanks and ran low. Over 50% mix (and I recommend 100% meth or alcohol) is flammable, so treat it like a fuel system. I recommend the Devil's Own 300psi pump. And for lines, I found the nylon tubing was fine between the tank and pump (no pressure side), but for the high pressure side I would absolutely recommend teflon lined braided SS lines with AN fittings (Something like Earl's lines). Same lines as used in Nitrous systems. I only paid an extra $65 for my SS lines and I had a dual nozzle system. Piece of mind that that cheaper plastic tubing will not end up melting and the oring sealed push-connects for that tubing are gone from the high pressure side replaced by good AN fittings.
Up to about 800cc/min spray seems fine with simple on/off activation. I was OK with it up to 1000cc/min. As you go past that you will really want a progressive controller to ramp in the larger spray delivery and help the transition. You can set it up where at lower boost it never comes on (say under 12psi), so you can still boost some and not end up using it. And then when the hammer goes down you get race gas results in high boost.
It is like having "on demand" race gas. If you go with a larger spray (like 1000-1500cc/min) you can get race gas results from it. So look at dyno's between pump and race gas (pump vs E85 tunes) to get a general idea of what it can do if pushed to the larger end of nozzle sizes.
But as was mentioned, if pushing it, a failsafe that cuts to low boost is a really good idea. Not sure I would count on the stock computer to compensate quickly enough for that much timing pull (and missing fuel) if the meth does not spray for some reason.
With that said, my alcohol injection system lasted 7 years without any problems never needing to trigger the failsafe except one time when I forgot to check the tanks and ran low. Over 50% mix (and I recommend 100% meth or alcohol) is flammable, so treat it like a fuel system. I recommend the Devil's Own 300psi pump. And for lines, I found the nylon tubing was fine between the tank and pump (no pressure side), but for the high pressure side I would absolutely recommend teflon lined braided SS lines with AN fittings (Something like Earl's lines). Same lines as used in Nitrous systems. I only paid an extra $65 for my SS lines and I had a dual nozzle system. Piece of mind that that cheaper plastic tubing will not end up melting and the oring sealed push-connects for that tubing are gone from the high pressure side replaced by good AN fittings.
Up to about 800cc/min spray seems fine with simple on/off activation. I was OK with it up to 1000cc/min. As you go past that you will really want a progressive controller to ramp in the larger spray delivery and help the transition. You can set it up where at lower boost it never comes on (say under 12psi), so you can still boost some and not end up using it. And then when the hammer goes down you get race gas results in high boost.
#6
If I had to get stainless line for my trunk mount it cost me a fortune lol. The high pressure hose is fine, if ur worried about a break u can always put it inside gas line like I did when I had it running under the car.
#7
In any case though I checked and Jegs and they have a 14ft line with fittings already on each end (-04 AN SS braided teflon lined) for $50.99. Cheaper than I thought it would be. Not too bad to avoid ever having to think about leaks or failed plastic tubing. Even if the line is protected those stupid 1/4" push connects with orings in them are sensitive to the slightest imperfections on the plastic tubing OD, and then dry over time (1-2 years, but still happens), and can leak in cold weather from the tubing and connector parts shrinking at different rates.
Russell Stainless Steel Braided Nitrous and Fuel Lines | Russell
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post