So our LNF Cobalt has tremendous wheel hop at the track (and on the street) if we do anything over about a quarter throttle all the way through first and second. I can actually get it to wheel hop (maybe more of a wheel jiggle) at 40mph in second.

We have a K&N intake, mostly for the panda sneeze since we haven't tuned yet (and in slow poor people preparation for an eventual tune) and, from what I understand, the K&N intake and the Ingalls Torque Damper, which seems to be the best, cheapest, most effective possible solution to our problem, is incompatible due to the heat shield on the K&N.

Has anyone tried simply removing the heat shield? Does that make the Stiffy (lol) fit? It seems counter-intuitive to care too much about the temperature of the air going in to the engine when we can't even get traction through second gear.

 

take that Ingalls off and throw it in the trash. No, seriously. Trash it.

Buy Powell rotated mounts.

Ill give you my paypal and you can send me beer money as a thank you.

 

I hear those cause a good bit of vibration on daily driving and aren't really necessary until you're at least tuned.

Edit: Also, how much do those cost? They seem to be the way to go for mounts but I don't see any prices listed anywhere for them.

 

I'm using zzp's front tran's mount and I love it. Much less engine movement and wheelhop reduction and very little cabin noise. I actually like the tiny vibrations inside the car. Feels like a race car.

 

Do what 07 said. Powell mounts are the way to go and they vibrate much less than the non rotated ZZP mounts. Pretty much feel like stock inside the car.
If you have the money I would also invest in powells rear cab bushings. You should be good after that. I'm also in for the beer money.

 

You would have to msg powell on here. I havnt owned a cobalt so long I forgot what they go for. Well worth the price though

 

Completely agreed, the Powell mounts vibrate just slightly more than stock, but nowhere near what the other aftermarket companies mounts do (which use polyurethane instead of stiffer than stock rubber).

My IRL is actually smoother than my GF's bone stock 2011 chevy aveo with half the mileage lol.

 

Check your CABs and TCABs, if they're toast you'll get hop real bad.

 

Ottp also uses rubber bushings.

Op, you get used to the vibrations and you will learn to like it. If you plan on getting a tune, it is pretty much a must have part if you wanna save your axles. As the above member said, worn cabs can also cause will hop and upgraded spherical bushings are relatively cheap and easy to replace (as long as the bushing isnt seized to the cradle bolt).

 

My car came with ZZP front and rear mounts.

It also has some kind of after market right mount *front of engine*

I have no complaints and no problem with wheel hop

 

Can you elaborate on what CAB and TCAB means?

 

Your lower control arms have 2 bushings. The one under the strut is the t cab and the one closest to the driver is the rear. On higher hp cars the rear ones tear and cause the control arm to move under power instead of being a solid type mount. This can effect wheel hop. The t cab can effect your turning on say a road course because they introduce slop. They can also effect wheel hop but generally they don't wear out as fast as the rear ones. The Powell mounts use a very hard rubber and a beefy shell that really stiffens up the arm.

 

is powell even on this site anymore?

 

I think he still checks in

 

Haven't seen powell post in awhile but yeah he's still around

 

I destroyed my TCABs out on autocross, replaced with I think ones from a Malibu as they are full rubber instead of voided. The Powell TCABs are all metal spherical, his CABs are Derlin. Good equipment, pricey compared to the alternatives but should last a lot longer and provide less movement than stock.

 

As said above the Malibu one are definitely a great alternative got them for like 10 bucks or so through rock auto

 

These are the TCABs I installed in my SS/TC. Fit perfectly.

 

Thank you for the info. I will pull the wheels and check next time my lower back feels up to it, now that I know what I'm looking for. Car only has 60k miles on it, though, and hasn't been track launched more than maybe 20 times total, and very few times on the road. No extra power.

I'll also PM Powell and see if he is still selling stuff.

 

Did it come with the dirt in the picture? lol

Also, are those press-in or do they just slip out? I haven't looked behind the wheel of the car much.

Edit: Nevermind, I looked at a video and there's no way, with my back and hands, that I could do that job in the apartment parking lot. I'd have to pay someone. I might be able to check it, though, but it looks like at least the wheel I'm checking would have to be in the air to be able to tell if that bushing is busted, am I correct?

 

Didn't come with any extra dirt on it. They're press in, you'll need an actual press to get the bushings in or out. A hammer and chisel will get the old one out too.

 

My rear cabs were tore with only 28,000 on the car. Think the sport lines I ran for awhile didn't help them.

 

Heh, it was a joke. If you look at the pic on Amazon, there is clearly some dirt smashed into the bushing. But thanks for the info on the install.

 

Yeah I saw, no idea why they picked a dirty picture instead of a nice one. They're stiffer than stock as the stock ones were voided rubber

 

Rear CABS, traction bars, zzp trans mounts, and low enough tire pressure works for me. I launch between 3k-3.5k on the two step around 4lbs boost. Good enough for 2.0 60ft on bad DRs. I really need to bite the bullet and get 15" slicks Front CABS will give similar effect as traction bars but I prefer the adjustability.