TMAP Sensor is either bad or the oring on it is bad.

try fixing o-ring and cleaning first. then change map sensor.

 

Tmap is the one on the intake manifold right?

 

No i actually think it is the lower one.

Which leads me to, do you GMS1 and was it installed correctly.

Oh and I think the MAP sensor oring is supposed to be blue. Green oring is bad.

 

It has GMS1 sensors, pigtails hard wired in, They look like they are still OK.

I will pull the bottom sensor when I have a chance and check it. Top sensor o-ring is greenish, so I will swap it out with a new o-ring. Is there any particular reason to not just use a generic rubber o-ring?

 

kn

You could use a generic one if the right size. I don't know the size

 

I have access to o-ring assortments, I can grab one that fits from there. I just know my local stealership(s) are probably not going to sell me just an o-ring and if they do, it will be pricey.

I cleaned the sensor and cleared the codes but I havent driven it since last Wednesday. Will hopefully have more time later on in the week as I finish up my midterms.

 

Update;

I took the car for a spin today, no misfires, pulled really hard, other than the inherent traction problems with snow tires the car drove better today than it ever has.

Problem is, tomorrow it will probably misfire again. Im not sure if its related to the sensor or not.

 

I remember you saying they were just connected by wire twists and not soldered. I also remember you saying in your last thread that you planned to go back and solder and shrink wrap them. Im guess you didnt do that yet? Its really possible that when the engine torques it breaks the connection. They should have just had pigtails to begin with... I cant believe cutting was ever an option.

 

Voltage fluctuations can happen with twisted wires are well.

 

I never understood why it was option either.

Either they wanted techs to get the work, or some engineer assumed a conversion cable would add more points of failure to the setup. Which I can respect, but most GM Techs are not 130 IQ

 

I agree pigtails would have been ideal, but whats done is done. It should have been done with soldering and heat shrinking as opposed to crips as well. But its been too cold and canadian winterish to sit outside and solder the connections, It may very well be the issue though.

So are we pretty sure this is MAP sensor related then? And can anyone verify which one is the TMAP sensor? I might pull everything apart next week when im on my study break for school and can have the car sort of out of commission for a few days, hopefully we get a couple days for my driveway to dry out.

 

The TMAP is in the intake mani

 

Sounds like it's the MAP on the intake manifold based on the codes.

 

Because GM wanted the setup to be irreversible, or at least detectable if someone tried to go back to stock. They only warrantied the tune and rest of the power train if the install and flashing was done by a dealer, so this allowed them to exclude copy cats.......or so they thought.

 

I cleaned that one and it seemed to stop those codes, it does still misfire on occasion without throwing those codes though.