Hey all , new to the group (and Cobalts in general)
Long story short looking to build up to the ZFR 7136 that ZZP offers.

I already have their intercooler with top charge pipe kit just put in new shifter cables have a flowmaster Super 10s muffler and a tune on E47 (50/50 E85 and 91) currently at 328whp and 416tq.

Other than that I'm pretty much stock. I've done some research here and there but still don't need what else is need other than basic bolt ons (still need full exhaust, bottom charge pipe and a cold air intake) I know stock engine can handle close to 500 but I'd be happy with mid 400s

I'm hoping someone can post a run down of Reccomended (requirements?) before shooing for the final part being the ZFR 7136.

I know for sure I will redo all 4 spark plugs and I'll need to get the GMS1s currently at 71k miles.

Is a new clutch needed?
Pistons/rods? Or are those only needed past 500+ (or at that point new block?)
I see the NT01s are the way to go for tires as well.
Injectors?
Will I need stage 2 cams?

I will be getting majority of my parts directly from ZZP

Tl;dr: can someone post a recommended (or needed etc) ZZP part list from cheapest to most expensive leading up to the ZZP 7136 turbo

Thanks again!

 

It's the 7163

I think extra fueling won't hurt, it's never good to risk running out of fuel. I'd put Opel injectors on your list.
KMO43 will tell you you don't need to build your engine, but of course it would be safer to do so.
I would think upgrading the clutch would be a requirement, along with basic bolt ons.
I wouldn't bother with the cold side CP, but that's just me. I'm running the stock one and it does just fine.
I'm sure others will chime on with their recommendations.

 

stock motor can take 550whp as far as we all know. its forged except for the pistons.

mod list u should do with that turbo to get ur mid 400 id say

lower cp as well, and 3bar sensors
southbend stage 4+ clutch.
k&n intake if u didn't say that already.
powell stage 1 trans mounts.
powell oil separator 3.0
water/meth injection. will keep things nice and safe on higher boost, and u can raise timing for more power, id get a failsafe gauge if u do it higher than a few degrees. but ur on E so meth isn't as nessesary.
intercepter gauge so u can monitor knock and stuff.
I'm drawing a blank on other stuff lol. I forget what other mods.
with that turbo at 28 psi with these mods on E u should easily make 450+whp and of course building the engine u can do a lot more and be safer. also u need a good tune from km043. and a boost ramp. plus put money aside for a new trans.

 

550whp really? I was under impression 450-500 was pushing it even with a good time

 

550 is where zzp bend a rod I think I've heard, but just look at kmo he's at 511 but idk how long that would last

 

Yes 550 is where zzp bent a rod. He has also been at 483 or so for about a yearish I believe. I'm sure he will chime in yet.

 

Ya says he guys who don't push that much or haven't been at those numbers long enough before a built motor to actually know. Kmo is pushing it for us to see what it can do. I think ud be fine at 450 for a good while , unless u drive around at wot everyday. Lol

 

I think that's the key if your at wot all the time it sure won't last, but yeah kmo was close to 500 for 1 yr +

 

It'll do 550

They windowed the block at 620

I don't drive at full retard all the time and when I actually race I usually get the job done half way through 3rd.

 

I think only a select few do that

 

Do what?

 

Paintballer was putting down just a hair under 500whp on his s259. He DD the car and would road trip from North Dakota to ohio in it. He had like 20k on it at that power level. Stock LNF with valve sprigs and stage 1 cams in the head.

 

That's basically what I'm doing I drive mine everywhere just got back from a 7 hour drive

 

My car is probably one that sees more abuse than most since it's not a daily and basically only sees spirited canyon drives and a lot of WOT road track action

 

But you're built on full E that really helps

 

Well, E47 for the time being. But hope to switch to full E soon

 

My next dyno will be E60 to E70

 

Where were ya Kevin

 

Back home to Kelowna

 

bet that was a fun drive

 

I took it pretty easy was on the winters but I don't waste time passing ppl.

 

I go through mountains?

 

That was the first turbo car I ever drove. It was a beast haha.

That car saw no easy life that's for sure and took every minute of it.

 

This is what I've compiled so far.

What will I need before and what will I need after or what isn't needed at all?

COBALT BUILD LIST:

AC Delco Iridiuma Spark Plugs for LNF- $29.99 (4 pack) ZZP

Ecotec head bolts-$69.99 ZZP

LSJ Upgraded Throwout bearing -$94.99 ZZP (with new clutch )

ECOTEC head studs-$144.99 ZZP

GM Stage 1 sensors- $149.99 ZZP

LNF Stainless Downpipe catless w/angled O2 bung- $169.99 ZZP

K&N LNF Cold air intake- $259.99 ZZP

Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel -$309.99 ZZP

Opel HP direct injection fuel injectors -$349.99 ZZP

3 inch Stainless Steel Cobalt LNF Catback exhaust w/muffler delete -$399.99. ZZP

Ecotec 4340 Connecting Rods-$449.99 ZZP

Wiseco Forged LNF Pistons
-$499.99 ZZP

South Bend Stage Clutches Stage 4 plus - $729.99 ZZP

ZFR 7163 Turbo -$2,239.99

PORTED HEAD, CAMS, TUNE COMBO- $2,249.99

 

Why are you doing all this work? And you don't need head bolts and head studs