ZZP Clutch rod install...Help please!
#1
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From: Dark side of the Moon
ZZP Clutch rod install...Help please!
Edited first post upon completion
OK, I know I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to get the clutch cyl out of the firewall in step 1 below...
I can barely get my hand in there and the only thing that turns is the anti-backflow valve. Does the sleeve itself turn counterclockwise where it comes through the firewall???
I thought OK, F'it and I'll just drop the whole clutch pedal assy, but I can't get the top nut off inside the firewall without a 1/4" drive swivel joint.
Appreciate any input from a kind soul that has done this.
Thanks in advance!
OK, I know I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to get the clutch cyl out of the firewall in step 1 below...
1. Open the hood and turn the master cylinder to unlock it from the firewall.
EDIT: The clutch cyl turns CLOCKWISE facing the firewall about 270* to unlock it. I had to remove the ECU and underhood fuse/relay box to be able to access the clutch cyl at all. It looks like it would be much easier to do the rod install from underneath when the tranny is out doing the clutch. No underside access with it together though, just a line of site.
2. Pull on the master cylinder and it will come out roughly 1", by moving it to the side it will hook onto the firewall with full preload on the clutch rod.
3. Under the dash, yank on the clutch pedal and the ball of the clutch rod will pop out of the master cylinder, leaving the rod hanging.
EDIT: Mine popped out of the clutch pedal first. Had to use vice grips and a 18" screwdriver as a pry bar to get the old rod out of the cyl. Bent the hell out of it, but got it unsnapped from the clutch cyl.
4. Pinch the retaining clip together to remove the clutch rod from the clutch pedal.
5. Install new clutch rod/clip onto the pedal.
6. Take the master cylinder and loosely set it back into place in the firewall.
7. Inside the car, set the ball of the adjustable clutch rod into (but not locking) the master cylinder
8. Under the hood, lock the master cylinder back into place.
EDIT: Just as hard as getting the cyl out. You are pushing against the clutch cyl at this point to lock it int the firewall. Turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten.
9. In the car use the clutch pedal to thrust and lock the ball of the clutch rod back in place.
10. Adjust the length of the clutch rod to suit application.
EDIT: The clutch cyl turns CLOCKWISE facing the firewall about 270* to unlock it. I had to remove the ECU and underhood fuse/relay box to be able to access the clutch cyl at all. It looks like it would be much easier to do the rod install from underneath when the tranny is out doing the clutch. No underside access with it together though, just a line of site.
2. Pull on the master cylinder and it will come out roughly 1", by moving it to the side it will hook onto the firewall with full preload on the clutch rod.
3. Under the dash, yank on the clutch pedal and the ball of the clutch rod will pop out of the master cylinder, leaving the rod hanging.
EDIT: Mine popped out of the clutch pedal first. Had to use vice grips and a 18" screwdriver as a pry bar to get the old rod out of the cyl. Bent the hell out of it, but got it unsnapped from the clutch cyl.
4. Pinch the retaining clip together to remove the clutch rod from the clutch pedal.
5. Install new clutch rod/clip onto the pedal.
6. Take the master cylinder and loosely set it back into place in the firewall.
7. Inside the car, set the ball of the adjustable clutch rod into (but not locking) the master cylinder
8. Under the hood, lock the master cylinder back into place.
EDIT: Just as hard as getting the cyl out. You are pushing against the clutch cyl at this point to lock it int the firewall. Turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten.
9. In the car use the clutch pedal to thrust and lock the ball of the clutch rod back in place.
10. Adjust the length of the clutch rod to suit application.
I thought OK, F'it and I'll just drop the whole clutch pedal assy, but I can't get the top nut off inside the firewall without a 1/4" drive swivel joint.
Appreciate any input from a kind soul that has done this.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Iam Broke; 03-19-2010 at 07:55 PM.
#3
I just saw Glen229 installed one of these, maybe PM him and ask if he did anything special. I think I remember reading something in his thread about that part being a PITA.
Added:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/zz-performance-99/review-zzp-adjustable-clutch-rod-upgrade-194022/
He just mentioned its a real bitch, sorry Tom Thought that would be more help.
Added:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/zz-performance-99/review-zzp-adjustable-clutch-rod-upgrade-194022/
He just mentioned its a real bitch, sorry Tom Thought that would be more help.
Last edited by BYT*SS*TURBO; 03-15-2010 at 10:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Prob won't have time to try it again tonight, but I'd sure like to know how it's done.
I'll get a 1/4" drive swivel and attack the clutch pedal bracket inside the car if I don't hear anything else.
Anyone??? Anyone??? Bueller???
I'll get a 1/4" drive swivel and attack the clutch pedal bracket inside the car if I don't hear anything else.
Anyone??? Anyone??? Bueller???
Last edited by Iam Broke; 03-16-2010 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#16
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Thanks Matt, I couldn't find him in the users list before I prob had a space in it or something. PM sent.
P.S. As an update on trying from the inside I couldn't get the clutch pedal backet down either. There is another nut inaccessable behind the steering rod linkage.
P.S. As an update on trying from the inside I couldn't get the clutch pedal backet down either. There is another nut inaccessable behind the steering rod linkage.
#17
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Edited first post with how I got'R'done. It ain't easy pard.
Should do it when the clutch is out, then you may have access from underneath the car.
Got the clutch adjusted to the stock engagement height ok though, the rod does what it's supposed to once it's in there.
P.S. Took it out for a whoopin' and the clutch rod fixed the WOT stiff shifts I had with the new clutch. I was having to doubleclutch 3rd & 4th since the new clutch was installed. The rod works!
Should do it when the clutch is out, then you may have access from underneath the car.
Got the clutch adjusted to the stock engagement height ok though, the rod does what it's supposed to once it's in there.
P.S. Took it out for a whoopin' and the clutch rod fixed the WOT stiff shifts I had with the new clutch. I was having to doubleclutch 3rd & 4th since the new clutch was installed. The rod works!
Last edited by Iam Broke; 03-19-2010 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#21
Let you know when I get around to it, I have an LSJ but it should be very similar. Waiting to either get a spare transmission I have rebuilt, or buy a new one then I will be doing the swap.
Kevin
Kevin
#23
The best way to do this mod is to remove your master cylinder completely and install it
You will notice the way the rod is held in allows it to be removed alot easier with the master cylinder out
We broke my rod ball off in the master cylinder cause it wouldnt let go by pulling on it
Had to pull the master cylinder all apart to get the ball out
You will notice the way the rod is held in allows it to be removed alot easier with the master cylinder out
We broke my rod ball off in the master cylinder cause it wouldnt let go by pulling on it
Had to pull the master cylinder all apart to get the ball out
#25
Once you have it out look closely where the ball goes in, You will notice as you pull on the rod it kinda locks it in but when you push it in it releases. You have to hold it on the open postion and pop the rod out
When you bleed the Clutch tighten the rod up on the threads and it will bleed nicely
When you pull your master just put a pair of vise grips on the oil line to keep from losing all your oil