ZZP Clutch rod install...Help please!
#26
I removed the ZZP rod when I replaced the master cyl after the cup holding the ball broke from me changing the rod in place. Need mechanic mod here. lol. Found out I broke the master when I went to bleed the clutch and as I pulled the pedal up, the master cyl piston stayed down in.
I found the rod was not needed once I properly bled the clutch. (SPEC Stage 2+)
I can't edit the first post anymore, but the master cyl turns clockwise 90* to remove it from the firewall. Take the fusebox, ecu & cradle out to make life much easier.
I found the rod was not needed once I properly bled the clutch. (SPEC Stage 2+)
I can't edit the first post anymore, but the master cyl turns clockwise 90* to remove it from the firewall. Take the fusebox, ecu & cradle out to make life much easier.
#29
Senior Member
#30
Senior Member
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Well since pressure bleeding seems to be part of the clutch rod install, I'm going to say the clutch rod install. I'm looking for a really thorough step by step, and with pics if possible, but very thorough.
Be nice as I found many many threads that go over this, and cover some steps, but then later some people mention some other steps, and seems like there isn't a really good how to for this out there.
Just wish my damn mechanic could have did it when he was installing the clutch, and throw out bearing...
He said he couldn't figure it out, and sounds like it would have been easier when the transmission was out.
I like step by steps that cover every bolt, so I don't take half the car apart when I don't have to. It's always a good learning exercise and all, but unclipping/bolting/whatever else really adds wear and tear, and plus I always end up losing blood...
Be nice as I found many many threads that go over this, and cover some steps, but then later some people mention some other steps, and seems like there isn't a really good how to for this out there.
Just wish my damn mechanic could have did it when he was installing the clutch, and throw out bearing...
He said he couldn't figure it out, and sounds like it would have been easier when the transmission was out.
I like step by steps that cover every bolt, so I don't take half the car apart when I don't have to. It's always a good learning exercise and all, but unclipping/bolting/whatever else really adds wear and tear, and plus I always end up losing blood...
#31
Senior Member
Well since pressure bleeding seems to be part of the clutch rod install, I'm going to say the clutch rod install. I'm looking for a really thorough step by step, and with pics if possible, but very thorough.
Be nice as I found many many threads that go over this, and cover some steps, but then later some people mention some other steps, and seems like there isn't a really good how to for this out there.
Just wish my damn mechanic could have did it when he was installing the clutch, and throw out bearing...
He said he couldn't figure it out, and sounds like it would have been easier when the transmission was out.
I like step by steps that cover every bolt, so I don't take half the car apart when I don't have to. It's always a good learning exercise and all, but unclipping/bolting/whatever else really adds wear and tear, and plus I always end up losing blood...
Be nice as I found many many threads that go over this, and cover some steps, but then later some people mention some other steps, and seems like there isn't a really good how to for this out there.
Just wish my damn mechanic could have did it when he was installing the clutch, and throw out bearing...
He said he couldn't figure it out, and sounds like it would have been easier when the transmission was out.
I like step by steps that cover every bolt, so I don't take half the car apart when I don't have to. It's always a good learning exercise and all, but unclipping/bolting/whatever else really adds wear and tear, and plus I always end up losing blood...
#32
Premium Member
iTrader: (5)
If you want to save yourself a lot of headaches
Move your fuse box out of the way
Pull the pedal from the clutchrod inside the car
Remove lines from and remove master cylinder
Observe how the clutch rod gets locked in
Remove clutch rod
Re-install in car
Crank rod to shortest position if i remember right
Bleed system with pedal and cracking the bleeder
Re-install rest of crap
Done
Move your fuse box out of the way
Pull the pedal from the clutchrod inside the car
Remove lines from and remove master cylinder
Observe how the clutch rod gets locked in
Remove clutch rod
Re-install in car
Crank rod to shortest position if i remember right
Bleed system with pedal and cracking the bleeder
Re-install rest of crap
Done
#33
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Welp after the mechanic couldn't figure out how to replace the master cylinder rod, he told me my current one should be fine with the car and the new clutch...
Drove the car home from the mechanic. Once to get groceries, and then a third time I drove down the road to get the mail and on the way back from the mail the rod disconnected from the clutch and went down into the firewall.
Got a friend to give me a tow the 500 ft to my place and then called the mechanic and told them to come pick the car up and fix it...
Just got done loading it on the tow truck now.
Car is suppose to be leaving for the UK on the 28th and garage is only open tomorrow.
Glad it happened today and not the 28th...
Oh well, saves me from having to do it, but on the other hand, if I done it at least I'd know it is done right, cuz I'd take the time to do it right.
Drove the car home from the mechanic. Once to get groceries, and then a third time I drove down the road to get the mail and on the way back from the mail the rod disconnected from the clutch and went down into the firewall.
Got a friend to give me a tow the 500 ft to my place and then called the mechanic and told them to come pick the car up and fix it...
Just got done loading it on the tow truck now.
Car is suppose to be leaving for the UK on the 28th and garage is only open tomorrow.
Glad it happened today and not the 28th...
Oh well, saves me from having to do it, but on the other hand, if I done it at least I'd know it is done right, cuz I'd take the time to do it right.
#35
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I printed out the instructions from their website for the master cylinder install and gave it to the tow truck driver to give to the mechanic.
Hopefully they read and follow that. According to ZZP this should only be a 30 min job, so hoping they can figure it out in a day with written instructions...
#36
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I just read the instructions for the clutch rod. Sounds super easy. They should be able to figure that out!
On another note, there should be a rule that all install instructions have pictures. Many people are visual learners!!!
On another note, there should be a rule that all install instructions have pictures. Many people are visual learners!!!
#37
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Well if actual mechanics can't figure out, WITH the instructions, then I'm going to have to advise they seek a career concealer, because they obviously have made a wrong career choice.
Last edited by nutty21; 12-23-2011 at 10:06 PM.
#38
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
Welp after the mechanic couldn't figure out how to replace the master cylinder rod, he told me my current one should be fine with the car and the new clutch...
Drove the car home from the mechanic. Once to get groceries, and then a third time I drove down the road to get the mail and on the way back from the mail the rod disconnected from the clutch and went down into the firewall.
Got a friend to give me a tow the 500 ft to my place and then called the mechanic and told them to come pick the car up and fix it...
Just got done loading it on the tow truck now.
Car is suppose to be leaving for the UK on the 28th and garage is only open tomorrow.
Glad it happened today and not the 28th...
Oh well, saves me from having to do it, but on the other hand, if I done it at least I'd know it is done right, cuz I'd take the time to do it right.
Drove the car home from the mechanic. Once to get groceries, and then a third time I drove down the road to get the mail and on the way back from the mail the rod disconnected from the clutch and went down into the firewall.
Got a friend to give me a tow the 500 ft to my place and then called the mechanic and told them to come pick the car up and fix it...
Just got done loading it on the tow truck now.
Car is suppose to be leaving for the UK on the 28th and garage is only open tomorrow.
Glad it happened today and not the 28th...
Oh well, saves me from having to do it, but on the other hand, if I done it at least I'd know it is done right, cuz I'd take the time to do it right.
#39
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
Well since pressure bleeding seems to be part of the clutch rod install, I'm going to say the clutch rod install. I'm looking for a really thorough step by step, and with pics if possible, but very thorough.
Be nice as I found many many threads that go over this, and cover some steps, but then later some people mention some other steps, and seems like there isn't a really good how to for this out there.
Just wish my damn mechanic could have did it when he was installing the clutch, and throw out bearing...
He said he couldn't figure it out, and sounds like it would have been easier when the transmission was out.
I like step by steps that cover every bolt, so I don't take half the car apart when I don't have to. It's always a good learning exercise and all, but unclipping/bolting/whatever else really adds wear and tear, and plus I always end up losing blood...
Be nice as I found many many threads that go over this, and cover some steps, but then later some people mention some other steps, and seems like there isn't a really good how to for this out there.
Just wish my damn mechanic could have did it when he was installing the clutch, and throw out bearing...
He said he couldn't figure it out, and sounds like it would have been easier when the transmission was out.
I like step by steps that cover every bolt, so I don't take half the car apart when I don't have to. It's always a good learning exercise and all, but unclipping/bolting/whatever else really adds wear and tear, and plus I always end up losing blood...
#40
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Have any idea where we can get one for free? I found this site that you can buy them for but it seems wrong to have to pay for it. I bought the car dammit!
Chevrolet Cobalt Factory Service Manuals
Chevrolet Cobalt Factory Service Manuals
#42
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I took it to a local Ford place as they were the only ones around that could machine a fly wheel. They didn't have the manuals, and called the Chev place, but they wouldn't help them.
I then took it to the Chev place myself and they didn't have a clue ether and said they didn't want to attempt it. Also when I asked them about it, two techs popped the hood and looked at the front of the engine... Why, I'm not sure, but they stood there looking at the front of the engine hemming and hawing for a good 5 min, then gave up lol.
Yeah I here a lot of good stuff about Belfast when it comes to training of all genres.
Looking forward to that. Be good to have good help around for whatever I need help with.
Got good use of my tow hooks I installed the other day anyway lol. Tell Gloria I said thanks for sending the spacers. Got here in time for me to get them on there and get some use out of them already lol.
I then took it to the Chev place myself and they didn't have a clue ether and said they didn't want to attempt it. Also when I asked them about it, two techs popped the hood and looked at the front of the engine... Why, I'm not sure, but they stood there looking at the front of the engine hemming and hawing for a good 5 min, then gave up lol.
Yeah I here a lot of good stuff about Belfast when it comes to training of all genres.
Looking forward to that. Be good to have good help around for whatever I need help with.
Got good use of my tow hooks I installed the other day anyway lol. Tell Gloria I said thanks for sending the spacers. Got here in time for me to get them on there and get some use out of them already lol.
#44
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Well the mechanic doesn't know what the hell is wrong and "THINKS" that the master cylinder is gone, as when he tries to but the rod in it goes right through to the floor with no pressure, and they said they can't find any leaks. No pressure though, so they think that the master cylinder is gone.
I'm screwed if that IS the issue as the Chev dealer ship is closed and the car HAS to go the UK on the 28th and every thing is closed till then.
ZZP is closed, just an answering machine.
REALLY could use some help here if anyone has any ideas.
I'm screwed. Have a 20 foot container going out on the 28th that's paid for, and car can't go in it if it doesn't run.
HELP!!!
I'm screwed if that IS the issue as the Chev dealer ship is closed and the car HAS to go the UK on the 28th and every thing is closed till then.
ZZP is closed, just an answering machine.
REALLY could use some help here if anyone has any ideas.
I'm screwed. Have a 20 foot container going out on the 28th that's paid for, and car can't go in it if it doesn't run.
HELP!!!
#46
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
No such thing here. I'm in the sticks.
So "IF" it is the Clutch Master Cylinder
When I do a part search I'm asked
After 1/31/08
Before 1/30/08
for all model cobalts.
What's the difference? I take it I need after 1/31/08?
When I do a search for before I do see 2008 model cars, but they are 2.2's and 2.4's
See older then 2008 2.0's.
When I look for after 1/31/08 I don't see any 2.0's that have a Clutch Master Cylinder available, just 2.2's.
Thoughts?
So mechanic totally screwed me. He still isn't even sure if the clutch master cylinder is the problem, but if it is he can't get the part, and even if I did find the part he's done for the day. Now I have a 20 foot container I'm paying to ship this car over to the UK in and I need to go myself over to the UK, but the cars not working and can't send it if it's not working so I'm screwed.
Mechanic said that dirt probably got into the master cylinder as it can happen, but isn't in anyway their fault and would have happened no matter what... Not sure how true or likely that is.
Anyway, he totally screwed me now as the car no longer works, not drivable and I have to have it good to go on this ship and he is refusing to work on it now to even find out what the issue really is...
Feel like ether sewing him for the cost of the damn container ship and the work, or taking an out side of court approach. Not too damn happy, can tell you that.
Don't know what the hell to do now...
So "IF" it is the Clutch Master Cylinder
When I do a part search I'm asked
After 1/31/08
Before 1/30/08
for all model cobalts.
What's the difference? I take it I need after 1/31/08?
When I do a search for before I do see 2008 model cars, but they are 2.2's and 2.4's
See older then 2008 2.0's.
When I look for after 1/31/08 I don't see any 2.0's that have a Clutch Master Cylinder available, just 2.2's.
Thoughts?
So mechanic totally screwed me. He still isn't even sure if the clutch master cylinder is the problem, but if it is he can't get the part, and even if I did find the part he's done for the day. Now I have a 20 foot container I'm paying to ship this car over to the UK in and I need to go myself over to the UK, but the cars not working and can't send it if it's not working so I'm screwed.
Mechanic said that dirt probably got into the master cylinder as it can happen, but isn't in anyway their fault and would have happened no matter what... Not sure how true or likely that is.
Anyway, he totally screwed me now as the car no longer works, not drivable and I have to have it good to go on this ship and he is refusing to work on it now to even find out what the issue really is...
Feel like ether sewing him for the cost of the damn container ship and the work, or taking an out side of court approach. Not too damn happy, can tell you that.
Don't know what the hell to do now...
#48
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
I checked alll you posted. I suggest you use a tow motor dockside to load and unload your car, there is a tow hook on it now, so they can load it into container and off again. Put an arrow where the tow hook is located with a note on the windshield and on the shipping documents. Order a new clutch master cylinder from CED and have it shipped out to you. I will email you copy of the relevant workshop manual information so you can get it fixed out in Belfast. Hope this helps.
#49
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I checked alll you posted. I suggest you use a tow motor dockside to load and unload your car, there is a tow hook on it now, so they can load it into container and off again. Put an arrow where the tow hook is located with a note on the windshield and on the shipping documents. Order a new clutch master cylinder from CED and have it shipped out to you. I will email you copy of the relevant workshop manual information so you can get it fixed out in Belfast. Hope this helps.
#50
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Good mechanics... Couldn't figure out how to get the master cylinder out, or the new one in, and can't even diagnose the issue for sure, leaving me with a car that won't run, and now they have towed the car 45 min to their shop, won't work on it, won't tow it, and won't touch it until Wednesday, which is when the car needs to be on a shipping heading to the UK.
All I have to say is if you ever find your self around Tusket, Nova Scotia, DO NOT go to Ford Tusket. They are pathetic. So now I'm left trying to figure out away to get my car from there back here. Take it apart myself and look to see what actually is going on. Something they obviously couldn't be bothered to do, since they still arn't sure what the issue is.
All they have been able to tell me they know for sure is that the clutch master cylinder rod goes through to the floor, which was pretty damn obvious, and I didn't really need them to tell me that considering isn't no longer attached to the peddle and the peddle goes to the floor. You can see the plastic tag still poking through the firewall on the floor from the mater cylinder rod...
Last edited by nutty21; 12-24-2011 at 11:22 PM.