nutty21

iTrader: (1)

They won't take the car unless it is working condition, so I have to figure out if the master cylinder really needs to be replaced, or if the firewall ripped, or what really happened. If I need a new master cylinder I have to figure out a place that will be open tuesday that I can get one from, then figure out how to get it all together and working again for sure all tuesday.

Most likely will need help from all on this one. Need to diagnose this thing.

Going to get the car tomorrow morning. Will take the fuse box, etc out and start taking pics and post. See what we got.

ATLsilverSS

iTrader: (4)

damn bro that sucks bad. i would be super pissed at that dealership and would demand that they do something about it. clutch worked when you brought it to them, they installed a clutch, now clutch doesn't work...........not rocket science here


good luck to ya....i wish i could be of any help to you but i know nothing about your issue....hope you get it figured out soon

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's what I told them. They said it would have happened no matter who done it.
I said, " I don't know about that."

They don't even know what's wrong with it for sure...
They just said, oh it could be this, but we're not sure...

Then they leave me with my car stuck at their garage.
They won't even tow it back to my place so I can work on it myself.
They wont' work on it or even figure out what's wrong for sure.
Won't do a thing with it they said until the 28th, which they know I have to have the car 3 hrs away from there that same morning to be loaded on a container ship.
Even if it is what they think MAY be wrong, they don't have the part, and don't know where to get the part...

Clutch and everything was working fine before I took my car to them.
Bring them a stage 4 clutch, throwout bearing and new clutch master cylinder rod.
They couldn't figure out how to get the master cylinder rod in there, then tell me it'll be fine as is. Drive the car twice, and the current rod ends up detached from the peddle and in through the firewall...

Have I never took the car to them at all I'd have a working car. I was expecting things to get better, not completely broken...
Take them a working car, they give me back a broken one... Sign of a great mechanic...

ATLsilverSS

iTrader: (4)

i would raise holy **** at that dealership. demand to speak to the service manager....general manager...even the owner.

now i say raise holy **** but not in a obscene beligerant type of way. just don't accept their bullshit answers, but keep cool otherwise they really won't do **** for you

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, worst thing is they're closed now over the holidays until the day my car needs to be on the ship, so I have no one at all I can even complain to. They only had a few people on the last day they were open, and I get the feeling they never even really bothered with my car. Else they would know what's actually wrong for sure.

ATLsilverSS

iTrader: (4)

did you email powell?

Frogstofall

iTrader: (1)

Did you post in your regional section on here? There has to be SOMEBODY that can help you who drives a cobalt! Damn I wish lived closer, I would be in my car on the way to that POS dealership with a brick and my tool box!

Please keep us posted! Good luck!

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

I'm on the very southern tip of Nova Scotia.

I'm point B and my car is stuck at point A right now:

Map me to car

Sooo. went up there with a trailer hoping the car MAY fit on it. Car was about half a foot short from fitting on the trailer... My father won't just tow me with a rope, so cars stuck.
I'll I managed to do today was bend my rear tow hook all up trying to get it on the trailer.
Didn't have no good way to get it on the trailer, so there are rings on the floor of the open trailer that attach to the frame. Looped a rope through one of those rings, from my car through to the truck. When the car got about three feet from the hook it was just to hard of an angle down. Just pulled the tow hook right down and sideways...
They hold that's for sure. Now have to try to figure out how I can bend that back straight somehow.


Cars still stuck, just with a new bent tow hook now, and it's the 25th now, today pretty much over, and car is suppose to be on a ship to the UK on the 28th, so I'm pretty much screwed. Nothing open tomorrow... Car is there, I am here, and if it is the clutch master cylinder that is gone, then I still don't have one anyway...

I'm going to end up paying for a 20 foot container to ship over to the UK and it'll be empty. I'll be there and the car will be stuck broken back here....

Man I'm sooo ticked at Tusket Ford....

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

the rear hook plate is long pulling down vertically on it is not good. I can send you a new long plate for xmas, give me your addy in belfast lol...why dont u do a u haul front wheel dolly to bring it back home? If the trailer was too short, probably good u did not get the cobalt on it, that trailer must have been too lite for the 3200 lb car....

good luck.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Wow, thanks that'd be great. I still have no clue of my address yet. My company keeps having me hold on everything but I'm suppose to be moving around the 13th of next month, so I really hate holding off any longer.

So I have gotten the Car back here. I found out something I didn't know.
My extended warranty covers towing the car. Only to a GM dealer. Actually scratch that. Only to the closes GM dealer, but I explained the situation to them and they agreed to have it towed to the local GM dealer closer to me. They only cover 33 Km and I was to pay the extra 30km or so. The tow truck driver though was nice enough to tow it to my house though, after explaining everything, so that was good.

Now have the car here. Tomorrow being the 26th. Car is suppose to be on a boat on the 28th. I have to work the 26th and 27th. Still have to pack stuff and take inventory for insurance / boarder clearance. Still need to figure out what is wrong with the car still. IF it is the clutch master cylinder, I have to track down a part. I think I found the part, but not sure if any places that'd have it on hand would be open even in time. On top of that they are all at least three hours from here, so min 6 hr driving...
Then have to get the parts back on the car.

Mathematically if everything went like clockwork there'd still never be enough time...

Worst still I'm not sure how to even tell if it is the mast cylinder that is the issue, our maybe it's a fluid issue. All I know is currently the master cylinder road is down in the firewall. Maybe the firewall ripped. Not sure.

Going to need some help from everyone here.
Hoping to get up tomorrow morning and pull the fuse box, etc out before work.

So any tips anyone can leave on getting the master cylinder out would be great, as I'm sure I'll need them.

I'll post any pics requested of me tomorrow also.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Master cylinder for the clutch sits in the firewall; a TC has a reinforced plate. The mcyl housing is plastic and the metal pushrod end sits in a white plastic clip that engages in the pedal iirc. Tomorrow I can scan the pages in off the workshop manual and send them to you. Good luck.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have pics of what this all is suppose to look like?
I'm looking at my clutch peddle. I see a yellow tab thing on the floor into the firewall and nothing going to my clutch at all.

If anyone has pics it'd help.

HEATON

iTrader: (3)

Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement (MU3)
Removal Procedure





1. Remove the clutch pedal retainer from the front of the clutch pedal assembly.

2. Pull the clutch pedal upward in order to disengage the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.

3. Remove the UBEC. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement .

Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice .

4. Place a shop towel under the clutch master cylinder in order to catch any fluid loss.

5. Disconnect the clutch hose (1) from the clutch master cylinder.

6. Disconnect the clutch line (2) from the clutch master cylinder.

7. Cap the reservoir and hydraulic lines in order to prevent fluid loss and contamination.





8. Rotate the clutch master cylinder one ź turn clockwise and remove the cylinder from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure





Important: While installing, ensure that the clutch master cylinder pushrod is aligned with he clutch pedal.

1. Install the clutch master cylinder while rotating ź turn counterclockwise.

2. Uncap the reservoir and hydraulic lines.





3. Connect the clutch line (2) to the clutch master cylinder.

4. Connect the clutch hose (1) to the clutch master cylinder.

5. Install the UBEC. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement .

6. Connect the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal.

7. Install the clutch pedal retainer.

8. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic Clutch System Bleeding .


Clutch Pedal Replacement
Removal Procedure





1. Remove the clutch pedal pivot nut (1).





1. Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the clutch position sensor (2)





1. Depress the tabs of the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer and release the clutch pedal from the pushrod.





1. Remove the clutch pedal bracket to front of dash nuts (2).

2. Remove the steering column. Refer to Steering Column Replacement .

3. Remove the clutch pedal assembly (1).

Installation Procedure





1. Install the clutch pedal assembly (1).

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

2. Install the clutch pedal bracket to front of dash nuts (2).

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 10 Nˇm (89 lb in).


3. Install the steering column. Refer to Steering Column Replacement .





1. Install the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal, ensure that the pushrod retainer is fully seated to the pedal.





1. Install the clutch pedal pivot nut (1).

Tighten
Tighten the nut to 10 Nˇm (89 lb in).






1. Connect the electrical connector (1) to the clutch position sensor (2)

Warning: Replacement or reprogramming of the ECM, or replacement of the clutch pedal position sensor (CPPS) or clutch pedal requires that a CPPS learn procedure be performed. Failure to perform the CPPS learn procedure may result in personal injury or damage to the vehicle or its components if the vehicle is in gear and the starter motor is accidentally engaged.




2. Perform the clutch pedal position sensor learn procedure. Refer to Clutch Pedal Position Sensor Learn for Getrag 5 speed transmission or Clutch Pedal Position Sensor Learn for MU3 transmission.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

K, thanks.

Master Cylinder is out now.

When I pump on the thing it sounds like air is returning back through the line to the clutch.
I have no pressure right now in the master cylinder.

Thoughts?

New Master Cylinder you figure?

What else could it be?

Thanks,

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

So I have a 2008 Cobalt SS and really need to know FOR SURE what part I need here.

When I go on car-parts.com and do a search I'm asked if I need a clutch master cylinder from before
1/30/08 or after 1/31/08.

Anyone know absolutely for sure here?

Really need to know now to get the right part today if possible or tomorrow at the latest.

09BlueBaltSS

Lnfs didn't hit dealers til late '08 so u should have after 1/31/08

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

That's sort of what I was thinking but when I do a search for the part even after that date I get results from Pontiac G5's also so doesn't seem LNF specific, so not sure.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

i would make a strong bet that the distribution block on the clutch pipe to the slave cylinder is not on properly. it has two hair pin clips. One to the clutch pipe and one to the master cylinder. the one to the master cylinder has an o ring seal on the black hose leading tothe cylinder.

The other to the clutch pipe has a round tapered and stepped seal that sits on top of the clutch pipe and into the distribution block. The block also has the 9mm wrench sized bleed nipple on it. Remove the hair pin carefully so you dont lose it, lift up and inspect. If the seal is damaged you are screwed. If it is left inside the alloy distribution block remove it carefully and place it on the clutch pipe, then press the block down firmly on it and put the hairpin clip in properly...

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Ecotec Clutch Pipe Elbow 24252286 - Crate Engine Depot

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,

I'll try and sneak away from working now to have a look to see.

Thanks again for all the help.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Anyone happen to have any more pics of this.

Looking at it now, but not positive of what's what.

Thanks,

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Found it.

Wouldn't it be leaking through if it were that?
I hear air like it's not getting fluid from the brake fluid reservoir for some reason.
The reservoir is half full of fluid. Between max and min.

qwikredline

That is because the reservoir is shared by the brake system. I would guess all the fluid for the clutch is long gone. Step by step trace everything if u have the fuse box out try removing the feed line see what is there.then the distribution block hopefully that's them problem because if. It is. Inside the trans then u are. Screwed x 2

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

But doesn't the fluid come directly from the brake reservoir to the clutch master cylinder and then the clutch master cylinder pumps fluid to the clutch?
So the line from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder is only about a 6inch long piece of hose, so if the master cylinder was actually pumping properly I shouldn't hear air being pumped constantly.

If I disconnect the line from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch and leave the line from the clutch master cylinder to the reservoir connected and pump the master cylinder then shouldn't fluid be coming from the nipple for the line that runs to the clutch?

Please do correct me if I'm wrong, because this is all just how I think it works, so if there's something I'm missing I could use the info.

Right now the thing just seems like it's not pumping anything. There's just no pressure at all and sounds like it's pumping air.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

k, so if I cover the nipple that is suppose to go to the clutch from the master cylinder pressure does build so I guess you're right.

Now getting this elbow off. How hard should I have to pull?

I pulled the metal clip, but it's not pulling up none to easy and don't want to break anything else.

When you say screwed, what would I need to replace? Wouldn't I just need a O-ring or something?