Well i guess its finally time to start piecing together a turbo LSJ for myself This is just a forum for me to track my progress and post pictures and get input from others. Heres where i'm at so far in my head lol.. Im thinking im gonna go with the 256et just because the 259 seems like a little much for me and i dont think i'd ever want more than 450whp in this car.

SOO heres what im debating right now, do i spend the extra time and money now to throw forged internals in my car while its all apart. Or do i go with a conservative tune at lets say 325-350whp and see how my current engine holds up. I have yet to compression test my engine, but from the way it runs and the way the oil levels are and the fact that nothing but premium fuel has been ran in it makes be believe it will come back pretty good. However, what are the chances that 350hp blows a hole in a sleeve or what not. I'd like some input on this.

Another thing is head work. Not sure if these power numbers require a cam and or valve work, because some seem to make these numbers just fine with a stock head or simply just a light port and polish with stock valve springs. Although i'm open to replacing those if anyone sees it as necessary. My power goals are not huge lol.

Other than that its gonna be a pretty basic LSJ-T. Typical saab manifold mod, i'll have a return bung welded on my own oil pan, probably go with ZZP's alternator/belt solution, 80# injectors for possible e85, a tune is also in question.. if anybody has experience in or near northeast ohio it would be greatly appreciated in the next couple months.

Feel free to leave advice and input on what you guys think is best. Hopefully if all goes well i'll have a garage to put the car in by Tuesday and i'll be borrowing my dad's extra truck until the build is done. Thanks for reading and leaving your criticism!

also i'd like to stay around $2500 if thats not too out of the question!

 

and if anyone is selling an afr gage for a decent price let me know cause thats also high on the list of priorities.

 

Your budget is too low for the parts you are listing. Up it $1000.

 

You think? where do you think that 2500 is going lol. Its possible i could up it 1000 tho. May take me a little longer then. Is there anything parts wise you'd do differently?

 

If I were trying to go turbo on the cheap, I'd gut the blower and run my stock intake manifold. Kills two birds with 1 stone. You don't have to buy an intake mani or a belt solution. And if you planned on running relatively low boost for a while, you wouldn't need an intercooler until you had the money to buy one as the stock intake manifold is water cooled

Also, if you can find one of the old garret turbo kit exhaust manifolds and elbows, then you can run the stock downpipe or the normal zzp dp. All of that would save you at least 500 bucks. I'm not sure of the bolt pattern on that garret turbo exhaust, but I think you can bolt up larger turbos than just the disco potato

 

Agreed. Seems a bit low.

 

Is this even possible?

 

guy with a redline did it. its on the rlf, and its a sticky on their modification forum i think.. he made a backing plate for the supercharger snout though and didnt bolt it back up. thats where i would do it differently. i would bolt back up the snout if possible. not sure if it is or not, but i currently do not have the money, nor the time to go turbo. ill find out when i do.

but you would route the piping just like you are twincharging without the blower making any boost. and since you would still have the bypass valve, you could utilize the first gear boost reduction tables to help maintain traction in 1st gear.

 

That sounds SOOO ghetto.

 

Wideband 200
TUNER 3-400
turbo 800-1500
manifold 2-400
dp 2-300
wg 150-300
bov 150-250
Saab IM 150-300
piping 3-500
intercooler 2-300
oil lines 50-150
misc clamps, couplers, fittings, etc. 100


As you can see going by the median range you are out of money by the time you reach the BOV.
those numbers are based off of used and new prices of quality parts and not cheap ebay junk.

 

why? all you have to do is pull the rotor pack out.

 

I think i can get parts a little cheaper than that. I'm in no hurry and dont need to jump on every part i see. And as for keeping the blower idk if i'd like that. Its a good idea but i could just go with zzp's adapter plate and keep my intake anyways.

and if i just go e85 from the start i can ditch an intercooler and that will also save a lot of piping.

 

X 1000000000000000

 

This build will never happen.

 

Lol okay

 

Okay well i guess I'll just figure it out on my own then lol. Thanks for no help haha. Someone can delete this post if they want.

 

Congrats. You have learned the ways of many.
Hint. Read. It has all been covered a million times.

 

Id say for 350 hp a completely stock engine is fine. You could use a 2871 or 2866 and be right on the money. As for gutting the supercharger i dont think its a TERRIBLE idea but a better idea would be to sell all of the supercharger **** for around 800 and then put that money towards turbo stuff.

 

Haha okay *******. like i said this post is for me to keep track of my ****. Idk why you even wasted your time replying. You've given no knowledge because you have nothing to give. I've read countless forums on the subject. You can take your worthless comments with you lol.

 

Thats exactly what i was planning on doing. Is $800 about what i could get for all of it? I havent really looked at what its selling for.

 

Depends on if you have any mods or all stock stuff

 

Anybody selling anything ?

 

stock i was thinking roughly 500. although i have a zzp downpipe and header i could probably sell since i wouldnt be able to use them with turbo.

 

so my car died today by sputtering and then stalling. I got it to start again but when i got home it would not start. I took my fuel rail cover off and pushed the little valve stem to see if i had fuel pressure and i didnt. i immediatly thought fuel pump which is like $400 lol. Anyways i ended up changing the fuse, but i have 3 codes thrown and my car isnt running right. It has a rough/surging idle and when WOT it lags and sputters before accelerating. Here are the codes.. P0103 P0141 P0171. Do all of these point to O2 sensor? Or MAF sensor or what lol? Idk why all of the sudden these are all being thrown.. I cleared them and within a half hour they were back.

 

Idk why you'd pay $400 for a pump when you can get an aftermarket one for >$150