2K5SS/SC?'s Headgasket Install with Pics!!!
08-22-2006, 10:39 PM
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2K5SS/SC?'s Headgasket Install with Pics!!!
Well as most of you guys know my headgasket blew and I'm replacing it with something a little bit better. I had to cut a 1.25" wrench in half to get it to fit where I needed, and I also had to modify an allen key as well. The manifold itself has a mount bolt on the bottom as well, just in case anybody was wondering. The GM build book has been extremely helpful for the most part. My head is currently getting resurfaced as it was out of spec, but it should be done tomorrow. I can't wait to get it back together, and go for a drive. 
Here are some pictures for you guys. Sorry about the quality, but I just didn't feel like playing around with the camera settings to get perfect shots in my garage.
And lastly the new stuff! Don't these parts look nice? Mmmmm...
Here are some pictures for you guys. Sorry about the quality, but I just didn't feel like playing around with the camera settings to get perfect shots in my garage.
And lastly the new stuff! Don't these parts look nice? Mmmmm...
08-23-2006, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Halfcent
I see you got studs instead of bolts. Very good call. ARP or Bates?
Doesn't the box look like it says Golden Eagle? I am not familiar with that brand.
08-23-2006, 08:18 AM
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Golden Eagle Headstuds. They are the ones Twincharged used on his car, and the ones GM uses on some of their projects. They have a glassbead finish for more accurate torque specs than the avg. black coating found on most studs. Good stuff needless to say.
I blew the headgasket with only GM Stage 2, intake, and exhaust. I received my 2.8" pulley two days late which would have made this disaster worse if it had been on time. The 2.8" is still sitting in the box needless to say.
I blew the headgasket with only GM Stage 2, intake, and exhaust. I received my 2.8" pulley two days late which would have made this disaster worse if it had been on time. The 2.8" is still sitting in the box needless to say.
08-23-2006, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
Golden Eagle Headstuds. They are the ones Twincharged used on his car, and the ones GM uses on some of their projects. They have a glassbead finish for more accurate torque specs than the avg. black coating found on most studs. Good stuff needless to say.
I blew the headgasket with only GM Stage 2, intake, and exhaust. I received my 2.8" pulley two days late which would have made this disaster worse if it had been on time. The 2.8" is still sitting in the box needless to say.
I blew the headgasket with only GM Stage 2, intake, and exhaust. I received my 2.8" pulley two days late which would have made this disaster worse if it had been on time. The 2.8" is still sitting in the box needless to say.
is this under wty?
08-23-2006, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by PlaysWitCars
that supercharger is extremely clean.....how do you keep it clean
Oh, and the Warranty question... It is according to my standards, but my local Service Manager screwed me royally by telling the regional managers and higher that my car has to many mods, and they are freaking hosing me. When I contacted GM Direct they said he went above their head as well. I talked with some lady that's is in charge of all this crap, and set her straight as to the mods I have. I still haven't heard back, and I ran out of time to wait. Thus, I took matters into my own hands.
When it breaks, build it better!
08-23-2006, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
A little simple green every now an then goes a long way.
Oh, and the Warranty question... It is according to my standards, but my local Service Manager screwed me royally by telling the regional managers and higher that my car has to many mods, and they are freaking hosing me. When I contacted GM Direct they said he went above their head as well. I talked with some lady that's is in charge of all this crap, and set her straight as to the mods I have. I still haven't heard back, and I ran out of time to wait. Thus, I took matters into my own hands.
When it breaks, build it better!
Oh, and the Warranty question... It is according to my standards, but my local Service Manager screwed me royally by telling the regional managers and higher that my car has to many mods, and they are freaking hosing me. When I contacted GM Direct they said he went above their head as well. I talked with some lady that's is in charge of all this crap, and set her straight as to the mods I have. I still haven't heard back, and I ran out of time to wait. Thus, I took matters into my own hands.
When it breaks, build it better!
It is amazing how dealers survive!
I mean for craps sake they do get paid for this work.....not like they do it for free....
I would think dealers would rather get the money for the work than pass it off as BS!
08-23-2006, 10:59 AM
#13
damn.... doesn't look like too horrible a job I've had most of that crap off my car already anyway... but with the testing I will be doing this weekend... I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't blow up before I have cash in hand for these parts.... by the way what was cost of studs and gasket.... those are pretty much the same ones I"m ordering.
08-23-2006, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
A little simple green every now an then goes a long way.
Oh, and the Warranty question... It is according to my standards, but my local Service Manager screwed me royally by telling the regional managers and higher that my car has to many mods, and they are freaking hosing me. When I contacted GM Direct they said he went above their head as well. I talked with some lady that's is in charge of all this crap, and set her straight as to the mods I have. I still haven't heard back, and I ran out of time to wait. Thus, I took matters into my own hands.
When it breaks, build it better!
Oh, and the Warranty question... It is according to my standards, but my local Service Manager screwed me royally by telling the regional managers and higher that my car has to many mods, and they are freaking hosing me. When I contacted GM Direct they said he went above their head as well. I talked with some lady that's is in charge of all this crap, and set her straight as to the mods I have. I still haven't heard back, and I ran out of time to wait. Thus, I took matters into my own hands.
When it breaks, build it better!
The best "legal way" to deal with a dealership is to put some of window writing stuff on your back window and have it say something like "Dealership name doesn't take care of customers any questions call ########." I did this to a Toyota dealership that screwed me, it turned enough heads that they fixed my car.
08-23-2006, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by toydriver00
The best "legal way" to deal with a dealership is to put some of window writing stuff on your back window and have it say something like "Dealership name doesn't take care of customers any questions call ########." I did this to a Toyota dealership that screwed me, it turned enough heads that they fixed my car.
08-23-2006, 09:44 PM
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I never had the PSI-FI kit on the car before as I thought it was a pretty shady kit.
The gasket was straight from Cometic and cost $87, and the studs were ordered through Lightning Performance and direct shipped from Golden Eagle for $109. These prices don't include shipping.
The job isn't too hard. I just got the head back today and it looks great. They had to disassemble the valvetrain to do the work properly. The only thing I have to do to the head is torque the Cam Bearing Cap bolts. The catch 22 here is that they need to be 10Nm or 7.4 lb/ft! Both torque wrenches I have don't go that low, so reassembly was halted this evening. Grrr... I hate waiting, but I don't want to overtorque bolts and break them!
The gasket was straight from Cometic and cost $87, and the studs were ordered through Lightning Performance and direct shipped from Golden Eagle for $109. These prices don't include shipping.
The job isn't too hard. I just got the head back today and it looks great. They had to disassemble the valvetrain to do the work properly. The only thing I have to do to the head is torque the Cam Bearing Cap bolts. The catch 22 here is that they need to be 10Nm or 7.4 lb/ft! Both torque wrenches I have don't go that low, so reassembly was halted this evening. Grrr... I hate waiting, but I don't want to overtorque bolts and break them!
08-23-2006, 10:18 PM
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I have no idea what the limit of the stock studs are. They are "torque to yield" so they have to be replaced when changing the gasket out. I didn't go ahead and replace the pistons because I'm still unsure about keeping the car. I love and I hate it all at the same time.
Install note: Don't even try to slightly tighten the cam bearing cover bolts with a tiny 1/4 ratchet before torqing them. I just snapped a bolt. **** ME! I think these bolts are torque to yield too! Now I have to order some bolts. Grrr......
Install note: Don't even try to slightly tighten the cam bearing cover bolts with a tiny 1/4 ratchet before torqing them. I just snapped a bolt. **** ME! I think these bolts are torque to yield too! Now I have to order some bolts. Grrr......
08-23-2006, 11:25 PM
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Just out of curiousity...sounds dumb I'm sure...how do you exactly know when you have blown a headgasket? Never done it...fortunately and that is hitting 21.5psi...
08-24-2006, 07:06 AM
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I knew my headgasket was blown because my car was burning coolant badly. It was white smoke, water dripping from the exhaust, and the "low coolant" light came on instantly because the bottle went empty instantly. It smells horrible too.
08-25-2006, 12:01 AM
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All right, I have the resurfaced head and new gasket installed, and the new studs torqued to spec. Now the million dollar question of the night. How do I ensure the timing chain, crank pulley, and cams are all back to their perspective places for the right timing. I have marks that I made one the cams like the build book says. I also marked the cam gear and chain, but those marks rubbed off for the most part wit my damn hands all over everything.
1. I have the crank pulley at TDC like it's supposed to be
2. I'm having a rough time getting the chain over the cam gears. (I think I need to place the chain on the gears, ans then toque the bolts in place to get it on)
3. I'm trying to line up my marks on the cams, but how do I perfectly ensure the timing is spot on? I think I may need a to get my buddy to hold the crank in place while I work on the cam timing up top. Also, if my chain marks and cam gear marks don't line up is that a problem as long as the crank is a TDC and my timing marks on the cams are right?
Please help! I'm tired and I quit for the evening before I break something. Patience is key in this situation.
1. I have the crank pulley at TDC like it's supposed to be
2. I'm having a rough time getting the chain over the cam gears. (I think I need to place the chain on the gears, ans then toque the bolts in place to get it on)
3. I'm trying to line up my marks on the cams, but how do I perfectly ensure the timing is spot on? I think I may need a to get my buddy to hold the crank in place while I work on the cam timing up top. Also, if my chain marks and cam gear marks don't line up is that a problem as long as the crank is a TDC and my timing marks on the cams are right?
Please help! I'm tired and I quit for the evening before I break something. Patience is key in this situation.
08-25-2006, 08:02 AM
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