Driver1

Hi guys,

82,000 miles on my 2006 SS now. I have been lurking here for a few years and I thought it would be time to share some of my experiences with all of you.
First off, I have had no major problems with my SS at all. I used to drive my car for work and at the time averaged 35,000 miles every year driving in the city of detroit. Potholes are bad here and the cobalt definately does not like them. But, after 82,000 miles and 4 years my wheels are still straight! I drive my car all year long. I deal with deep snow, ice, heavy rain, and dense fog here in the Detroit area. I kept the Pirelli Rosso's on until this spring. I was able to drive everywhere on them except uphill from a dead stop. I switched to Eagle GT's this last season and they go through snow very good. Even uphill from a dead stop! On dry asphalt the eagles feel grippier and their deeper treads seem to last longer. But, they are not as predictable when driving very hard. And they are ugly. The Pirellis look way better!

It seems that whatever front rotors I buy warp or get hard spots prematurely. I seem to get about 10,000 miles from my rotors before I feel them start to pulse or flop. At $100 each this is pissing me off.

I still average 28mpg. That makes me happier. I have the steering shaft rattle and have had it for a couple, few, years. It happens at speeds under 25 mph during any little bump and I hate it. But, the steering is still very tight with absolutely no play between the steering wheel and the tires. I would like to fix it myself but I do not know how to.

The paint has chipped on every wheel in multiple places. They look bad but are amazingly straight. Amazing because I live in Detroit, aka pothole central

I have never maxed out my ss, but have been to the top of 4th. 133 on the gps, 145 on the speedo. Go figure. That means I really only have about 75,000 miles on the car. lol

I have had the engine cut off during really hard accelleration 5 times since I bought the car. I was looking for the fix earlier but I couldn't find the thread. I could use some help finding the thread. If it happens to you, I have found that if you just pull over, turn off the ignition, turn the ignition on and off like 5 or 6 times without turning the engine over, then restart the car, it will fire right back up.

My Driver's seat is not as soft as it started out life but that is to be expected. Not like the seat was cushy to begin with.

I have definate issues in cool damp weather. Almost like clockwork when there is cold drizzle and fog my drivers door latch just stops working. One of two things happen. either the door will not close, or it will not open once closed. The latch that retruns to the handle(s) sticks.

I also have electrical problems during cold damp conditions. Odd things happen. Mostly to buttons on the steering wheel. The volume minus button sometimes gets a mind of its own. The cruise control turns on but will not engage. The indicator in the dash that reads "cruise engaged" will barely flicker instead of the 2 or 3 second timeout. And no cruise.

Both of the above problems only affect me on or two times each year. They are both "ghost" problems that I can never seem to time to happen in front of a service tech.

had the idle bounce too. nothing ever died so i just got over it.

I had to replace both rear calipers this summer with the first rear rotors and pads replacement. They were both leaking brake fluid at the parking brake lever.

I replaced the air filter last winter with a K&N stock replacement. That job sucked. A fender to change an air filter...c'mon GM wtf! Replaced it when I lost my first fog light bulb. So I was under there anyway. BTW good luck finding a stock replacement air filter anywhere.

I am planning to do a quick tune up this week. My first one. Basically I'm changing the plugs, fuel filter, 2 more front rotors. That's it really.

I'm wondering if I should have my valve clearences checked, and possibly clean or replace my injectors.

That is about all I have. after a quick re-read it sounds like I have had tons of problems. but honestly it has not been too bad. still love my cobalt. i would love to get the steering rattle fixed and the stall on accelleration fixed.

Let me know what you guys think of my write up and what you think i should do

mike

G11

iTrader: (11)

if you need injectors i have a set for 30 shipped...

as far as the car cutting out on you...did it rain before you drove the car? if so it may be that you sucked up water into your intake and thats what caused it

as far as the air filter that **** was easy...you don't need to pull the fender you can pull the headlight and the bracket for the headlight and it comes right out

Phyrric

I've noticed that if you are already cruising, and accelerate with the pedal instead of the steering wheel, it won't go back into cruise next time you try to hit "Set" or "resume" you just have to click the cruise button off then on again and it will work

Driver1

Cuts out during dry conditions during hard accelleration, very hard.
Cruise just does not engage at all. Usually for one day, then works fine for another 6 months.

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Mike, nice post and welcome to CSS. I also live(d) in the Detroit area!

I have had the same issue as you with the car shutting off during hard pulls. I believe it has to do with the throttle body or a sensor on it. I've had to happen to me once on the track, and another time on the street.

Keep up on maintenance and the car will treat you great for years to come

Nate

troyss

You took off your fender to replace your filter?

G11

iTrader: (11)

oh ok i getcha! and with the cruise not workin i only had that problem when i had gm stage 2

Driver1

Wheel well and front air dam...had to.

G11

iTrader: (11)

thats crazy! like i said inmy post just take the headlight and the bracket out and you will find it right there

Littlegoose

I've had this problem too, damn it's a pain in the ass when it's raining out and you can't shut the door. In for the fix.

Driver1

I think GM used nylon in the latch. nylon likes to absorb water and swell up. Thus our problem. I have not done any fix. I just learned not to pull the handles further than it takes to open the door. they don't stick as much if they aren't pulled all the way. Dunno

Driver1

What year is your SS? My air filter comes out the bottom of the housing up against the black plastic shield under the bumper behind the drivers side fog lamp. No way i could get it from the headlight area. It's way too high.

ecot3c inside

iTrader: (11)

::facepalm::

06'Yellow SS/SC

iTrader: (2)

On the stock airbox I doubt it was water. Also the headlight bracket...just go for the black triangular piece of plastic under the fender. There's like 6 little screws that hold it on. Fold that back and BAM. Some people pull the rim. I didn't. I replaced my stock intake with my current injen like this.

OP: good write, glad to read. 32k on my 06. Goin strong as ever. Talked to a guy with 200k. No engine replacement or anything large. I was suprised.

Driver1

200...wow

The air filter is the least of my problems and I'm not concerned about it.

I have bigger problems to address

Need some help on the steering rattle.

Need some help on the door sticking.

Need a final fix on the hard stall.

Need tune-up guidance (injectors or not)

Need advice on better rotors. I have been buying "premium" replacements cost $130ish.

How did we get caught up on Air fiters anyway guys?

goldenfoot05

Have you tried different pads? They are not all created equal! I went through my stock pads without warping my rotors and then went with the cheap autozone pads and in less than a month and I had warpage and not to mention squealing and squeaking. I will be spending a little more on some decent pads soon!
For your cruise and other random electrical issues. Look at your in-car fuse panel. Look for water trails or spots. If you dont see any disconnect your battery and unclip the wire packs connecting to the fuse panel and look at the pins and the connector for water or evidence of water. If you see any evidence of water you may need a new fuse panel its actually the BCM and you will want to check your sunroof drain holes for blockage. Dont know how the water gets from the sun roof to there but it did on mine. Good luck!

Driver1

That's crazy! From the sunroof to the electrics, wow.
I'll check the fuse box. Since the problem is intermintant do you think using dielectric silicone to seal the connections might be a cheaper fix that will still work?
I am currently running raybestos premium front pads and cheap autozone ceramic rears. When I bought the rears I forgot ceramic pads are noisy, so I get a little squeal every now and then. Keep in mind that the best functioning brake pads are noisy Goldenfoot. But who wants a squeaky car, right?

goldenfoot05

I dont know if dielectric will help it after the fact. Wouldnt hurt to try. It would at least protect it from any possible problems in the future. But I dont think the water on the connectors is the problem it gets to the circuit board on the inside and ruins that.
Ya noise isnt as much an issue as rotor warpage.

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

Carbotech's cheapest pads tend to be easy on rotors even in national level auto-x cars so they should be easy on them on the street. Of course they're like 170 bucks a set for pads, pads that have great stopping power and last hella long while not eating rotors.

Also have you been properly beding your brakes after you replace them?

ralliartist

fixed!!!!!

goldenfoot05

beding? I dont think you mean bleeding because you dont need to bleed brakes for a pad change. Do you mean break in?

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

I meant bedding dammit, yeah you should bleed your brakes once a year too. Brake Bedding Instructions for bedding in your brakes

eddi

For the steering shakes below 30mph it's the steerig gear, gm put out a recall on this a month ago, it's supposed to be something to do with the electronic steering positioning sensor check the dealer it's a recall so it's a free fix

Driver1

I always thought of bedding as putting brakes through a few different "heat cycles". AKA once around the block, light braking low speeds, to work, light braking moderate speeds, down the highway, braking for short periods at speed. That is how i break in my rotors. I might be doing it wrong. May be my problem??

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, read the link, thats the right way.