About to join the Ranks of Stage 2
#26
Such as, the fact that the Supercharger has to be removed for the pulley to be taken off because it is pressed on, verify they have the tool to remove the pulley, and let them know that according to GM it should only take 1.5 hrs for the install. Then make them aware of what you are willing to pay for. When I went to the service department, I let them know all of this and then told them that I would be wiling to pay as much as 3 Hrs of labor; they only charged me 2 Hrs of labor. So the total cost for my Stage II kit was $560.95 for the Kit (That’s with shipping), $184.44 for labor, which comes to a total of: $745.39. That’s $4.61 less then the list price of the Stage II kit alone.
As one member said, performance shops are able to do it quicker because it is more common work for them, but you are going to pay more for the dealer to do it and maintain your warranty coverage.
#28
As far as the labor costs, if you go by warranty time, its 0.8 hours just to replace the inectors, then 0.5 to re-flash. So thats 1.3 for stage1. If you have to remove the blower, install a new pulley, and reroute the new belt, warranty time is 0.4 to R&R the blower, pulley time is up to the shop as GM does not specify a rate. Add in 0.2 for the belt, and you have 2 hours plus whatever it takes to do the pulley. 2-3 hours is very fair for install. I don't know where people see that they should only charge 1.5 hours for stage 2. That is unfair to the tech, if nothing else.
As one member said, performance shops are able to do it quicker because it is more common work for them, but you are going to pay more for the dealer to do it and maintain your warranty coverage.
As one member said, performance shops are able to do it quicker because it is more common work for them, but you are going to pay more for the dealer to do it and maintain your warranty coverage.
#32
Depends if I was at the track or not lol. I'm getting about 25-27 mpg avg. I don't have to drive city much and the main road I'm always on is 55mph speed limit. Back and forth to work mainly and through a small town.
#33
Since I have installed my GMPP Cat-Back I have noticed better gas mileage, even the last few days after I got my Stage II kit installed, it has been pretty good. I filled up on Monday, I would have expected by the end of the week to be at half tank, but since then I have gone WOT, I say about 4 or 5 times, and believe it or not I have a little less then three quarters of a tank left. So if this is any indication at how my gas mileage will be, I am betting once my lead foot becomes a little lighter I should see some really decent numbers.
I just checked my car, and lead foot and all (You know I gotta enjoy that stage II) the display reads 24.1 MPG.
I just checked my car, and lead foot and all (You know I gotta enjoy that stage II) the display reads 24.1 MPG.
Last edited by KindredX; 03-29-2007 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#34
ive been looking at the crateengine page for the psaat 3 hours and still debating wether to click pay or not
reminds me too, i cant get the stupid cruise control to work, i must be an idiot
#35
yea im getting about 24 right now stock with a moderate heavy foot.. its really up to the driver but you should get around the same as what you said.. 17 though, hes throwing money out the window
ive been looking at the crateengine page for the psaat 3 hours and still debating wether to click pay or not
reminds me too, i cant get the stupid cruise control to work, i must be an idiot
ive been looking at the crateengine page for the psaat 3 hours and still debating wether to click pay or not
reminds me too, i cant get the stupid cruise control to work, i must be an idiot
You know you want to.
#37
For me it happened when I was shifting through the gears too quick, it confused the clutch pedal sensor into thinking it was failing, so it shut off the ability to turn on cruise.
There is also a TSB out for the switch itself failing causing this problem.
#38
This is probably because of a thrown hidden code. If you pull the battery it will go away, or you can have somewhere clear the code.
For me it happened when I was shifting through the gears too quick, it confused the clutch pedal sensor into thinking it was failing, so it shut off the ability to turn on cruise.
There is also a TSB out for the switch itself failing causing this problem.
For me it happened when I was shifting through the gears too quick, it confused the clutch pedal sensor into thinking it was failing, so it shut off the ability to turn on cruise.
There is also a TSB out for the switch itself failing causing this problem.
#40
OK, guys, got my Injen installed. Has anyone ever installed an intake without 1) lifting the car, 2) Taking the bumper off, or 3)Taking the driver side front wheel off. Cause I can say that I have, actually I took the wheel well plastic shroud off, it's only a few screws, and some plastic plugs. Then you can take the intake hose off, and remove the 3 nuts that hold the stock air box. Then it was easy to slide it out from under the car.
Johnboy12358 - You were not kidding when you said I would love the way it sounds! Damn.....
Johnboy12358 - You were not kidding when you said I would love the way it sounds! Damn.....
#42
Here is something else I am trying to get confirmation on, I have a 2.8 Pulley, now that I have the Stage II installed, this pulley fits that hub. But, I seem to get mixed feelings from folks here on CobaltSS and a few other places. If I were to install the 2.8 Pulley, what is the worst that would/could happen, do my current mods support the pulley size? I have received some suggestions of installing a DP and Header, then I should be OK with the Stage II injectors. I have read others say that it should work fine with the Stage II Injectors, with no other mods. Someone else suggested I upgrade to 60lbs injectors. Input... anyone?
#43
This exactly what I was experiencing.
More than likely all you need to do is get the code cleared out. Pull the negative cable on the battery for 30 minutes if you want to do it yourself. You could also have a place like advance auto parts or the dealership do it for you.
I don't know why GM chose not to turn the light on for this. It took me weeks to figure out what the hell my car was doing.
#44
I personally wont go to a 2.8 on the stage two injectors or tune. Lowest I would go would be 2.9, and thats with a wideband gauge. I think the stage 3 pulley is a safe bet (its ~3.0")
Kindred: that whine is awesome isnt it? Talk about adding weight to your lead foot
Kindred: that whine is awesome isnt it? Talk about adding weight to your lead foot
#45
TSB = Technical Service Bulletin.
This exactly what I was experiencing.
More than likely all you need to do is get the code cleared out. Pull the negative cable on the battery for 30 minutes if you want to do it yourself. You could also have a place like advance auto parts or the dealership do it for you.
I don't know why GM chose not to turn the light on for this. It took me weeks to figure out what the hell my car was doing.
This exactly what I was experiencing.
More than likely all you need to do is get the code cleared out. Pull the negative cable on the battery for 30 minutes if you want to do it yourself. You could also have a place like advance auto parts or the dealership do it for you.
I don't know why GM chose not to turn the light on for this. It took me weeks to figure out what the hell my car was doing.
#46
Well, I tested the 2.8 pulley tonight, just to see what would happen. Earlier, I purchased an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, hooked it up, and ran it with the Stage II pulley, things looked good and I got a baseline for what I needed, next I swapped pulley's and put the 2.8 on. I saw pretty much the same Air/Fuel Ratios, I took it easy, for about 1 hr, before coming back home though, I did open her up, I saw about 17.5 - 18 PSI boost, and the pull was crazy, not to mention the whine. I have not gotten any error codes and the car seems to run fine. However, I am thinking of taking it off and going back to the Stage II Pulley.
#48
Did you use a wideband, or run that gauge off of the stock narrowband sensor? If you did it off the narrowband, you werent getting an accurate reading. I think you should go back to stock until you can get a true wideband (AEM or Innovate gauge for example)
#49
I ran the gauge off of the stock narrowband sensor. Yeah, I think that's what I am going to do, go back to the Stage II Pulley.
Thanks for the help Johnboy12358.
I forgot I said I would post some pics of my Cat Back (Well in this case at least the Tip), but I will accompany with pics of my Injen.
New Cat-Back (Tip anyway)
Thanks for the help Johnboy12358.
I forgot I said I would post some pics of my Cat Back (Well in this case at least the Tip), but I will accompany with pics of my Injen.
New Cat-Back (Tip anyway)
Last edited by KindredX; 03-30-2007 at 11:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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