i was bored today and decided to do the airbox mod thing with the cheap filter instead of buying that damn $60 overpriced k&n filter. this = $24.99 filter and 1 hour work.

took about 1 hour, mostly to get the stuff disconnected and hooked back up. i found a filter that will actually fit in the airbox nicely enough so you can put the bottom of it back on as well, if you're worried about that. i left mine off because it sounds so much better with the bottom off. the butt dyno says that it made a huge difference. before when you romp the gas it seemed to lag a bit from where it sucked the air out of the airbox, then started flowing properly. now when you hit the gas the wheels just start spinning instantly in first, some of second. last night i was racing one of those early model 4.6 gt mustangs and the road was damp from rain earlier in the day. started from a roll in second around 40mph, when i hit third my wheels broke loose and i had to let up a little to let them catch.

since it never did this before, i'm guessing it's because that really short lag we got that used to be there is not now. i can't wait to get on the dry road and run a few cars.

the best thing of all it sounds wicked. down in my parent's place in kentucky, i drove around the mall i was getting on it and some dude stopped and asked me what kind of motor i had in it. i told him it was an electric hybrid motor and it runs 14's on the track and still gets 70mpg lol... he looked at me all stupid and said with a horrible hillbilly accent "they is puttin' dem electric motoars in cars nowadays?"


while waiting for all these cai's to come out, i would suggest you guys give this a shot, it's cheap, safe and you can definitely tell a difference.

 

I say don't bother getting a cai especiallyif you are thinking of doing a stage upgrade from gm. I went a step further than you and cut the filter box below the senor , shaved the tube and popped on the filter. I have a cai. I am waiting till a stage 2 comes out that will probably have a cai in it.

 

i think i am holding off as well. did you feel as much of a performance as i was talking about?

i didn't think it would be anything like what it actually did. i just figured it would be loud.

 

could you guys explain a little better in depth about this mod?? are you talking about removing the airbox and attaching a cheap (autozone) cone filter on the end of it??? the mod sounds like a great idea but for some reason my SS/SC is totally stock so far and i'm not confident enough yet to make any mods. i haven't even physically located my airbox yet either. but anyways, if this is an easy upgrade i'm all for it....no CEL light yet...i ask b/c yo would think it would run a little more leaner.

 

won't run lean, just reset your ecu befor eyou drive it so it finds the new fuel curve. you should reset the ecu after any major upgrade anyways.

i put on a universal specter filter from pep boys cause it was only $24.99 and that's the one the other dude used in the "how to"

also for you guys afraid to leave the bottom of your cab off for the filter because of rain don't worry. i just drove almost 3 hours straight from my parents house back home in a continuous torrential downpour(the remainder of the hurricane passing through) in kentucky with no problems at all...

 

I am with the dude that wants to know more about this and how it actually happens. Also will it work the same way for the 2.2l

 

I too took the stock box and cut the box completely off. The only thing left is where the filter attaches to the stock box. Has made a hugh diff in performance, di any off you get a check engine light shortly after the mod. I did and after doing a sorft reset by disconnecting battery and then reconnecting after 15 min, then let car idle for 5 minutes to remap air flow. Light has not come back on as of yet, just wondering if you had same problems. Also, don't you love the sound out of the supercharger when you wind up after this mod. A pic is now posted of the mods I cme up with in the help area.

 

i didn't get any cel's. but i reset the ecu immediately afterwards of the install.

 

Yea I did the air box modd today at work and ****! I was shocked at the performance and sound improvement. The stock air filter is VERY restricting.

 

here's a short video of what it sounds like from the inside with the airbox mod. i was running about 40mph when i got on it.


http://www.ricermath.com/sspics/intake.mpg

 

I did it yesterday... Now I'm pissed off.

Why the hell didn't it come this way stock?!?!? Now it sounds MEAN! I luv it...

 

That sounds awesome

 

i wish i had an actual tape recorder so it didn't crackle though. that vid was taken with my digital still cam lol. i'll try to get an analog recording and mp3 it and upload it... maybe one during a run up like a 100 or so of just the sound

 

well i did the airbox mod and i love it!! what a difference in the response and overall performance.....and the SOUND!! now thats what i am talking about!! these 2.0s' are equipped with a S/C..it's about time we hear these b*tches whine and scream!! i followed selfinfliction's step by step instructions in (how to) and they couldn't have been any better...give my props to him, just be SURE to reset your cpu.. i was gonna do the k&n group purchase but couldn't wait....this intake mod makes me content for now...i'll save the money for that premium gas these SS's love to consume!! thanx again .net!!

 

Sounds really good, any problems with the CEL?

 

i never had any codes thrown

you shouldn't have any problems as long as you reset the computer before you drive it and your filter is on tight

it looks like everyone that is having problems did not reset the ecu after the install.

 

What is the correct way to reset the ecu?

 

I was wondering the same thing.

Can it be reset just by simply doing the battery disconnect and then letting it idle for a few minutes after reconnecting the battery? Or is there some other way to reset it.

 

Yea, alleycat, disconnect the battery for 15 min and then reconnect and let the car idle for like 5 min.

 

I thought so, wanted to be absolutely certain though. Thanks!

 

The most common practice is to disconnect the cable from the positive battery terminal for about 30 mins, then hook it back up and drive around normally.

Some people say it doesn't make any difference, but it can't hurt to do it anyway

 

everyone is putting out some great estimates lol 15 minutes, 30 minutes blah blah....


unhook the negative terminal on the battery, then go turn the ignition on/off a couple of times. that drains all the power from the system and you don't need to stand there with your thumb up your butt for 15-30 minutes. after you turn on the ignition a few times then hook the battery back up and you're good to go.

 

Heh, yea that would actually work better I guess, thanks Infliction

 

I tried this and no go. Should I drive it around and then do it ?

Other than the CEL the BUTT DYNO says WOW ! The stock set up is VERY restrictive !

-Erik-

 

find out what code it's throwing. then we can help you troubleshoot it