Any S20G LSJ's Out There?
#1
Any S20G LSJ's Out There?
Trying to get a count for how many of us still run, or at one point ran this turbo? Also, please share why you switched to another turbo (if applicable), any issues you ran into (and solutions), highest psi you saw, or any fun stories with that turbo! And.....racecar!
#3
I'm just waiting for c130 to post here, and I know james had one on his lnf, but he no longer posts here. I remember though, that there was a bunch of people that used this turbo back in the day.
#6
wow...I remember TTR selling them like three years ago or so for like 650 plus shipping. IDK why they still call them old school. I was always under the impression that it's because they're journal bearing, but I've never thought of this as old school technology. If anything, it makes rebuilding them way cheaper than a ball bearing.
#7
Joined: 05-15-11
Posts: 27,413
Likes: 584
From: Livonia, MI
There are a few things i can think of off the top of my head.
Is the wheel billet?
Is it twin scroll?
I know its not bb.
There are just bigger and better things now, good for a stock motor lsj imo.
Is the wheel billet?
Is it twin scroll?
I know its not bb.
There are just bigger and better things now, good for a stock motor lsj imo.
#8
true, though I can't answer honestly about the other points you brought up. But imo it's a great starter turbo for people that have no experience with forced induction. Quick spool, low maintenance, and good hp range.
Anywho, the little time I've had to play with mine has been enjoyable. The only issue I've had directly related to the turbo was just oil blowing past the seals. But that's a pretty common issue in general with LSJ-T's. I just slapped on a vent filter on the oil cap and it went away; although, I will modify the valve cover and use a proper catch can for the new block.
Anywho, the little time I've had to play with mine has been enjoyable. The only issue I've had directly related to the turbo was just oil blowing past the seals. But that's a pretty common issue in general with LSJ-T's. I just slapped on a vent filter on the oil cap and it went away; although, I will modify the valve cover and use a proper catch can for the new block.
#10
true, though I can't answer honestly about the other points you brought up. But imo it's a great starter turbo for people that have no experience with forced induction. Quick spool, low maintenance, and good hp range.
Anywho, the little time I've had to play with mine has been enjoyable. The only issue I've had directly related to the turbo was just oil blowing past the seals. But that's a pretty common issue in general with LSJ-T's. I just slapped on a vent filter on the oil cap and it went away; although, I will modify the valve cover and use a proper catch can for the new block.
Anywho, the little time I've had to play with mine has been enjoyable. The only issue I've had directly related to the turbo was just oil blowing past the seals. But that's a pretty common issue in general with LSJ-T's. I just slapped on a vent filter on the oil cap and it went away; although, I will modify the valve cover and use a proper catch can for the new block.
#11
pretty much. That pcv port on the back of the valve cover sucks donkey *****. You can barely fit a coffee stirrer in that thing. It has more to do with the excessive crankcase pressure in the block than the turbo seals itself.
#13
574, here's my thread about that issue: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/forc...-turbo-257828/
#15
ive had one, pretty happy with it, no plans to change yet. I want to see what it can do with my built motor once i finish it. Most boost i've seen is 30psi, but not on purpose. But I shouldn't post because i cant get my car to run ATM
and instead of an oil cap, i have one of these, with a 90 degree elbow, which runs to my catch can, that solved my smoking issue.
and instead of an oil cap, i have one of these, with a 90 degree elbow, which runs to my catch can, that solved my smoking issue.
Last edited by Cobalt_SSTuner; 07-19-2013 at 12:56 AM.
#16
sorry just saw this. I dont get on here as much. Been very busy.
I am not switching to another turbo for the foreseeable future. Its a great turbo and easy to rebuild.
__________________________________________________ ______________________
Issues I ran into:
I rebuilt the turbo on my own for 100 bucks. There are tutorials online at DSM forums. It was easy and fun.
I smoked out the tailpipe for the first 3000 miles. It cleared up on its own, guessing the seals just needed to broke in. I went ahead just recently and installed a -4 AN to M12x1.5 1.5mm Oil Restrictor and still have no issues.
Hahns manifold cracked twice after rewelding it. Hahn has a new manifold out that I am working with him on. Coming soon, I will post pics. Its a new shape/design.
The oil exit on the hahn kit is a -8AN 1/2" drain, some may think this is too small but on a Mitsubishi turbo its fine. This should be upgraded to at least a -10AN and 5/8" minimum for most journal bearing turbos if you are going to go bigger than a 20g, otherwise its not a big deal. -8AN is plenty big when you run it on a 20g in conjunction with the oil restrictor listed above.
PCV system needs to have a catch and ran from the back of the VC to a vac source in the turbo intake is best. Dont use the ebay catch cans, they work but leak like a sieve. I am trashing my ebay catch can for a Moroso later on.
__________________________________________________ ___________________
Highes PSI I saw: (these numbers were on e85 and in 100 degree heat)
28psi made 465 whp and 435 wtq --- Loses efficiency
27psi made 472 whp and 430 wtq --- this is the most efficient PSI with my mods (ported head, sheetmetal intake, blah blah, and the other 100 things I changed on my car) track use only for me, requires a bigger fuel pump than stock on E85
24psi made 440 whp and 400 wtq. This is my DD setting and spins tires through first three gears every time I enter the highway. This is my happy place.
20-22psi made 400-420 whp and 400 wtq. This was on a stock fuel system with only 80lb injectors and e85.
15psi made 338 whp and 300 wtq. Boosting off wastegate spring alone. This is baby boosting.
__________________________________________________ ______________________
Fun stories:
I daily drive this car, it rides and drives like stock, its a fun car. I spank every evo and sti around here and my car club full of V8's wont race me because my dyno sheets alone scare them. Ask the guys at arkansas street machines about me on facebook. They will tell you about my car. The only two who took me was a supercharged SS Camaro and a newer supercharged 5.0 Mustang.
Mainly its getting old because my car attracts jerks, young kids with v6 Mustangs, ricers, and idiots alike. In all honesty it doesnt get the respect or recognition of the effort I put into it and I am burned out by the attitudes of people with these cars. Thinking about selling it.
I am not switching to another turbo for the foreseeable future. Its a great turbo and easy to rebuild.
__________________________________________________ ______________________
Issues I ran into:
I rebuilt the turbo on my own for 100 bucks. There are tutorials online at DSM forums. It was easy and fun.
I smoked out the tailpipe for the first 3000 miles. It cleared up on its own, guessing the seals just needed to broke in. I went ahead just recently and installed a -4 AN to M12x1.5 1.5mm Oil Restrictor and still have no issues.
Hahns manifold cracked twice after rewelding it. Hahn has a new manifold out that I am working with him on. Coming soon, I will post pics. Its a new shape/design.
The oil exit on the hahn kit is a -8AN 1/2" drain, some may think this is too small but on a Mitsubishi turbo its fine. This should be upgraded to at least a -10AN and 5/8" minimum for most journal bearing turbos if you are going to go bigger than a 20g, otherwise its not a big deal. -8AN is plenty big when you run it on a 20g in conjunction with the oil restrictor listed above.
PCV system needs to have a catch and ran from the back of the VC to a vac source in the turbo intake is best. Dont use the ebay catch cans, they work but leak like a sieve. I am trashing my ebay catch can for a Moroso later on.
__________________________________________________ ___________________
Highes PSI I saw: (these numbers were on e85 and in 100 degree heat)
28psi made 465 whp and 435 wtq --- Loses efficiency
27psi made 472 whp and 430 wtq --- this is the most efficient PSI with my mods (ported head, sheetmetal intake, blah blah, and the other 100 things I changed on my car) track use only for me, requires a bigger fuel pump than stock on E85
24psi made 440 whp and 400 wtq. This is my DD setting and spins tires through first three gears every time I enter the highway. This is my happy place.
20-22psi made 400-420 whp and 400 wtq. This was on a stock fuel system with only 80lb injectors and e85.
15psi made 338 whp and 300 wtq. Boosting off wastegate spring alone. This is baby boosting.
__________________________________________________ ______________________
Fun stories:
I daily drive this car, it rides and drives like stock, its a fun car. I spank every evo and sti around here and my car club full of V8's wont race me because my dyno sheets alone scare them. Ask the guys at arkansas street machines about me on facebook. They will tell you about my car. The only two who took me was a supercharged SS Camaro and a newer supercharged 5.0 Mustang.
Mainly its getting old because my car attracts jerks, young kids with v6 Mustangs, ricers, and idiots alike. In all honesty it doesnt get the respect or recognition of the effort I put into it and I am burned out by the attitudes of people with these cars. Thinking about selling it.
Last edited by c130aviator; 08-21-2013 at 11:12 PM.
#20
#22
Some one.with more know how than i have can proly shed some light in here but the 100 shot definitely wakes the lsj up. Holy ****.
3rd gear at 3k u can hit it and break the tires loose. Not full on spin but u hear it
3rd gear at 3k u can hit it and break the tires loose. Not full on spin but u hear it
#23
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